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Everything posted by JimX
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Did you try cleaning the old AFM?
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You can buy adjustable C-spanners for like $90.
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SPLITFIRE DIRECT IGNITION SYSTEM (coils)
JimX replied to supra man's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
How are these better than the factory items? -
Check the voltage on your battery with the engine running. Rev the engine a bit, the voltage shouldn't go any higher than 14.5 or so. Should probably be under 14 actually (not sure). If it's too high then you have a faulty voltage regulator, should be repairable by an auto electrician for around $100. If you don't fix it you will blow bulbs all over the place, and also run the risk of blowing up more expensive electronic gear. If the voltage is fine, then I dunno
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The 2 main guidelines you should probably follow regardless of brand recommendation are: 1. Use a full or semi-synth. 2. Don't use too-thick oil, especially with the cold weight number. (hot weight isn't too important unless the engine is a bit worn in which case you should probably stick to 50 or 60 for the hot weight)
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Prestige Motorsport -- Another Question.
JimX replied to P1E's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Mine stalls coming off the accelerator when coming to a stop. If I leave it in gear for about 2 or 3 seconds before stopping though, the wheels will turn the engine over enough to get past this "stall phase" and then it won't stall. I don't think it's the bov, because at such low speeds even the factory bov wouldn't be opening. I just changed my driving habits so that it hardly ever happens. If I have to come to an abrupt halt though (eg, taxi stopping in front of me to pick up passengers) then I'll still usually stall it. The engine otherwise runs like it's brand new. -
Does an RB20DET fuel rail fit an RB25DET engine?
JimX replied to JimX's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Thanks Joel, it all sounds good to me. -
Before I got the Skyline I considered the 180SX. Even after getting the Skyline I considered selling it and getting an older 180SX ('92 model or so) at half the price just to get rid of some debts. At half the price it would have been a bargain and given absolutely more performance bang for buck, and if I wanted to be financially sensible that's exactly what I would have done. But performance wasn't what my car is all about, and for the reasons below I decided to buy/keep the Skyline: (1) I like the shape of the R33 better. It just appeals to me more. Entirely subjective. (2) The Skyline's interior is better (mm... velour...) Not so subjective (most people would agree), though a lot of 180SX people get around this by upgrading the seats. (3) I've always liked straight 6's better than 4's. I like the sound better, I like the smoothness.... I dunno, I just like them. Ever since my Torana days. Not keen on V6's (which ruled out the 300ZX) (4) There's more room in the R33 (well, for the driver and passengers, maybe not in the boot). (5) Climate control (again I hear some people get around this by fitting S15 climate control. I think?!) The clinching factor though, is: (6) My motorcycle will entirely hose almost any Skyline or 180SX you care to mention. There are some exceptions to number (6) above of course, that pretty much being any car breaking into the 9's or 10's, or capable of better than 1:38 around Eastern Creek (I can't do that time but I know someone who has done a 1:38 on the same model of bike) but they are very few and far between. And there's no way I could ever afford a 10 second car anyway even if I sold the bike and used the money to upgrade a Skyline or 180SX, so I decided to go for the "nicer" car rather than the faster one. I still like the 180SX a lot, and 200SX only slightly less, and I'd have no problems owning one. But I still prefer the R33, partly because my bike compensates me for my need for speed, but mostly because I just think it's a nicer car.
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dead battery - effect on safc/sitc
JimX replied to mrthorpedo's topic in General Automotive Discussion
No, they use static RAM. Either way, you should write down all the settings on them anyway. It's not hard and it is good insurance incase something goes wrong. eg, it breaks, or someone accidentally (or maliciously) erases the settings. -
Prestige Motorsport -- Another Question.
JimX replied to P1E's topic in General Automotive Discussion
A lot of Skylines stall for no apparent reason, usually because of an aftermarket bov (but not always). Check this thread in the forced induction forum. Stalling is usually no way to tell if a Skyline engine is shagged, you have to use the normal methods like loss of compression or burning oil or strange noises. -
Hmm, I've got a feeling you're being gypped from both sides. I've never heard of a Skyline that's had all its ball joints worn out at only 58000km. Sure it might have been wound back, but check the condition of the rest of the car. Is it blowing any smoke? Gearbox crunchy? If it's in otherwise good nic I think that maybe Pedders might be trying to scam $2000 out of you. Wait and see what your local garage guy has to say. You might want to tell him beforehand that you're not getting him to do any work that might be needed, just to discourage him from lying about what needs to be done. The buckled rim should be repairable, especially if you can't tell it's bent just by looking at it.
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The Dyno showed my something about my GTR today....
JimX replied to JUN R33's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
It sounds like you have one or more blocked injectors. Have you had them cleaned and flow tested? Edit: Could also be a faulty O2 sensor. -
Does an RB20DET fuel rail fit an RB25DET engine?
JimX replied to JimX's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Sorry, forgot to specify. I'm getting top-fed injectors. -
As the subject says I have a front-facing plenum so I don't have to worry about clearance above the fuel rail, I just need to know if it's otherwise a fairly easy fitment. I don't mind making some small mods for mounting, but if the spacing for the injectors is wrong or something then it's out of my league.
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I only need the RB20DET fuel rail so that it can take the top-fed injectors I'm getting. But I'll need to find out first if it will fit onto an RB25DET engine with little or no modification. I'll ask in the other forums I think. What would you want just for the fuel rail if it ends up being ok?
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Do you still have the fuel rail? Does anyone know if this will fit on an RB25DET for top-fed injectors?
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$600 with injector harness is definitely reasonable. I will consider getting one closer to my injection upgrade. (man, I hate to think of how much the middle men were making on the base units sold for $1200).
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Who sells them for $600? And the only reason I would consider getting one is because with my upcoming injector upgrade, it'd handle them better than my S-AFC if I get the injector harness. But how much is the injector harness? How much are the other optional bits? And why is it heaps better than the S-AFC anyway? The biggest thing going for it that I can see is the extra plugins you can get, but they all cost money. I'm talking about just the base unit here when compared with S-AFC. I know that with all the extra bits it would crap all over the S-AFC, but I reckon it'd cost more than a PowerFC once you bought them all.
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I just looked up the other E-manage thread and saw they are $900-$1200 :confused: Why so much for something that's only marginally better than the S-AFC? Yes it has more potential, but at $900-$1200 you've already paid for a PowerFC which has a lot more stuff in it. I was thinking (hoping) that the E-manage was closer to $400 or $500, which is a more realistic price given its abilities.
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I gained power from my cooler and plenum upgrade, but I don't know if I would have gained more if I had kept the factory plenum. I have a better throttle response regardless and the bay looks a lot neater to me IMO. It's also easier to run top-fed injectors. I can't see myself going back to the stock plenum anytime soon. Edit: I got my plenums mixed up.
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This HAS to be a troll.
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what do i need for total boost control
JimX replied to GTR R35's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Depends on how competent you are with the iron. I installed my S-AFC myself and I've removed/replaced the turbo myself, I don't imagine a boost controller would be much harder than combining the 2. There are no tuning costs if you don't have a reprogrammable ECU or piggyback device (S-AFC etc), but don't expect it to run very well until you get one and tune it -
For anyone that's interested, I found out why ST115's have low road noise. According to Falken's American site, the ST115's have "Base tread rubber compound contains micro vacuum capsules that literally suck up road noise". I'm assuming that this also means less rubber hence they wear out quicker.
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How much for the E manage plus injector harness? I assume you want the latter if you put bigger injectors in. How does the S-AFC not cope with bigger injectors?