JimX

And a quick dead engine when the pump stops for no apparent reason Electrical water pumps aren't worth the risk IMO. I'd rather pay the 10kw.

The stock pump has 9 fins, not 5 But they are smaller. Apparently 6 big fins flows better than 9 small ones. Actually, it may not, it might just have less of a load on the engine and thus less power loss.

How much are those Motul oils and where can I get them from? I like ester based oil, I've used it in my bike before. It smells like lollies!

I'll have to get back to everyone on the RX7 injectors (this includes the people that pm'd me). Basically I'll need to make sure these side feeds are all ok to go in (they're still in the post), and once I confirm that they're all good I'll sell the RX7 injectors. They haven't been run in my car, but they came out of an RB20 and they were fine. They were also flow tested and cleaned last week and they are all good (all flowing pretty much spot on 540cc). The only reason I decided to get the side feeds was out of convenience (and because the price was right ). I still haven't bought the wiring connectors for the RX7 injectors (they are $30 for a set of 6 from a wrecker). You'll also need 2 bolts which I don't have to mount it and some washers to space it out a bit. Anyway as I said I'll get back to everyone on them. I'll have to ask a bit more than $500 though because they owe me a fair bit more than $500 so far including the fuel rail and cleaning and flowtesting (over $650 actually). I'm prepared to lose a bit on them though (for something I've never used, talk about bad investment!), so the asking price will be somewhere between $500 and $650

Would you be interested in a set of RX7 injectors with a top feed rail?

Torque Underwriting - 1300 369 769 I was insured with them last year, made one claim (not at fault) and they were really good. The only reason I didn't re-insure with them is because Famous beat their quote by $500 and they wouldn't match. Other than the price I have no complaints at all about Torque.

Maybe his wife is forcing him to sell all his bodykits or she will kick him out of the house

Thanks Steve. It's the unaudible pinging that I was concerned about (as are we all, I'm sure). Edit: And thanks Gary too

I have a question about the RB25's knock sensors and PowerFC readout - as I understand it, there are 2 sensors in the block which "hear" the knock, is that right? Do they detect knock in any of the cylinders or only the ones they're adjacent to? And since the stock ECU doesn't give you a readout, how would you ordinarily be able to tell if the engine is pinging?

Multigrips. The bit that spins (shaft) had flat edges on the tip before the thread starts. Edit: Sorry, I'm an idiot. I should have looked at your pic first. The tip SHOULD have a bit you can grip onto, but yours looks flush with the nut. You might have to grip onto it somewhere between the spring coils. Try to use something that won't damage the shaft, maybe multigrips with some cloth. And grip it as high as possible so that you don't damage the bits that go into the seal.

And this is important why?

How much do Unigroup charge for a PowerFC tune?

I paid $150 for my S-AFC tune at Hills a couple of months back. It took around 2 hours (he did have to leave the job for a few minutes every now and then to tend to other stuff though) and it involved adjusting the timing. Are you sure they didn't think you were referring to a PowerFC tune? I understand that they can cost upwards of $500. Also, the last time I got a quote from CRD they quoted me $200 or so. But that was almost a year ago.

Since you have a PowerFC can't you just add in a bit of fuel on your map manually? Or back off the timing slightly.

UAS sell a GTR N1 pump for only $150, I would be getting that as a replacement.

What speed rating are the ST115? I had a look at the American site and some seemed to be V or W rated, but most had no speed rating listed at all. And what does Treadwear 360, Traction A, and Temperature A mean?

The thing with Justcars is you have to use their repairers which is probably why they insure more people and can be cheaper. With Famous (and Torque, Shannons, and a few other enthusiast insurers) you get to pick your own repairer. They have a few blacklisted dodgy repairers, but other than that you can use pretty much whoever you want. Doesn't have to be the cheapest repair quote either.

Cut the hoses and replace them with new ones.

So what does the restrictor actually do to help it stop losing power? Did the boost read the same before and after?

If the car it has come off has similar mods you can probably get away with a tune similar to what has been programmed into it. What I plan on doing with mine is taking the map that I have (for a GTS-t with similar mods to mine) and maybe adjust everything to around the halfway point between this map and stock, and see what happens. Road tuning will be essential, but it should be a lot easier this way than having absolutely nothing to go off. Once everything is as good as I can get it, take it to the dyno and get a professional tuner to tweak it a bit more. Should cost a lot less than a full-blown tune from scratch.

Thanks! Doesn't sound too complicated then. I might give it a go soon.

Sold!

Wtf, so HSV is in a class of its own just because it has a leather interior? I guess this is where the argument ends. For the record, I like velour or cloth better than leather anyway. Doesn't freeze your arse off in winter and burn it off in summer. And doesn't stick to your legs and make you sweat like a pig.

Howso?

If I hadn't already pre-paid for mine I would take it for $1300 today! I paid a little less, but it's still 1-2 weeks away and I'd be willing to pay the extra to get it now now now! Anyone that's even thinking of getting a PowerFC is insane to pass this up for $1300