JimX

The quote was from Midas. Nothing more needs to be said

I think it is cheaper to turbo a rotary, because it doesn't use/need the bore oil squirters that normal engines have. Aside from that though it's still a pretty major project. You'll need a new exhaust manifold, new ECU, new intake, and piping for the intercooler (oh, and an intercooler). The plus side is there is a heap of room in the engine bay in an RX7 up the front, so you just whack everything up front and it's pretty sweet. The exhaust might be a bit fiddly though.

Can you get that accusump thing anywhere locally?

They don't all stall.

Mine seems to be going pretty well on the settings I have above. Stalls less often than before. I will put it back to 0 at some point and see if it's any worse, because the thing seems to go through cycles of stalling or not stalling. Btw, I remember mentioning previously that the throttle was just over 5% when I lightly touched it. I got the decimal point wrong, it was actually 0.5%. So if you're going to try the Dec Air function maybe set it to 1% or so, not 5%. I'll try mine at 1% later tonight and see if it's any different.

Pushead, I haven't written down the current settings yet (too lazy), but I've got the old ones after the first tune. The only difference between old and new are catering for a front-facing plenum and bigger front-mount intercooler. I wouldn't advise using these settings directly as a base level, except for maybe the Lo/Hi throttle settings. If you do I won't be responsible for blowing your engine up Apexi S-AFC settings: Lo: % 1000 0 2000 +3 3000 +5 4000 +1 5000 -4 6000 -2 7000 0 8000 0 Hi: % 1000 0 2000 +3 3000 0 4000 -8 5000 -13 6000 -9 7000 -2 8000 -2 Throttle position: Lo: 45% Hi: 46% Dec.Air: Thr: 5% Ne 1: 15% Ne 2: 7.5% Oh, the car seems to be not stalling again. It's going through some phases, and I hope it settles on not stalling It's come close to stalling but didn't do it at all tonight. So I think the above Dec. Air settings are a good baseline to start with.

The nut would be it. I take it it's attached to the plenum kind of near the front of the engine? Not sure if you have to take it out completely or not to bleed the system, but I did.

I can't recall any significant difference in either party as to who they "look out for". I remember Paul Keating wanting to introduce a GST (bad for low income earners) and it was John Howard that introduced the Medicare surcharge for people on over $50k (bad for high income earners). Howard also introduced the law which stops self-employed people earning more than 85% of their wage from one source. If they do then they lose a shitload of tax benefits. State governments are no different. Has anyone seen what Bob Carr (Labor) wants to do to the public transport system in NSW? Basically if you vote, you vote for the lesser of 2 arseholes. Or you can do what I've done in the past and just write "They all ****en suck" on the ballot paper.

I don't suppose you know where I can download the games from?

If you really want to do it, I think the best way to do it is to leave it switched off most of the time (assuming it can't be detected when off), and stick to roughly around the speed limit for general driving (maybe 5-10kph over or so). Then when you decide you need to floor it for a bit (for example, to get around dickheads or when the road is wide and open) then flick it on for the few seconds while you do the manoeuver, then switch it off again. When used this way it'll be serving a much better purpose - that is saving you from an automatic licence suspension for 20k+ over the limit. I don't think the risks of getting busted with it are worth it if you are trying to save yourself from a 10-15kph over the limit fine, and I don't think it's good driving practice to stick to 20kph+ over the limit constantly.

A plenum is just the chamber before the intake manifold to hold a reserve of air for the engine.

I have to say that it will be a long time before I will be able to make it to the track. Not till next year at the earliest. I have the following bills coming up: 2x rear tyres @$620 2x front tyres @$560 2x front discs @$600 (?)

Meh I don't care, not like I've never done it myself

I don't think you can import the non-turbo 4 doors anymore. But the turbo ones qualify under the "performance" category.

Usually you want a bit of negative camber on the track for the corners. Less camber will help you get better traction on the drag strip. So yeah, I've got a rear camber kit, but I'm only fitting it to help preserve my tyres Btw, bad toe alignment will wear your tyres out faster than a bit of negative camber. If you're chewing out the rears too much then do a 4 wheel alignment before checking camber.

Ndr, how much are the new belts worth? Probably several hundred each

I had another look and there is an extra square hole at the top like wrxhoon says. I reckon over a period of months (like mine has been) water could easily evaporate out that hole, because it gets pretty warm in there. The thing is though, I don't know how easily coolant evaporates. So if you filled it up with coolant it's entirely possible that it would never evaporate no matter how hot your engine got. Unfortunately I don't have any spare coolant to put in the overflow bottle, I forgot to put some in there when I changed my coolant recently. I agree though that losing a few cm after a couple of drives is definitely wrong.

How hot was the oil before and after? Make sure the pressure gauge is working properly before casting judgement on the pressure, but temperature gauges usually don't go out of whack.

Usually back off the timing a couple of degrees or use better fuel (higher octane). But you wanna make sure it's pinging first, it could be a worn bearing or something in your gearbox or clutch. Take it to a mechanic or someone who knows what to listen for.

I dunno, about half a minute? Then just keep the revs low (<3000rpm or so) until the engine is warm.

If it is your engine pinging then get it fixed, because pinging=bad! Not as bad as on a turbo car but still not healthy for your engine at all.

Yeah it's normal I even think (not 100% sure) that when the engine is cold, the moisture in the air doesn't get hot enough to completely boil into invisible steam as it goes through the engine, as thus comes out as visible vapour.

Steam (smoke) coming out while warming up is normal. It's just condensation in the exhaust evaporating. Even brand new cars do this.

Wtf? Did you miss the bit where he said "$25k"?

I tried 5% 15% 7% and it seemed better to begin with, but soon started stalling again. It's almost as if you can tune it to not stall, but the ECU's learning mode decides that stalling is better and starts stalling again. Does anyone know if a PowerFC definitely fixes this or do you still need an extra idle controller (like the HKS one).