JimX

Tony, my PowerFC + Commander was supposed to be here last week so hopefully it will arrive soon enough, but I've never heard of this Datalogit thing before. What's it for? Joel, what's the memory cartridge for? $1620 for the unit+hand controller isn't too bad I guess, but still a few hundred bucks more than I paid for the PowerFC+hand controller. I guess I'll just have to wait and see if the PowerFC can do everything I need it to do.

"Only a light"? But that's all you need, surely? If there is no knock warning on the Wolf, that on its own would be enough to make me not want to get one. Are you adding in knock detection at some point? How much would it cost existing Wolf users to upgrade to be able to detect knock? Being able to detect knock I think is one of the most important things for people wanting to do a home/road tune. Not everyone can afford to fork over several hundred bucks to re-tune everytime they do something minor to their car like increase the boost or put in a bigger dump pipe etc.

I'm sure the Wolf has been discussed before, but only recently have people started speaking of the version 4 for Skylines. I was wondering about some of the more fundamental differences as they apply to Skylines, rather than the maximum amount of power you can get from each of them. Does anyone know anything about the following questions? 1. Does the Wolf do closed loop mode as efficiently as the PowerFC? I know that in the past most other ECUs couldn't compete with the PowerFC in fuel economy (cruising) mode. 2. Does the Wolf work properly with the climate control and HICAS etc? 3. How do the hand controllers of each compare? I've not really seen either of them, so which one is easier to use, and do they both show you enough on screen to make for a useful additional dash gauge? 4. If you have an older Wolf, can you upgrade it to a V4, and if so how much does it cost? 5. Does either of them have any fundamental advantages over the other? I know that the current Wolf has more load points, but looking at cars tuned with PowerFC's power curves, the amount the PowerFC seems to be more than adequate. I think having more tuning points would just mean more work. 6. How much is the Wolf with hand controller? That's about all I can think of now. Thanks in advance!

Yes, I've got one groove in mine. Who machines the extra grooves and how much does it cost? Wouldn't it affect the strength of the shock casing? It'd be good if I could see one that had this done from the factory, just to re-assure me that it would work fine without destroying my shocks

By "culture" it might be a socio-economic thing - ie, non-white people having less money and thus more likely to resort to stealing and being in gangs. I wouldn't say that I am racist, but I will readily admit that if I see a group of young men walking down the street, generally speaking I will be much more wary if they are asian or arab or islander than if they are white. Of course there are definitely exceptions, like if they were a bunch of white bikies or even drunk hooligans on a weekend (a group of white drunk men tends to be pretty scary). I was once almost mugged by a group of white australian youths in Tempe, but fear gives you legs Plus I think they were all clueless dorks and wouldn't have known what to do with me if they caught me so they didn't try very hard to catch up. But I am just speaking in general terms, which is perhaps why I said "ethnic minority" in the first place. I didn't mean to offend anyone. (knowing my luck I've probably offended people again anyway). For the record, I have several asian and arab friends and part asian myself.

I too am going to lie down.

I think I already have compressor surge I've been given this advice by someone who had a similar turbo to mine, but better matched: t4/t3, to4 compressor with a h trim wheel, vl turbo .63 exhaust housing with a copy of a sierra t3 wheel. I'll see how I go with what I have anyway, I might not have a bad turbo afterall but the PowerFC tune will determine what's wrong.

What I want to know is why are they so expensive? Are they possible to make yourself if you have some sort of plan?

I went to Autobarn (Auburn) for the first time last weekend to get some thermal wrap and the guy was friendly and helpful. He has a Skyline himself so we talked a bit about them and mods. He even recommended a good oil to get for my next service (Motul). I take this advice as being good as I was planning on getting Motul anyway The only "complaint" I guess I would have is about the prices of their performance gear. They sell a few different performance bits (including PowerFC's), but the price is usually quite high. Some of it was reasonable (Blitz dump pipe for around $300) but I think rather than keep stock of a limited amount of stuff they should offer a wider range and only get it in when the customer wants it. That would lower their costs (less stock on hand) and also give their customers better options. I think their PowerFC's without hand controller was around $2000.

Sorry, my bad :uhh: I thought this thread was this thread. He hasn't done a 1/4 mile run at the current rated power yet so his sig is somewhat misleading. Sorry about that!

How much does it cost to upgrade your exhaust housing? My compressor is fairly beefy at .6, but the rear looks a little small. Not sure of the size but it's noticably smaller than the front.

My car came with the Profec screwed down to the tray under the radio. I left it there, looks neat and I still have a bit of space next to it for whatever (I usually use the centre console anyway). If I had to mount it again I think I might put it under the dash around where my left knee is, if that makes sense. That's where I had my S-AFC mounted. But I can't be stuffed moving it now. I don't know how my boost gauge is set up, but I *think* it comes from the plenum. And I think the EBC gets its boost from the intake side on a separate line.

51jay, did you read the whole thread?

Nah if I was going to do that I would have done it much earlier in the piece. I didn't think it was that because GTS-t VSPEC seemed pretty confident that the dyno was accurate enough to not have such a wide margin of error. And I know he's not "stupid" so until proven otherwise I am choosing to take his word for it

GTS-t VSPEC, glad we got that sorted

I'm not disputing that at all, in fact I wholeheartedly agree. What are you arguing with me about exactly? I really don't understand (and haven't for yours and Steve's past few posts)

I think you guys misunderstand me. I'm not implying that the dyno GTS-t VSPEC's car was done on reads "high". I am talking of why some workshops might jack up their figures. The question was asked "Why would they do it?" and I was answering that question, nothing more. Emre, good call "don't know any better" it is then (although they will probably use their dyno printout to impress their "don't know any better" friends )

Oh, I was thinking of it you came across them in a car park or the like. I think if I busted someone breaking into my garage, I would get them arrested and then move houses asap afterwards. One of the advantages of renting I guess.

Who do you mean by "we all"? Everyone in this forum, or everyone you know? Workshops that have "higher" dyno readings will often make a judgement call based on their customer base. If they get a lot of n00bers in, they may as well jack it up to get more customers in. Why else would they inflate their figures other than to try convincing people that they are a better workshop? You or I may know better, but we are probably in the minority. People in general are stupid.

Steve - definitely not I'm one of the people who know better. I accept that my fuel system is leaning out at its current setup regardless of whether it's really 214rwkw or 200 or 240. The shape of my power curve is the thing I really want to fix, not the highest numbers. When I get my PowerFC and put my 550's in I might get Unigroup to tune it, not because their dyno reads higher (I've got nfi of how high or low it reads) but because I've heard good things about their ability from other forum-goers, and their prices are reasonable. I won't care what the final figure is like, the shape of the power curve is much more important.

I think you have to make a judgement call based on how your car is being jacked/stolen. If it's a lone guy with some sort of hand tool threatening you through the window, then I'd say your car would be worth fighting for. But if he has a gun or if there is a bunch of them, might be better all round just to give it up. Try some stealthy tricks like already mentioned, like taking the keys out and hitting the panic alarm once you've legged it away a bit. Of course, if you discover someone breaking into your car, a king hit and a trip to hospital (for them) is in order

It is definitely worth their while, if they are tuning cars whose owners don't know any better. People will look at the dyno readout and think the tuning shop is better than the competition, just because their dyno readout is better. Think about it - all other things being equal, which are you more likely to go back to? The one that says your car puts out 200rwkw or the one that says it puts out 230rwkw?

Just get a Maglite.

I put a HKS actuator on my turbo to help with holding boost. It's now set to a minimum of around 10psi or so, and maximum of 25+ (at a guess). It's got a thread on it so I can loosen it off as much as I want, but I set it to around 10psi to minimise the work that EBC has to do (set to 14psi). The standard actuator is only rated to around 8psi I think. You should be able to get up to 12 or 14 out of it normally, but being as old as they are they tend to weaken with age. You could try throwing a bed spring on if you want to do it cheaply.

Jimbo, 1000rpm idle is too high unless your engine stalls at a lower rpm (a/m cams for example maybe). Try setting it to around 700 or so and see if it gives you any issues. The lower the idle speed you can get, the better. Teka, I have nfi what transmission fluid will do in your fuel, but whatever the alleged benefits, don't you think you would be better off buying some proper injector cleaner?