JimX

Get an adjustable actuator to set it less than the normal "factory' setting. Depending on the actuator used you could effectively get rid of all boost. This will need to be adjusted manually between driver swapping though, could turn out to be a big pain in the arse real quick You could also just disconnect the actuator, a much quicker job. I don't know how healthy this will be for your wastegate/turbo though, because it'll probably be flapping around a hell of a lot.

You can, but not legally.

I slightly over-filled my oil on its last service. I was thinking that since it's so thin, it would probably get burnt off back down to the top line. But after 2000km it hasn't even moved a millimetre downwards on the dipstick. If your engine is still tight (as mine is) then the thinner you can go the better. The cold weight should always be around 0-15 or so, because your turbo needs a thin cold viscosity to quickly lubricate the bearing after startup. The engine also likes a thin cold oil to get to the upper engine parts quicker. The hot weight is less important, it can range from 30-60 easily with no adverse consequences aside from less power/economy at higher thicknesses, or worse protection and higher oil usage at thinner viscosities if your engine is worn. But if your engine isn't using any oil at all, go a 30 or 40 weight for the hot viscosity. My Commodore was running 15W-50, and it was still using about 2 litres of oil every 10000km. I think the only oil that gets used in my Skyline is out of the sump plug and filter during servicing

I had a little revenue raising incident this morning. On Victoria Rd Sydney, there were some cops busting people breaking the limit in the school zone. It was just after 9:20am, so only 10 minutes before the zone ended. I was thinking "they wouldn't still be busting people this close to 9:30 would they?" (they never bust transit lanes that close to closing time) and while I was thinking about it, I had slowly accelerated up to around 55, with traffic whizzing past me. I was almost tempted to go up to 70 again to match the traffic flow when I saw the cop with his radar gun and so slowed back down to 40. Obviously it was too late to slow down by this stage anyway, so I thought I might have been done. The cop further down the road which his buddy had radio'd stepped out in front of me and told me to stop (I was in the left lane). So I stopped, and he then waved in the ute who was in the middle lane into the side street who turned in front of me. The cop then got off the road and told me to go So obviously they don't ALL pick on us import drivers! I think the only reason I didn't get done was although I was still breaking the limit, I was the slowest of all the cars breaking it. Oh, and this was a revenue-raising incident because: There was not a single school kid in the whole damned area. I don't know which school it was (it's near Silverwater road) but I'm 99% sure that whatever school it was their starting time was well before 9:20. I just had a gut feeling that the cops might be there based on Tony telling me they like busting that stretch, and yet I was pretty sure they wouldn't be there which is why I went over 40. Sometimes it pays to listen to your gut feelings more to avoid voluntary taxes.

There are 80 zones on Sydney roads which have houses not 10 metres from the gutter, where no doubt at least some children live. By some people's logic in this thread, these roads should all be 50 zones. Edit: Erm, the children live in the houses, not the gutter Bad wording on my part. But I'm sure some might live in the gutter too

Because the stock pump is finished up around 215rwkw, along with the injectors. You can increase the limit slightly by fitting a bigger fuel pump and a rising rate regulator. My car is happy to go through 215rwkw with the current turbo, but the pump and injectors are limiting it. I only have an 044 only because it was dirt cheap. A 910 or 984 is more than adequate for the kind of power I'm looking for.

I'm using Castrol Formula R 5W-30 (full synth). It costs $50 for 5 litres from Auto 1. Edit: I no longer use the above oil. Not so much for the thickness of the oil but mostly because I think it's hell dodgy for a synthetic oil. I gave up using Castrol long ago.

What exactly is bad about this plenum? I'm not an expert on air flow but just looking at it it doesn't seem too bad. B-Man, if you are still having problems getting the turbo off, have a read of this thread If you can't get the exhaust nuts off, you might have to spray them with WD40 or something and let sit overnight. Don't be surprised if you end up snapping one or more studs off though, it is a common thing to happen on exhaust manifolds. Just be prepared for it. I was lucky with mine, the nuts on mine were actually not tight at all and came off easily. The oil and coolant lines were pretty tight, especially given the awkward positioning of them.

I got an Apexi direct from Japan, cost about $110 including postage. Some local shops sell them for up to $400!

Unburnt fuel between gear changes can happen no matter what. At this point the throttle is closed and no engine will suffer from leaning out with no air going in. Usually it indicates an aftermarket blow off valve, not an aftermarket fuel pump.

I installed an 044 pump in. My engine is still leaning out at 215rwkw. The next step is an upgraded regulator and/or injectors. I got the S-AFC tuned anyway, and my economy is around the same or even a little better (just did a 13.8L/100km almost all around town in traffic).

Sewid, that sounds like a good idea. I'll have to find a spot for a relay now, and figure out where to run the wire from/to. Actually, if I wire it up as you suggest, I should be able to take the +12v from one of the power window wires in the same cluster. Edit: No that wouldn't work, that would just wind my window down whenever the relay was engaged I think

Brody, how low have you run the tank after you got the new fuel pump put in? Mine now runs out with around 8 litres left in the tank (the gauge needle is just below the Empty line). I keep meaning to get it to around that level again so I can pull the pump out without having to dip my hands into petrol and extend the fuel pickup down further into the tank. But everytime I go to do that I need to drive a long distance on the weekend so I have to put more fuel in. Maybe next weekend

The standard pump does this. So will an aftermarket one if the same wiring setup is used.

The standard GTS-t pump is capable of flowing up to around 220rwkw generally speaking. It depends on the dyno and the condition of the pump and the injectors, of course. It's not uncommon to get leaning out at under 200rwkw. Disconnecting the battery is a bit of an overkill precaution I think. All of the wiring looms plug into the top of the fuel tank cap, which you need to disconnect before you even attempt to get the cap off anyway. If you want to disconnect the battery for this exercise, then make sure you disconnect both leads and remove the battery from the boot, because I reckon there'd be a bigger chance of accidentally zapping something if you just disconnected one lead and left the battery in place. I'm pretty sure there is no voltage in those connectors with the ignition off regardless, so even if you did short something there nothing would happen until you went to start the car anyway.

Brody, who did you speak to at Hills to put the pump in? Marcus didn't want to do it when I inquired. My pump doesn't make any weird circulating noises except for when the fuel level is below the level of the pump. The fuel must absorb the sound when it's above this. But I get no vibration at all and you can't hear it if the stereo is on.

The settings happen on the fly. No need to switch car off and on or whatever. Also, be wary of running too lean. The best bet is to get it professionally tuned on a dyno. You will get better results and a funky printout of the real differences it's made.

Holy crap, that sucks Still, if he can afford to blow $13k on the engine and not bother with insurance, he can probably afford the loss.

I'm pretty sure if you cut the only +12v wire with the ignition off it will disable it. There is only one wire where with voltage with the ignition off, and there are no other switches in that cluster that do anything with the ignition off. From memory it was the thin green wire (most are thicker), but check with your multimeter before cutting. Good luck with it.

That sounds like a complicated thing for the small switch next to the passenger window locker on the driver's door. Anyway, this switch. I want to change the wiring so that it only works when the ignition is on accessory or "on". ie, so it won't work with the key out. Just as a small anti-theft precaution (I know it's not much but every bit helps). Does anyone know how I can change the wiring to do this? I had a quick look yesterday when I had my door trim off, but I wasn't really sure what I should be doing. I found one wire with +12v on it with the ignition off, which I presume is the door unlocker. But I didn't want to go cutting wires and soldering them without a better idea of what I should be doing.

BOOSTD, where is the turbo "snout" you refer to above? Is this the bit that bolts onto the dump pipe? This is the part of my turbo which I am going to get bored out to 3" and a dump pipe to suit also installed.

The fact of the matter is, no one can judge whether or not it was safe for him to go 100kph in that 50 zone. Just because the sign says 50 doesn't mean it's not safe to go faster. The same as if the sign says 100 does not mean it's safe to go 100. All of you judgemental people seem to think that the signpost makes a better judgement call than a human. Now, the law is the law and there is a lot that you can argue about there as to whether it is right or wrong. But to just label him as a dickhead without having witnessed the circumstances of the incident is just stupid.

I've had a HKS fuel cut defender in my car ever since I got it, but I"ve never touched the settings. I was just wondering what should it be set at, and what are the consequences of setting it too high or low? I'm not really sure, but I think it's set all the way to the left at the moment (the "cut" side).

I don't know most of the sizes, but Marcus at Hills said that the exhaust outlet was a little too small. His plan is to machine it out to 3" and fit a 3" dump pipe, which will be the same size as the rest of the system. The AR on the compressor is 0.6.

If a car is only good if it's rare, then Skylines must be shithouse!