JimX

Yes that's true, unplug it. That's how I discovered what it did when it wasn't running, when I accidentally yoinked my cable out

Ta for that, it's a start at least I've gotta go pick up my injectors from the workshop sometime soon, hopefully they'll know what the timing is supposed to be.

The Dec Air thing doesn't work very well, and for many people it doesn't do anything at all. This isn't the S-AFC's fault but rather the ECU's and it can't be compensated for. You can buy a HKS idle control kit for a few hundred bucks to fix it for good if you have the stalling problem. Until you get an aftermarket BOV, just leave the Dec Air function on 0 like I told you. To tell if the S-AFC is working or not, go for a drive! If the car drives exactly as before, then it's working perfectly. Remember it intercepts your AFM signal, and if it doesn't process this properly and pass it through at 0% then your car will sense a failed AFM and go into limp home mode where the car won't rev over 2000rpm and run mega-rich until it's fixed.

Good to hear! Don't forget to put up your before and after dyno results when you get them

Dan, that's ok, there's no harm in putting badges off a car that's slower than the one you're driving When the V8 badges off my Commodore were taken, I immediately bought replacements. But then thought "what's the point? who cares if it's a V8 or not and they'll probably just get stolen again anyway" so I never put them back on. On a totally unrelated note, I now have a V8 PC

How much roughly does it cost for a GTS-4 landed? If it was under $15k or so, and the RB26DETT engine fits in easily enough, I imagine it would be a very cheap way to a GTR that looks like a GTS-t. Can you spell sleeper?

Wow, that's a spot of luck. I was actually looking for this exact article a few months back which I read some time before that but didn't save. All I could remember was basically it was ok to use a high grade car oil in a motorcycle, but I couldn't remember the details. I ended up using Castrol Formula R for the last 2 oil changes in my bike anyway, basically because of what I remembered of that article. I'm now running the same oil in both car and bike, makes managing my servicing a little easier, by having less spare oil lying around. I might switch to a thicker grade for summer though on the bike though, it gets pretty bloody hot and the engine revs about 50% higher than the Skyline.

The thing is, a GL Lancer IS a riced up piece of shit! If they at least turbo it and shove some bigger brakes (including discs on rear) on then it would be at least semi-respectable (I have seen some like this), but it still has crappy FWD.

Don't forget the practical aspects - most 300ZX's here only have 1 passenger seat. The 4 seater ones are also pretty cramped in the back. But having a 2 seater is a good excuse to not have to act as a taxi to your friends

Odd choices, but given them I would vote to sell and get the S15. But by the same token, if it were the other way around, ie you had a non-turbo Silvia and the options were to either turbo it or buy a GTS-t, I would vote for getting the GTS-t. Out of interest, why would you want to even consider turbo'ing your own car considering the extra expense and hassles?

Didn't we already establish that most people here don't mind the kits but hate the badges?

Awhile ago my mechanic retarded my timing slightly when tuning the S-AFC. That's done with the little metal thing with the 3 bolts in front of the exhaust cam right? Anyway I don't know what it was before or after, and before I install my PowerFC I want to set it back to what it should be (factory settings? someone advise of a better setting for 98RON fuel if not) So my questions are - (1) Is the timing set with that metal thing I described above? and (2) What should I set it to? I guess I can also throw in (3) Where are the timing marks and where do I hook up the timing light? I should be able to work it out, but on the off-chance it's confusing then someone please tell me This being for a '95 R33 GTS-t.

I will re-use any gaskets except maybe the head gasket, if they are in good condition. Exhaust putty will fix up any leaking exhaust gaskets. As long as they're not cracked or pitted badly or something it should be ok. Another exception are those non-reusable cardboard ones. But I don't think there are many (any?) on our 'lines. Also some rubber gaskets may look ok but still be worn enough to leak, which you can't really fix with sealant. You just have to judge each gasket as you find it.

Just for future reference in case you are thinking of buying one elsewhere - No it won't.

To me the R33 is just a nicer car. It looks nicer and is generally a higher-end car than the S15. Sure the S15 is faster mod for mod, but that's only because it's like 200kg lighter and not because the SR20 is a better engine. Why do you think there are so many S15's with RB25 conversions? I don't know of any R33's with an SR20 conversion. The closest I've seen is Meggala's R32 SR20 conversion, but that's understandable because it's the same capacity but lighter weight than what was in there. It depends on what you want from a car. If you want best performance bang for buck, then the S15 is probably a better choice. But for most people there is more to a car than that. And as I've said before, my motorcycle generally kills both anyway

On the page a few before that one it has a listing of engines, which shows you the right one to use. I think it was N6c or something from memory. Take a look a few pages back, you should be able to find your engine. But as I said, it's hard to tell if you have the newer engine or older. I'm pretty sure we have the newer one even though the book says that the 95 models have the older one.

Did you buy this off me last night? You should have asked about the settings They should all be zero for both high and low throttle settings for default settings. That's right in the middle because you can go + and -. I think the diagram you need is N6b or N4a or something. I left the book open on the right page for you. I'm not sure about the extra wires because I don't remember having any, but I wouldn't be earthing anything onto the chassis. The unit is far too precise to rely on earthing through the dodgy earth on the car. I would do the same as I did and splice the relevant wire closer than the other as the instructions say. Also, I don't know why but one of the bitch things we found when setting it up, was that my voltmeter wouldn't pick up the 12v on the 12v line that comes on with the ignition. This made me think we had the thing wired around the wrong way, and after a lot of procrastination we eventually wired it up that way anyway and found that it was correct.

A second hand S-AFC is probably the best bang for buck tuning tool you have available for an R33. It should cost around $350 (I just sold mine for that, heh) plus $150 for tuning, and you will have an easy 20 extra rwkw, not to mention smoother running and better fuel economy.

HOTR33, I think that's a valid excuse. Maybe most of the ones we see on our roads were like that from Japan and the owners don't want to get rid of them for the same reason. We can only hope

I don't see the point in the 4 light conversion other than for appearances. The high beams show a little less light in the low beam area, but it's still plenty enough to see. If you don't care about what your car looks like from the outside, then just leave them as they are. Better quality bulbs (Super 50's, HID conversion, etc) will do more for your visibility than putting your low beams on along with the high beams. In fact running 4 bulbs at once might even start to melt or discolour your headlight covers. I know some people have melted theirs with 110w bulbs, and both lights on at once will be putting out 110w. It might be ok though because it's spread out over 2 spots. But something to consider. Keep in mind that by the time oncoming traffic will close enough to be impressed by your 4 lights, it will be too close to leave the high beams on anyway.

I thought HICAS was around since the first R32.

I agree fully. The GTS-t is still a pretty serious machine and absolutely nothing to be even slightly ashamed of. But when you compare a Lancer GL with the equivalent Evo, it's understandable why the owners feel so ashamed of their cars that they feel the need to rice it up and make everyone think it's an Evo

I agree fully. The GTS-t is still a pretty serious machine and absolutely nothing to be even slightly ashamed of. But when you compare a Lancer GL with the equivalent Evo, it's understandable why the owners feel so ashamed of their cars that they feel the need to rice it up and make everyone think it's an Evo

Well, I started pulling my bits out to sell (FCD and S-AFC), and I noticed that the Fuel Cut Defender has not been plugged in all this time! The unit was installed on the dash when I got the car, it had the power wired in properly but the signal wires to the ECU were just dangling. They had round connectors on the end, but I'm pretty sure they need to be spliced into the loom like the S-AFC wires. The guy that installed it probably ran everything up until that point, then realised there was nowhere to plug the wires in and so just gave up. I saw the wires there when I installed my S-AFC last year but didn't think they were anything important and so didn't bother tracing them back. I thought they were speaker wires for splits or something. I would bet $20 that this is the whole cause of my surging problems. Consarn it! Oh well, the PowerFC should make me a happy chappy.

I may have a buyer for it in the meantime, but if that doesn't eventuate tomorrow I'll go to the post office and get a price for sending it over for you. I'm not sure how you would send me the money though, have you got any ideas? Anyway I'll let you know tomorrow if the other buyer isn't interested. I also checked the manual and it's kind of in Japanese, but the wiring diagrams are all self explanatory.