JimX

Try increasing your negative camber on the front, or getting adjustable radius rods to increase your castor further. I know you've got the Whiteline castor bushes, but they only add about 0.5 degrees to the angle.

Hmm, I can see now why the side feeds I got which look almost brand new have a few chunks of plastic out from where they have been levered out of the rail

What car are you comparing it to? My R33's steering feels sharper than a friend's new XR8, but I imagine it wouldn't feel as sharp as say, a new Integra. Have you also got thicker swaybars on? They will help reduce body roll which you might interpret as steering "sharpness". Also your tyre choice and tyre pressures will affect response.

You've used Ultimates and you still call the RB74's dusty? They do have a bit of dust, but I would say 1/10th than what the Ultimates have. With the RB74's I have to wash my wheels once every couple of months instead of once a week.

Do the DBA4000's also have the kangaroo paw ventillation?

I bought my S-AFC and Apexi pod from him around a year ago. This was at a time where the Apexi pods to fit Skylines were rare as rocking horse sh*t, and he took over a week to track one down for me. I couldn't find one locally at all except on one website adveritising them for like $395, and mine ended up costing under $100 including postage from Nengun.

Ok, chill pill consumed

I'll keep that in mind if I ever decide to go racing at Waneroo. Seriously, what are you trying to accomplish with the above statement? Edit: I respect your car (411rwhp is impressive) and I respect your choice of ECU, but why do you have to slag off other people's choices, without even providing any substantial evidence of why your choice was better? The Wolf is probably better for you, and it probably is better for people at Waneroo. But why does that make the PowerFC crap? I think that the fact that there are so many really defensive Wolf people in here can only mean they're a little insecure about its shortcomings.

200rwkw out of a 300hp turbo is not a bad effort

They're getting sold for $350 on Ebay, if he can wait a few more days try selling it there. Remember there are a lot more cars than Skylines that can use these things, so there's more demand for them on Ebay than in specific forums.

What's all this talk about pills? Have we got dealers in here?

Yeah I think I'll trace the line on the weekend. I was thinking it must be a leak but then wondered why it would read positive at all. It must be easier to suck than blow through the hole

The other day I noticed my Autometer boost gauge would sit on around zero or -1 or -2 psi when my foot was off the accelerator. It used to read much lower than this. My EBC still reads -0.5 bar like it always has. I also noticed that my factory gauge which is still hooked up into the same line also reads around the same as the Autometer one, when it also used to read lower for more vacuum. Going off the EBC's reading of -0.5, I should be getting around -7psi or so, it in fact used to read anywhere between -10 and -15 or so on the Autometer under vacuum. Does anyone know what might have happened? I don't think the gauge itself is at fault otherwise the factory gauge would still be displaying more vacuum like it used to. As far as I know it's still reading correctly when under boost, but I haven't had the chance to floor it lately to be absolutely sure.

Are the pintles the plastic caps on the end of the injectors? Is there an easy way to tell if they are damaged or not?

Let's just forget about the number of loads points for a minute, because I actually agree that it's not even the main concern here. It seems the Wolf people have jumped back on this issue while cotinuing to ignore the other stuff Sydneykid mentioned. Primarily, number of injector outputs, base map, idle compensation, and dash warning lights. Even with the above issues, I can imagine where the Wolf might be better - for example, if you have a track car requiring a lot of in-house tuning, the easier to use software and better hand controller interface have got to be a fundamental advantage. Even if you aren't pressed for time between mods and in-house tuning, the easier tuning methods might seal the decision for you. I have to agree with what Steve-SST said - "Wolf and Power fc are very good ECUs for your Skylines, Pick the one that suits you and know that you have a good ECU either way you choose to go but check facts for your self". Checking the facts is the whole reason I started this thread so I thank everyone for providing info on both ECUs. But with all that said, I don't think you say that one is better than the other for everything. I have to admit that before Sydneykid posted, the only thing I thought the Wolf was deficient on was the knock sensor, but now I am more learned

Thanks again Emre. Back onto the Wolf - after reading the brochures on Wolf's site, it says "Up to 6 ignition outputs (model specific)" which seems to be the only thing updated on the Wolf since Sydneykid last used it.

Thanks Emre. What else can't you get to with the hand controller?I think I'll have to borrow Tony's Datalogit at some point

Steve-SST, I have to disagree with you this time. I don't believe Sydneykid has shot his mouth off at all. He has quoted (I believe honestly) his past experience with the Wolf. He has even said that it may have been updated since he last used it. However until someone like yourself comes along and tells us exactly WHICH of the issues he found were fixed or updated, it's safe to say that at least some of the Wolf ECU's still around have these problems. Ok so you have stated that the current Wolf has 6 sequential ignition points, so that's one thing fixed in the latest release. What about the rest? Flaming Sydneykid is not going to make the Wolf look any better - if anything it looks like you're trying to cover stuff up.

Ed, are you serious?! He listed at least 5 - Bad base map, no dash light warning system, potential overheating of coils, errors on the TPS circuit, and incomplete idle compensation. At least one of those is definitely still there, that being the lack of dash board warning light (no knock sensor). The rest may have been fixed by now or may be soon, we don't know yet until someone replies here.

Thanks for that info Gary. It's the small stuff like you listed above that sets different ECU's apart - You could have a "perfect" ECU with infinite resolution, but it would start to become less useful due to something small but significant like having a processor operating at half the speed of its competitor with less resolution, or not fully compensating for all loads at idle. It would be interesting to see if the current Wolf has addressed all the above, so I guess we just sit and wait for Steve-SST's reply Whatever the case, I'm sure the Wolf will eventually get all the above resolved if it hasn't done so already. It's just a question of when. Btw, I read a review of the PowerFC recently and they were unable to find any menus with temperature compensation for air or water. Was it just that they didn't know where to find it, or can you not do it with the hand controller?

Maybe the truck driver was racist and he had it in for black cars

So they're all just a bunch of neurotic steering wheel pickers then?

Sly covered pretty much everything, but if you want a rough idea of what order to do it in, maybe something along the lines of the following: Exhaust ECU (whether full replacement or piggyback, depending on budget) Electronic boost controller (or you can opt for a cheap bleed valve, in which case put this 1st or 2nd on the list) Front-mount intercooler Fuel pump/injectors/Turbo (all depends on the state of your fuel system)

Because by and large, speeding fines and licence suspensions are an absolute crock. I've been driving for over 15 years now, and I've only ever lost 1 point for doing 72 in a 60 zone. So yeah it was way back before it became a 2 point offence, and it was also from a car-mounted camera which flashed me from the front at night. ie, also back before they decided it was dangerous to do this. I currently have all my points available. I do however open it up fairly regularly, and since you lose your licence for doing 20+ over the limit these days I would have lost my licence thousands of times over if I had been busted everytime. But I only speed when it's safe, and only for very short periods of time, ie, to get away from idiots or to overtake slow moving trucks and cars etc. If there are people who can get off speeding fines when they know they were driving safely (but speeding) then I would congratulate them, not put them down for trying. My advice to anyone else wanting to speed but keep their licence - do it safely and only for short stints, and check your mirrors to make sure there are no cops behind you before you floor it. It's not foolproof because you might not notice or the cops might be in unmarked cars, but it has definitely helped me a lot over the years. Don't hoon through blind corners or crests, that's just dangerous for everyone involved. Get into the habit of going no higher than 5kph over the limit unless you're in Victoria. Five over should be enough to keep you in front of the slowpokes, and just ignore all the hoons going past you at higher speeds.

I've heard that it's because a lot of Japanese are fond of the bling bling and wear lots of gold rings which may cause excessive wear on the wheel. There are exceptions to the rule though, mine was in excellent condition when I got it, and is virtually the same now (I don't wear any rings or pick at the wheel with my fingernails). You might be able to see some small wear on the right on mine in this pic, this is from where the previous owner attached the "overboost" button for the boost controller. I never used it so I removed it.