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JimX

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Everything posted by JimX

  1. Whiteline called me earlier today. The bad news is my strut isn't covered by warranty The shaft was damaged by a small stone and that caused the leak. Because it wasn't a manufacturing fault, it's not covered by warranty. But they said they wanted to help and gave me a big discount on the replacement (I believe they are doing it at cost). I was still a little disappointed so I asked if they could do me a discount on the front and rear swaybars as well. I'm not going to say too much now but everything promising. I'll post an update after I have gotten everything back (it's going to take them a couple of days to make the swaybars). If everything comes through as promised then I'll have nothing bad to say about Whiteline at all.
  2. I got mine from Melbourne because I didn't know Croydon sold it at the time
  3. Yeah, let's hope Robo changing his AFM fixes everyone's flatspots, coz it'll save us all a lot of money!
  4. As far as I know Bilsteins are made in Germany but repaired/serviced locally. I think they're just taking their time because they're lazy. I guess it's entirely possible that the strut is beyond repair and so they have to wait for a replacement from overseas, but they haven't even told Whiteline what the holdup is. Poor form on Bilstein's part in my opinion.
  5. One of my Bilstein shocks was leaking, so I took it out and gave it back to Whiteline. They said they'd send it off to Bilstein and give me a call when it was repaired. It's been a week and counting, and Bilstein still haven't called them back about it. I don't know why it would take so long to repair one shock, but I'm really glad I was able to put one of my old shocks in while it's away getting fixed or else my car would be off the road for all this time. Anyone that's not able to do this when their struts need to be fixed has my full sympathy!
  6. I'm thinking that at idle, it will be in close loop mode and run extremely rich no matter how much fuel I take out of the settings. How well does the PowerFC run without a tune? I might be able to scrape together enough to buy a PowerFC, but at $500 or more for a decent tune it would be quite awhile before I could afford to tune it.
  7. Now, I know that the S-AFC cannot regulate the pulse width of bigger injectors, but can it at least compensate for relatively smooth running? I'm guessing that idling is going to be my biggest problem. This might be the correct time to upgrade to a PowerFC.
  8. Do they have a mounting bracket that sits the 044 pump properly in the right spot or do they re-use the old bracket? Because mine is a little bit mangled I wouldn't mind buying something that puts it in the right position. At the moment I'm contemplating running a longer hose to pick up the fuel from lower.
  9. Mine just hoses/wipes off with a cloth whenever I wash the car. I've got a good coat of wax on it though, probably the reason why it comes off so easy.
  10. Hippy - to clean AFM - pull it out and spray with some electrical contact cleaner. You can buy the stuff at Jaycar etc.
  11. www.overclockers.com.au/mc is a fairly new bike forum. I don't spend much time there though because I don't modify my motorcycle much - it's quick enough already!
  12. Boiled brake fluid? What's he using?
  13. You sure they weren't talking about the 040? Even that would be pretty pretty cheap for an 040.
  14. Where do you get them for $250? I got mine direct from Bosch and I paid more than that.
  15. Ben, I'm using 5W-30 in mine which has done over 100k. So I would say you'd be fine with 5W-40.
  16. I think third party property insurance only and a tracking device.
  17. I got the RB20 fuel rail, and it seems the injectors line up perfectly. But the mounting positions are different, and the fuel lines don't go to the same positions at either end. I should be able to re-route the fuel lines with the hoses I've already got (I've got an extra set on the RB20 rail) but I'll need some metal welded on to mount it properly. Shouldn't be too difficult.
  18. I can fully appreciate getting something cheap and wanting to fit it even though it's not really the best thing to do. I've done it before and I'll probably do it again This thread has been pretty useful. I had thought of fitting a Commodore 6 speed before as well, but now I've scrapped that idea due the hassles and people saying it's not a very good box. I also since learned that the RB25 box was a lot stronger than I first thought, because according to SydneyKid they use the same quality gears as GTRs (therefore good for ~700hp like Joel says). One of the reasons I thought of upgrading was because I thought the RB25 box might be too weak for anything over 300kw so (in fact some people told me this), and since the GTS Commodore had 300kw the box must be good for more than that. I was way wrong and I'm glad, saved me lots of money I'm happy with my RB25 5 speed (does it have an actual name?). If I want more top-end I'll go the diff ratio change. Edit: Btw, I do know that gearboxes are rated to torque and not power. It's just hard for me to wrap my head around how much torque an RB25 engine is putting out at 300kw or 700hp so I've used those terms above.
  19. You can do it at home if you have the kit. Comes with some timing lights or you can probably buy it on its own.
  20. Tony, how did you break yours again?
  21. I've re-used my copper sump plug gasket a couple of times now. It had a bit of a ridge on it, but i sanded it back with some emery. Starting off with coarse grade and progressing to smoother, and it now looks pretty much brand new. It doesn't leak at all. I prefer copper, I've had bad experiences with fibre washers. They get worn/chipped with age. Re-using my copper washer wasn't me just being cheap, it was mostly due to the hassle of that I NEVER remember to buy one when I buy oil So it just saves another trip to the shop in someone else's car, assuming I'm doing the change during office hours.
  22. You don't have to. Just pump the oil in until it flows out the filler hole.
  23. I had a look on GCG and the only thing I could find was a sequential shift conversion kit (no box) and it is only 5 speed
  24. I think the biggest problem aside from the conversion hassles and cost is you'll have is more drivetrain loss through the bigger box. Maybe you should try selling the box and doing one of the other suggestions. You should make a profit on it easy.
  25. How does an EBC make boost come in earlier?
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