JimX

Autosol.

I am going to speak to my mechanic about this tomorrow, but thought I would ask you guys about it too. I'm considering buying a water cooled turbo (Garrett), but I was wondering if I would have any hassles installing it onto an RB25 engine. Does anyone know of the extra parts and labour costs I would be up for? Also, since they are sleeve bearing turbos, does that mean it needs the water cooling to last as long as a ball bearing, or that it will end up lasting longer than a ball bearing that isn't water cooled? Lastly, can someone please translate this for me? I don't understand the numbers at all, I just need to know if it's suitable for an RB25 and at roughly what revs it makes full boost. Compressor: 0.6AR POLISHED compressor housing with rare bolt type discharge flange. "S" trim wheel, 1.904" (48.4mm) inducer, 2.75" (69.9mm) major. Turbine: 0.84AR-split pulse-T3 style turbine housing with custom 6 stud (8 x 1.25 metric) discharge flange, grit blasted and painted in high temperature paint. "O" trim wheel, 2.922" (74.2 mm) major, 2.296" (58.3 mm) exducer. If someone can give me a brief explanation of what the AR and trim etc means, I would also appreciate that.

Thick oil does not mean better protection. You only need thicker oil if thinner stuff is getting excessively burnt due to worn rings.

The factory spec is 7.5W/30, but I've used both 10W-60 and 5W-30 synthetic with no problems at all. The 10W-60 is too thick though, and robs power from your engine with no real extra protection benefits. I would use the 10W-60 if the rings were a bit worn, but if not, then something thinner. Keep in mind that any oil designed for high revving 4cyl engines is also good for Skylines, even though it's 6cyl. The reason being it's a small 6cyl engine and revs quite high. The pistons in an RB25 are actually smaller than those in an SR20. A lot of people use 0W-40 with excellent results. Just whatever you get, stick to something semi or fully synthetic and you should be right. As for coolant, just a good brand that's designed for alloy engines. I've got some Nulon concentrated stuff ready to go in. Mix it with distilled water if it's not a pre-mix to make sure you don't get weird metals in your engine. For more detailed answers, take Ronin's advice and search

Get Philips or Osram. Both brands sell very good quality blue and white bulbs. Most of the other "blue" brands produce the wrong kind of blue (there are exceptions but I don't know of them). I am going to get some Philips white bulbs myself. They're only $80 for 4, but I am holding off until I get my tax refund. My insurance came in and it hurts Narva bulbs are over-powered to get their brightness and as such tend to fail early.

If anyone knows where to get one for $155 I would be interested too, because mine might be up for replacement soon.

My agreed value with Torque Underwriting stayed the same from last year to this year. When I went to Famous it increased $1000, up to the original purchase price. I'm guessing it will drop again next year, but if I do any further mods I may try to negotiate it up again a bit to compensate.

A wrecker replied to my Findapart request and said he had them for $20, so I replied and asked him to COD one to me. But he hasn't replied in over a week so I guess it's not coming. Oh well, his loss and my gain if I can get one new for $16

I've been running 14psi on a stock engine for almost a year now, with no problems. The stock engine can handle up to around 18psi easily, but the factory turbo can't. They tend to top out at around 12-14psi. I've got an aftermarket turbo though, I will speak with my mechanic when it goes in for a tune and find out what boost it'll safely run at.

Test the brake fluid? Surely you can just look at the colour. Or do you mean test the seals for leaks etc?

Ben, after using the RB74's for a few more days I like them even more. Now that the pads are truly run-in, the cold stopping power is awesome. I don't know what pads I had in there before, but I suspect they were just plain Nissan factory pads. I now just have to touch the brake pedal and the car will start to pull up quick. And they only get better from there when hot. It's hard to compare different pads between different cars, but I believe they are better than the Bendix Ultimates that I had in my Commodore. I can already tell that they have less dust than the Ultimates. My Ultimates would dust up after only 100km or so of driving and I've done around 200 so far on the RB74's with no visible dust on the wheel yet. The only thing I can't evaluate yet is the amount of disc wear they create. I think that DBA's 4000 series discs use a harder steel than normal so either way my disc wear should be acceptable when I upgrade.

350-400 is completely normal, I wouldn't worry about it. Unless that's only freeway driving.

How stupid is that woman? "I don't like that quote, get me a different one and I'll pay it"

Ah, good that it was a happy ending. I'd really hate for some scum of a council worker to do that sort of thing and do a runner, or just totally deny ever doing the damage (which would be easy to do with a front-end loader I would say). Apparently a LOT of bus drivers (both private and government) will deny hitting someone just to avoid the company having to pay up. Must be because of management telling them to do so, or imposing penalties on any drivers involved in an accident.

Sonic, surely you could sue the council for the cost of the repairs?

PuppaDuck, that story is funny because it's true! Well the first story is true, the second story as Majanal says, only happens in the movies. And even then in the movies doesn't the car thief get let off? (Gone in 60 seconds).

So it was YOUR GRANDFATHER that's been going around vandalising our cars!

I would think 13.3L is pretty good, considering my Commodore got around 16-17L and it had less power.

Ben, what temperature does your dot 5 boil at? There's an expensive dot 4 from Caltex that boils at over 300 degrees. I forget the exact name (it's in my garage atm but it's too cold to go out and look), but it's around half the price of yours. Race Brakes use and recommend it

Tell Pedders to shove their bananas up their collective arses. Yet another reason to hate their guts.

How would it make your car run richer? If anything I would have thought that better airflow=leaner running, but either way the AFM works out how much air is coming in and adjusts the mixture accordingly.

Yes, I think we've established that 200km per tank is really bad (but just for the record, I get 600km per tank on the highway)

It sounds like a dry joint to me, but could be anything to do with the power getting through the whole unit. If you can't find out what's wrong, maybe send it off to get fixed? There's a guy in Melbourne that repairs PowerFC's (Hills Motorsports know the details), he might also repairs S-AFC's.

I just saw this thread, and all I can say is what the farkin fark! 946 pages and still going?!

Jay95R33 that is really good mileage for an R33! I consider getting to 400 on mine to be very good mileage. If I've been a leadfoot or have been in a lot of traffic I'll get up to 50 k's less than that. 95GTST, your car already has a fuel pressure regulator, and it won't really affect your economy at all if faulty. Upgrading it will only help stop leaning out, ie, if anything it will make you use more fuel! Something else is wrong, as Jay says it's probably the O2 sensor. As for other things that will help your economy in general terms - thinner oil if your engine is in good enough condition, and higher tyre pressures (40psi or so).