JimX

Is that ADR approved?

If your recycling bottle and bleeder tube are clean then I don't see why not. I guess they don't have to be surgically clean, just as clean or cleaner than the underside of your master cylinder cap I would buy another bottle to have on hand anyway just in case you lose some fluid or it needs topping up again. But don't break the seal on it until you actually need it (coz you'll have to throw the excess out anyway once it's opened).

Ben, it's possible that the master cylinder needs bleeding again. Apparently they are a real bitch to get all of the air out of, unlike the brake lines which is quite easy. Maybe give that another few goes before you start replacing it. I'm just thinking that if there was a fault in there it should make your brakes crap all the time, not just before you pump them up a bit. But I'm no expert, just taking a stab.

The Powerfc is "Not real good"? At what exactly? I've seen a few posts here from people having problems with the Microtech (mostly with fuel economy) but I can't remember seeing anyone having issues with the PowerFC.

My R33 doesn't need the pedal pumped to bring pressure back into the brake line. There is definitely something wrong with Ben's.

I don't think Famous insures anyone under 21 anymore.

I'm interested in a plush pile front and back set without the Nismo logo. If you could do a Skyline logo or something instead that'd be great Also can you tell me if the driver's mat has the little hole to sit onto the plug thing in front of the driver's seat? And do you know where I can get something to hold it on? My old one keeps slipping off

Thanks for the info Lenno. So now it seems the biggest problem after undoing that really tight nut holding them on is putting the new bushes in. Could I use something like a vice or G-clamp to push them in? Just thinking of what I can use around home so I don't have to take the car to a suspension shop. I guess once I have them off I could just take the rods themselves in to be done on the spot, hopefully something that can be done on a Saturday morning without costing a fortune (that rules Midas out). The rear bushes look to be a lot easier, because they are in 2 halves. I'm pretty sure they will go in fairly easily because I shouldn't have to push the "lipped" part of the bush through anything, unlike the radius rod ones.

If you have to get a Skyline for your first car, why not something dirt cheap like a non turbo R32 or R33? They have most of the good stuff that the R34 has like climate control, power windows, nice interior etc, but at a fraction of the price. Put a tracking device and immobiliser in and just stay on third party property damage insurance until you build up a decent NCB, then upgrade to a turbo car with comprehensive insurance.

After I got rear-ended around a year ago, I had the option of respraying the car a different colour to the factory silver. I would have preferred a black car (I was looking for a black car when I got mine, but this one was too good a deal to pass up) but in the end I decided it would be too dodgy to do such a fundamental colour change. If I ever wanted to sell it, the first thing people would notice is the majorly different colour (you can never really cover it ALL up) and they would either use this to bargain thousands of bucks off the price or just walk away. You might think you hate the colour now but it will probably grow on you if you get it. I have never owned a car that was my first choice in colour. Previously I've had brown, red, and white Toranas, all of which were colours I hated but ended up not minding after a short time. After that a white Commodore (I still don't like white) which I also ended up liking. Then a metallic green Commodore, which I never even considered getting before, but again ended up quite liking. Then finally the silver Skyline, which was my 2nd or 3rd choice in colour after black and maybe gunmetal, but now I really like. I still like black better, but I'm compensated in not having to wash the silver nearly as often

Oh yeah I didn't think of that. Only pull it off if you need to fix it. But still, it can be tricky to get the dump pipe out of the way unless you can remove the whole thing. Mine is welded to front pipe and cat, so I don't think I could inspect it very easily with it all still on the car. But yeah, do what you can before taking the turbo off first.

I pulled open the packets of bushes I got from Whiteline and read the instructions. Those rods are in fact the castor rods, or rather, the radius rods which control the castor. I think I can put the bushes in myself. The Whiteline guy mentioned needing a press to get them in but I think I can do it with my hands or maybe a rubber mallet I'm going to pull the radius rods off this weekend and do the swaybar, as well as giving the bushes a go. But what I need to know is, what are the torque settings for the radius rod bolts? Does anyone have a list of torque settings for the various suspension bits?

Maybe my feeler gauges are wrong, but I couldn't fit the 0.8 measurement into the gap. I decided not to force it due to the sensitive iridium, so I tried 0.7 and it fit in nicely without any slack.

I've one for over a year now and I still can't help but check out other Skylines I just love these cars to death, well the R32's and onwards anyway. I've done the Commodore V8 thing for 4 years, but now I'll only go back there if I need to tow a boat. ie, if I end up with more money than I know what to do with. I don't buy cars for their rarity. I either like it or not and don't care about how many were made. I also like affordable spare parts and not having to wait 6 months for them to arrive from the other side of the world.

Tune S-AFC. Cost $150, +30rwkw.

Hm, I would have replied to this earlier if I had noticed this earlier, so my apologies! I had a very similar problem, a sticking wastegate. I didn't know this until I pulled the turbo off and had it examined by an engineer at Garrett. He found the fault, which was it had been welded shut and later on the weld cut, which stuffed the pivot. I got quoted and paid $140 to fix it. The best deal is to just pull the turbo off and have a look. If it's a factory turbo then Garrett in Chipping Norton should be able to fix it pretty cheaply if it's damaged. If it's just blocked with something then you can probably clean it out yourself.

The fuel pump sock is a very coarse filter and as such does not get blocked with microscopic particles like the fuel filter does. All it needs to do is stop the larger bits going through the pump, which will screw it up. The pump can easily cope with the fine particles which would clog your injectors. That's what the fuel filter is for further down the line. The only time you'd probably need to replace the sock is if it's damaged (ie, letting the big particles in). If it is clogged up with gunk then you should probably buy your fuel from a different place. And you should probably also clean your tank out.

Ditto.

Failing AFMs will usually produce bad flat spots as well as bad economy and less than optimal power. Try cleaning it first if you haven't done so. Get some electrical contact cleaner from Jaycar to do this.

You shouldn't need a spring compressor unless maybe you have brand new springs at the stock ride height. After a short time the springs should settle and you won't have any tension in them by the time the nut which holds everything in place is loose. You can do it yourself if you have a spare couple of hours, even if you don't know what you're doing. Here's a brief rundown: 1. Jack front of car up and take wheels off. 2. Undo the bolts up the top. 3. Undo the bolt down the bottom. 4. Gently tap the strut sideways until it pops off its mounting. Be very careful to take the weight as it slides off so it doesn't drop onto the ground. If you're really worried, leave the top nuts on loosely so that they take the weight when it comes off. 5. Take strut and coil assembly to your workbench. 6. Use an adjustable spanner to hold the shock absorber shaft in place while you undo the nut with a normal spanner. 7. Take the spring and bump stops out, keeping note of the order in which everything comes off. Be careful of spring tension, but I've never had any by the time the nut is fairly loose. 8. Put everything you pulled off onto the new shock. If it was something like a Bilstein, you will need to assemble a couple of parts of it first. Maybe do all of this before step 1 so that you don't mix parts up. 9. when you're putting the top bit on before the nut, if necessary use your own body weight to push the spring down. It should only need to come down a couple of centimetres. 10. Push the strut assembly up through the top, and loosely do up the top nuts to hold it in place. 11. Use either a jack or your own brute strength to push the bottom part onto the bottom suspension arm. 12. Do up the bottom bolt very tightly. 13. Do up the top nuts not very tight at all. Think of how tight they would be if you could tighten them as much as possible using a screwdriver, and do them up a teeny bit tighter than that. 14. Repeat for the other side. 15. Put wheels back on, all done! I think that's it. No responsibility taken if you screw something up or hurt yourself or the spring is so tight it shoots off across the room and takes someone's eye out The above has been my experience only. Your mileage may vary.

Yes, but not now I'll see if I get time to do one tonight, if not then on the weekend.

I had another look the other day but I gave up pretty quickly again. I can't get at the front mounting bolt because there's some sort of suspension rod in the way. This rod sits in a large bush pivot, and mounts onto the lower suspension arm with 2 bolts. I'm not sure what this rod is, it doesn't seem to do anything other than stabilise the forwards/backwards movement of the suspension. Anyway, my question is, is there a way to get the swaybar off without removing this other suspension rod? I had a go with my breaker bar but it's on VERY tightly. I'd rather not remove it unless absolutely necessary. I also don't know what issues I will have trying to put it back in, like will I need a press or something to squeeze the bush back in? Any advice appreciated! Edit: I'm guessing this rod is the castor rod, but I could be wrong because I don't know much about suspension. Oh, and the car is an R33 GTS-t.

Who made the fuel rail? It's incredibly pretty. Mine was a lot cheaper, but a lot uglier. If I was richer I'd love to pay for the bling bling

Turbogtst (fellow forum user) had an RX7 turbo on his GTS-t, which I think was good for around 250rwkw. I think his was a series 5 turbo though. As far as I know he still has it for sale, pm him if anyone's interested. I was going to buy it myself when I thought my turbo was b0rked, but I only had a faulty wastegate which I got fixed. From what I could see on it, you will probably have to slightly re-route the oil and water lines, but other than that it seems to be a pretty easy fitment.

Holy mother of jebus that's a big exhaust housing!!! The guy at Garrett said my turbo was a T04E but my exhaust housing isn't nearly as big as that and it has an internal wastegate. Maybe I just have a T04E front or something (which looks very similar to yours).