JimX

Yeah, I definitely think it's a "Nismo Type M". Which may as well be called a "Nismo GTS-t". But that doesn't mean that the Nissan ones aren't real GTS't's either

Sounds like the thrust alignment is out. Get a 4 wheel alignment done at a reputable tyre place with laser beams rather than string. Getting a little sideways in a powerful RWD car is normal, so you may find it does it to a lesser extent after the alignment. But it shouldn't be anything too drastic, especially if you're going in a straight line.

There are 2 types of series 1 bar, the bigger one is often referred to as the "Type M" bar, or merely the "front spoiler" bar. It was a factory option. Type M just means "GTS-t" for the R33. It is confusing because it didn't mean the same thing for the R32, and then there were spanners thrown into the works with the likes of the Nismo Type M linked above.

Hmm, you know what? This seems to be the car that HOTR33 was going on about in another thread. The front bar and spoiler match what he was describing, and there is probably a high-flowed ball bearing turbo in that car too.

I know that it's not plug & play, where did you get the impression that I thought it was? For what it is, it's a dirt cheap performance addon that doesn't need re-tuning for every single thing that you do to the car. I'm not even sure that you will need the Uni-chip re-done for every minor mod you do to the car, are you sure that it's not just your mechanic trying to wring more dollars out of you? $550 is a hell of a lot of cash to put up for every upgrade you do, no matter how minor.

Why's that? I got an S-AFC tuned last year (installed myself) for $150. A few months ago I got a new FMIC and plenum installed, and I'm running off the same S-AFC tune. While not perfect, it's still more than adequate and my mechanic said that it wouldn't be worth re-tuning it for these mods. He said that once the Bosch fuel pump goes in, it'll be time to re-tune it.

Turbomad, I know that it doesn't matter if the can is visible if it's legal, but if it only has one inlet and no outlet other than the breather, I don't want it to be visible. Steve, moving the existing breather was something else I contemplated, but I thought I'd rather have something to catch the oil rather than spread it evenly around the interior of my engine bay. Although, I've done around 15000km with that setup and I've never cleaned the engine bay and it doesn't look too filthy, so maybe I don't need the can just yet.

Well, that's the problem. If they pop the bonnet, that's the first thing they're gonna see. If I can have an unobtrusive can somewhere not immediately visible, it would be a load off my mind.

Here is a picture of my current oil catch can. As you can see, I wouldn't mind improving it somewhat

Usually this noise from the location you said (left side) is from the Electronic Boost Controller. Have you got one fitted? If the noise isn't in perfect timing, eg, tick.. tick.. tick.. tick......... tick.. tick.. tick....... tick.. etc, then that's also a good sign it's the EBC because any valve train noise should be in perfect sync with the engine rpm. The EBC will make this noise when the ignition is on even if the engine isn't running but you haven't specified if your ignition was on when you heard the noise with the engine off.

On a related note, where's a good place to get touch-up brushes? I was thinking a hobby shop, but are these brushes ok to use with 2pack paint?

A sticky horn relay maybe? Or dodgy horn button contacts? A wire earthed out somewhere? A bodgily-wired up alarm system? (assuming it's wired into the horn - most aren't) A process of elimination is in order. I would start by testing the horn button, ie, test it with soft and hard presses to see if the horn button "feel" is consistent. If that's ok, then replace the relay. They're cheap enough to not bother testing, because you might test it for 5 minutes straight and all is fine, but in 2 days the fault might recur. If those both check out and it still happens then you'll have to search for a ground somewhere in the circuit. This will be a bitch to do unless it's near the button, horn, or relay. If these are all fine and your alarm isn't wired into the horn then sell the car, coz it's possessed!

Lowlux, it took me awhile to find because searching on "catch can" or "separator" didn't turn anything useful up. But it seems to be the "Aluminium breather tank", with part number VPW-36108. Is this what you have? The price is also $140, not $90 At that price (plus freight) I think I might tend towards a Cusco or custom job.

I am just wondering what are the consequences of not changing the coolant other than not being good for the water pump? I've heard one tale that old coolant is actually BETTER for your engine than new coolant, because it's already saturated with oxidised metal particles from the water galleries, which makes it harder to have further effect on the internals. The reason I ask is the car's coming up to its 100k km service. The timing belt has already been replaced but the coolant is getting a bit old, so I was thinking of just letting it stay that way until the water pump dies, and then put some good stuff in with the new pump.

As I already said, no it's not. You may see some improvement as I did, but also as with me and most other people it won't cure it. Set both settings to10% and see how you go.

Piston slap is when the pistons rattle around in the cylinders due to being a tad too small. There was another thread here somewhere where someone was talking of their forgies being "noisy" when cold because they expand more with heat, or something. If you have Wiseco forged pistons and it's completely normal when cold then they're the kind that I think I'll be after at rebuild time

Rubber bushes from Nissan (I guess). Urethane bushes from Whiteline. Not sure on prices, ring them up.

It doesn't usually work very well. There are 2 options I forget, my mechanic set them both to 10%. It improved slightly, but not all that much. Changing your decelaration habits is the best way to stop it happening. Edit: I think the setting is "Dec. Air" and has Lo and Hi settings or something.

I just have to ask - What's an intensive purpose?

Don't forgies get piston slap when cold due to different heat expansion characteristics?

Powder coat is a lot tougher than 2pac, something to consider since wheels will get abused a lot more than your panels. ie, gutter scrapes, replacing tyres and wheel weights, even just taking them off and scratching them with the wheel brace.

Not sure about "cheap", but I got a Skyline badge from Nissan Australia for $40. It took 6 weeks to arrive from Japan! Sucks about that damage/alam situation Bleach1, I guess it's a good idea for everyone to test their car's security system.

Airzone, the velour interior on series 1 R33's is standard. It was changed to cloth on series 2 to help cut costs for an increased amount of standard extras.

Using that logic, Race Brakes aren't worth buying anything from either

Nengun. There's not much info there, send him an email.