JimX

I had fun (not ) fitting my 044 to my GTS-t. If the GTR mounting bracket and tank is similar, you'll need to bend the bracket back and to the side a bit, because the Bosch pumps are too big to squeeze into the small front corner of the fuel tank. Pirtek won't have the fittings, I tried there when looking to fit mine up. They referred me to Earl's performance in Silverwater, who were able to help. I had to remove the small valve on top of the pump though because he didn't have the right sized banjo connector for it. It's only there to stop the fuel dribbling back down into the tank when the engine is off, but the regulator on the fuel rail does this well enough on its own. Your best bet is to pull your old fuel pump out, and take the whole thing including the bracket and your 910 to a performance shop, and tell them you want to replace the old pump with the new. They should be able to tell you the exact things you'll need, and hopefully they'll have everything there for you. The fittings and extra hoses and clamps you need should cost you around $60 or so. You can do it for less if you skimp on things like not fitting the factory fuel pickup, but if you don't you'll get major surge problems because the fuel intake will be about halfway up the tank. Also I've heard of pumps dying an early death if they don't have that extra filter sock on the end.

I spoke with Lepperfish in pm about this after having another think, but I'll put up the info here anyway for anyone else with a similar problem. I had another thought that it might be related to a lack of closed loop mode on his ECU. We're not sure if his aftermarket ECU supports closed loop mode or not, but if not it would explain why he's getting good power but shitty economy when cruising. Btw, I don't subscribe to the theory that just because it's a performance car it means you have to get bad economy, if I was of that opinion I would have bought a supercharged V8 The whole point of a turbo is you don't have to waste fuel if you don't need to.

I didn't modify it, I bought it pre-modified I'll take some pics this weekend. I will also draw up some plans for anyone wanting to do the same mods to an RB20 fuel rail. You'll need to cut the metal fuel return line off plus the mounting brackets, and put on 2 new ones of a different length. From looking at it, I wouldn't want to work it all out myself before modifying. With a plan done up, it looks like it'll take a few hours with some sheet metal and an oxy welder. Less if you're good at welding.

I recently got 12.6L/100km, which was 70km of freeway driving and about 380 of normal city driving. Usually I get low to mid 13's (L/100km) with no freeway driving. Sometimes just over 14 if I have the hammer down a lot or get stuck in a lot of traffic. If you're getting only 200km out of $40 (which I assume is around 40 litres) then something's very wrong. That is 20L/100km and a lot more than any 200kw Skyline should be getting. I don't think that's a matter of tune but rather a matter of something being wrong, such as the AFM. Get it checked out.

I've got a front-facing plenum. This is the only reason why I bothered with the top-feed injectors really, I've heard it's a major pain in the arse to fit top-feeds under the stock plenum.

Well, the injectors themselves without the O-rings on fit almost perfectly. They just go straight in and are quite a snug fit without needing any force to push in. I think I just think the O rings need to be either newer/softer or just a tiny bit smaller. I'll take the lot in to an injection shop and see if they can help me with the plugs as well. Anyone got any shop recommendations for a shop? Worst case I'll just take it to Hills when I'm ready to get it fitted, but for this simple stuff I'd rather do as much as I can at home. I'm pretty sure I can fit the whole thing myself as long as I get the O rings and wiring sorted. Should save an hour or 2 on labour at the workshop

Yeah I think I remember that thread, from memory his were too small I'll search back and see what he did.

I've got a set of purple top RX7 injectors and I'm having some problems fitting them in. I've got a modified RB20 fuel rail which they fit into quite nicely, but not with the O-rings. I tried pushing them in with the O-rings lubricated with a bit of WD but they won't go in very easily at all. I don't want to push them in too hard in case something breaks. The O-rings are looking a little tired anyway, I was thinking of buying a new set. Can someone tell me where I can get some from and what I am asking for exactly? Also, the plastic wiring loom clip doesn't fit. It looks similar though, is it possible to modify the clip slightly to make it fit? If not, where can I get some clips that will fit? Thanks in advance for any advice.

GTR injectors should be ok, but they are usually overpriced, and you will still need to modify them from low impedance to high impedance. RX7 injectors are usually more cost effective.

Also, GTR injectors are low impedance, GTS-t injectors are high impedance. So you'll need to modify them with resistor packs.

Does anyone remember the old Hondamatic from the 70's and 80's? It was an automatic gearbox, but you had to shift the gears manually. The absolute worst of both worlds! Those newer consumer tiptronics are in a similar league, though I think a lot of them have a full auto option at least (like the Magna).

One thing I've learned about governments is that they never do anything quickly. They are waiting until November to introduce the big 50kph default limit (in NSW), and this is something which will apparently save many lives. I find it very hard to believe they would be changing something about the 15 year old import rule overnight. If you have already bought an '89 car in Japan, I'm pretty sure you'll be ok to get it on the road next year.

MX5 is RWD. My friend's turbo was aftermarket, not sure if they came as a factory option.

I think Nissan themselves sell the rebuild kit for under $50. Someone here mentioned it a few weeks ago, I think it's the same as another type of locally-released master cylinder (could be 200sx) so you might not have to wait for them to import it if so. Try searching.

Obviously.

Skyline fuel pumps run at a lower voltage when your foot is off the accelerator (ie, idle). It sounds like either the voltage is dropping too low, or the pump isn't as strong as it used to be and can't supply enough pressure at this lower voltage. Do a search on these forums, there is a method by which you can make the pump run at 12 volts constantly. That should fix the problem.

When did he get quoted $2900? On the same day? Does he live in the same suburb? $3300 for your age and without any NCB is an absolute ****ing bargain. I would take that immediately. My premium is $1700 and that's with 60% and aged over 30. If I had your quote at full price then I would be paying $1320.

Non turbo MX5's are pretty gutless. I have a friend with a turbo fitted to his and it's still not blindingly fast, though for what it is, it's not too bad. Other shortcomings are it has no back seat and a small boot, which doesn't make it very practical if it's your only car. If you don't need a back seat or a boot, then try to find a turbo version. I think going to an NA MX5 from a mildly modded Skyline would be pretty annoying in the power stakes, regardless of how much better the handling was.

No surge for me unless I'm below the empty line on the gauge (<8-10 litres). I know why it's doing it though, it's because the pickup doesn't go as far down into the tank because the pump is in a different position. One day when I can be bothered I'm going to take it out and put in some longer hose so it gets the fuel from further down in the tank. If yours is doing it with half a tank you probably have a dodgy install. Have you got the original pick-up fitted to the bottom of the pump or is the fuel going straight into the pump?

Bigger lines are usually for carbie-fed cars - ie those without any fuel pressure. With the hammer down on a carb'd car you can quickly empty out a 3/8" fuel line which is why many big HP carb'd cars run 1/2" lines or even bigger. But as Steve said, I've never heard of 600hp or even higher fuel injected cars needing bigger lines. There was a 1000 hp GTR on Prestige Motorsport's mailing list recently and there is no mention of bigger fuel lines, just 2 044 pumps and 1000cc injectors. It's possible that he's running 2 fuel lines, or maybe the "HKS fuel delivery" is a bigger fuel line, but it's not very specific.

I always found Granville Brake and Clutch to be pretty good.

They are in Minto (south-western Sydney) and they have Koni shocks for adjustables.

Argh. I tried putting the front swaybar in tonight - forget it. There's some sort of support rod going from the chassis to the lower suspension arm which is in the way of the front bolts holding the old sway bar in. I tried taking this off but the nut wouldn't budge. Rather than **** around with it I think I'll just take it to Whiteline for them to do along with the bushes.

Running lean or detonation is the main cause of plugs melting isn't it? If so, maybe copper plugs would serve as a good warning device. Better a melted plug than a melted piston!

What, people crashing their cars into gangmembers' motorcycles?