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Everything posted by JimX
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A throttle body wider than the rest of your intake would only let more air in at WOT. A smaller throttle body can do the exact same job at less than WOT, just with the butterfly valve open slightly more. At WOT, if the rest of the intake is narrower you'll still be limited by the flow of the rest of the intake. On forced induction cars throttle bodies are less important than on NA cars. The plenum chamber itself holds a supply of pressurised air for the engine and the turbo/supercharger keeps it under pressure when engaged, whereas in an NA car the engine itself has to suck all the air through a small throttle body. ie it has to do all the work on the fly as opposed to having a ready supply of air right next to the inlets on the manifold. Putting a bigger turbo on but keeping the same throttle body on your car will do lots more for power than keeping the same turbo but putting a bigger TB on. There is a point whereby a bigger TB will help your power, but I suspect it's somewhere over 450hp. Sydneykid has said above that the standard intake is good for 450hp and I believe him
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I raced a modified VS Senator last night (well it sounded modified and had a huge exhaust). It was virtually neck and neck the whole way, but by the time we backed off I had started to very slightly pull ahead. Nothing to write home about, but I had 2 passengers and he had none! I would have thought that the V8's torque would have reeled me in but apparently not. Oh, and due to the really awful launch I did I decided I really need some pineapples. (that's not my excuse for not doing any better, because his launch was as bad as mine )
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Adrian_perth, that was my understanding too. However with my old FMIC, the plumbing was absolutely atrocious. The whole lot needed to be re-done because of right-angle bends, and the intercooler itself replaced because it was too small. I thought I could either run a new set of pipes up and along the top of the engine, or spend a little extra and get a front-facing plenum with less pipework. Doing the latter saved me a bit of dough on 2 extra pipe bends and maybe a metre of straight pipes, so the plenum cost was slightly compensated by needing less pipework. The front-facing plenum definitely gives me better throttle response, and also seems to bring boost on a little earlier. It can also compensate for lag created by a too-big intercooler because it reduces the volume of air in your intake tract.
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Hmm, that turbo's just a tad bigger than mine. The biggest difference between your car and mine is the ECU and the cam gear. I think the cam gear has to be the next mod for mine because I can't afford a new ECU
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Boost controllers do change emissions, but you still may be within the legal limits even with increased boost. If you are that worried then book your car in for a test at the RTA. It's not so much the boost controller itself that is illegal, but the potential increased emissions it creates. I think you should be ok though, a guy here (I forget his name) recently said that he had a gutted cat and it still passed the emissions test.
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What turbo have you got on there? Even 264rwhp from only 12psi is a very good figure.
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Thanks for the encouraging words Steve, I feel a bit better about it now. I might just leave it that way for a bit longer before getting back into it. Jeez, has this topic been done to death yet? I've been speaking to a few people about it, and there seems to be some disagreement as to under what circumstances fuel will ignite. My dad said that it could be done with the 12 volts circulating in the pump, until I told him that the pump was actually IN the petrol. That shut him up pretty good But what are the risks, say, if the positive terminal somehow earths out in the tank? IS 12 volts enough to make your car explode? I'm pretty sure I've done a better job than the factory wiring, because the factory wires weren't soldered to the tags and mine are. But since I've only just done it myself, I can't be as certain as the original setup, because it'd been that way for 8 years without explosion.
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I'm glad you said that. I'd never really thought about it much before, but I used to think that if you set the boost to higher than factory, it would get there faster. But after pulling my turbo off and having a look inside, it seems that the waste gate stays completely shut until the set boost is reached, and then it opens. That would mean it gets to a certain pressure level at the exact same time no matter what you set it to. It would just not go higher than the boost controller allows. This would explain why I don't hit "full boost" until 4500-5000rpm. I've got the turbo set to 1 bar, so I don't think it's as bad as I first though. If it were set to factory pressures, it would probably get to "full boost" at around 3500.
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If your clutch isn't slipping then there's no need to replace it. It really is one of those "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" type things.
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RB25 turbos can run higher boost on RB20's because of the smaller capacity. Series 1 RB25 turbos are usually ok for up to 14psi on an RB25 engine, so they should be ok for up to maybe 16psi on an RB20. If they are a straight bolt-on fit (I wouldn't know) then it should be a worthwhile upgrade if you can find one cheap enough.
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I would get the Hills plenum if I didn't already have another (home-made) one. As already said, it has the ability to use the factory idle control. The biggest advantage to the front-facing plenums is better throttle response. I wouldn't do it for outright power gains but if you can keep the total cost under a grand or so it would be worthwhile, because it makes the car feel better to drive as well as looking pretty neat in the engine bay. Another (small) bonus is it makes your plugs and coilpacks much easier to get at.
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I got the fittings from Earl's performance in Silverwater. I got referred there by Pirtek who had absolutely nothing I needed! However even Earl's didn't have a banjo connector that fit. He took the spring valve off at the top and put a regular connector on because it didn't seem essential. It was not preferable but by this stage I had to get the new pump in or be without a car. This means that the fuel will slowly drain back into the tank when the car isn't running, but I've experimented with it and it's not too bad. I ended up cutting the bracket because I thought that was the part that was catching, but apparently not. Also the pickup isn't as far down as I thought, I'm missing around the last 5 litres of the tank (started running out of fuel, filled up to 58 litres or so). At this stage I can't be bothered getting back in there and fixing it but I'll see what happens. I might try attaching a longer hose to the bottom of the pump at some stage, because I'm pretty sure I can see where the pickup is meant to go. (that's about ALL i can see in there!) I feel partly a sense of accomplishment and partly a sense of frustration. Over these past few days I've found that I'm a lot better at removing and replacing turbos
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Series 1 R33 GTS-t with manual box is 1360kg, give or take depending on optional stuff like ABS, sunroof, etc. Series 2's are 10kg more because of the air bag and rear strut brace (I guess). Autos are another 20kg heavier again. Non-turbo versions are 50kg lighter. That seems a lot, because I can only think of the following which saves weight: Brakes and wheels (smaller), turbo, intercooler. I guess it all adds up.
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I can understand how easy it is to weasel out of paying someone. I took a Mr Asia computer dealer to court a few years ago, he sold me a P2-300 overclocked to 450 as a legitimate 450. It was quite cheap though (the only good thing) but when I opened the case I found it was just an overclocked 300. It wasn't the money I was interested in (I paid around $200 more than I should have for a p2-300, but around $200 less than a 450), it was the principle, and I hoped to stop him ripping off other people in the future. I took him to court (he didn't show up), presented my case and won, sent the sheriffs around to collect the money (costing me another $50), and when they asked him his name and he said yes, they told him why they were there. He then said "Oh, that isn't me, this is me, the guy you mentioned went back to China a few weeks ago" and pulled out an expired security guard licence with a variation of his name's spelling. Because of that, the sheriffs couldn't do anything. They sent me a letter explaining that the guy was dodgy and that they believed that he was the guy in question, but because of the stupid laws in this country they couldn't do anything at all. They said they would forward the case to investigations but this was like 4 or 5 years ago and I don't ever expect to hear anything again. I have to ask though, why did you let this guy get $14000 of free work out of you? Were you just not paid at all during all this time? Or did he pay you a little bit, and say he'd give you the rest later? Good luck with it I hope you drag the bastard over the coals. I hate people that rip others off.
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Is yours a manual and the Commodore an auto? Autos will feel a lot faster off the line, even my mate's auto Corolla feels quicker off the line than my Skyline if you just press the accelerator down moderately on takeoff (ie don't slip the clutch on the Skyline). Also your car is a lot older, it might not be making as much power as when new due to lost compression or blocked injectors etc. Get a tune-up done and see what happens.
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VT VX VY has 152kw I think. A little bit more than an NA Skyline, but a lot more weight. I would say an NA Skyline would still be quicker than any of the V6 Commodores.
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Argh, finally got it in, but the bracket doesn't slide all the way down because the pump is still in the way of something. But neither will it come off if I pull it up because something else catches, so I decided to cut my losses after about 3 hours of stuffing around with it and just leave it there. I tried bending the bracket all sorts of ways and this was the best fit I could do. The pickup goes right down into the front section of the tank which is really small. I think I am picking up the fuel from slightly higher than it should be, but because that area is so small I'm probably missing out on the last half litre (if that). Still seems prone to stalling so I guess it hasn't helped there. If anything it's slightly worse. Hopefully it'll be a bit better after the S-AFC tune this Saturday. Failing that I might try the constant 12 volt mod. Oh, and this thing is quiet! I can barely hear it. I've no doubt that it'd be loud mounted externally or in a surge tank, but deep in the fuel tank it's almost as quiet as the stock pump.
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Repco sell the Bosch pumps. Steve, I'm having a LOT of fun getting this pump back in. I can get the brackt in by itself, but I try again with the pump and it hits on the fuel tank wall and I can't get it in. I'm pulling tricks out of my arse to try getting it in. I've also moved the pump up further, maybe too high now. But the metal hose is long gone Just a question in case you answer it before I get it in (may not even get it done tonight) - how far up is your pump? The top of mine is currently up near where the metal tube starts to come off the bracket, if that makes sense. It's cut off at that point, and that's where the top of the pump is. I'm high on petrol fumes!
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You can't compare new prices to second hand ones though. Sure it's only $2k for a second hand rebuilt HKS turbo, but it's only $1k for a second hand rebuilt Garrett turbo. Don't get me wrong, I would love a HKS turbo if I had the money. But even $1k was stretching the budget for me when I thought my turbo was dead. Lucky it was just the wastegate and only $140. Like I said, I'm a poor bastard.
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It's worth taking it to Hills even if you are at Chatswood. They are at Castle Hill which is an utter bitch to get in and out of with public transport, but since it's just an S-AFC tune you're after you can just wait while they do it. I'm getting an S-AFC tune done my car there as well this Saturday morning. I don't have the address handy but it's on Victoria avenue up the top of of the hill (west end). Their actual shop is down the very back of the industrial estate.
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I personally don't think the T04 is laggy, but it's all subjective I guess. The car came with it so I can't compare to the original ceramic turbo. It seems to start spooling early (2000-2500rpm) but doesn't hit full boost until around 4500-5000. That could partly be the old damaged wastegate's fault though, once the new fuel pump is in tonight I'll take it for a decent spin and let you know if full boost hits any earlier. Looking at the turbo while it was out I saw a tiny bit ground off the engine side of the compressor housing, because it touches the engine when mounted. This still didn't give it enough clearance, so rather than grind more off (thank god) they put a spacer in the mounting point on the exhaust housing. It now clears the engine by about 5mm. That spacer seems to be the only modification made, but as I didn't have the factory turbo to begin with I don't know if the coolant and oil lines are in different locations. Nissky told me where the underside coolant and oil lines were on the factory turbo and they seemed to be in the same spots on mine, but I don't know if they are the factory lines or not.
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Anyone used flexible duct for turbo to afm pipe?
JimX replied to roz85's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
That looks to be made of the same stuff that the original plastic hose is made from. I would say most performance shops that sell turbos would have it. The intake side does not usually get very hot so it should be fine with the temperatures. -
I'm pretty sure that GTR turbos are smaller than GTS-t turbos so you'd probably get less power GTRs have 2 turbos remember, and combined these provide more flow than the GTS-t's single. If you want to use GTR turbos you should probably install 2. You can usually buy a pair for around $600, but I don't know how difficult they are to hook up to the RB25.
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I won't say anything bad about HKS turbos, but I will say something about the price. FAT32 mentioned that to replace the bearing core will cost around $2k? You can buy a whole new Garrett turbo for around $1800. If you have the money to throw around then a HKS turbo is worthwhile, but if you're a poor bastard like me then I don't think you can go past Garrett. As I found out the other day, rebuilding a Garrett is only $350. I don't know how much better a HKS turbo would be in the place of my T04, but I do know that I was very happy with my T04, and that was back when it had a faulty wastegate. It's good for around 250rwkw, which is probably even a bit more than I want to run in my stock engine with stock injectors.
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Retail for an 044 is around $500-600. Trade price is around $350. Bosch price is even less The 044 for me ended up being only around $50 more expensive than the 040 so I figured I may as well get it.