JimX

Why didn't I think of the fuse box? Thanks for that!

I'm thinking of getting a new 3 point immobiliser alarm because my current one has a stuffed remote and I'm sick of fiddling around with it constantly to get it working. The alarm also does some strange things sometimes, like giving false alarms, so I figure I'll just start fresh with a whole new system. I'm wondering how hard is it to wire up the immobilisers yourself? Do they all splice into the main loom which goes into the ECU? If so, can someone please tell me which wires are for fuel, starter, and ignition? Also let me know of the best place to splice them, and any issues I might have, particularly with not zapping anything important (and expensive).

R33 boxes don't need strengthening unless you're pumping out over 600hp or so. How much power do you want it to handle? If it's over 600 then you might want to try a different box altogether. If the box is shagged then just buy a second hand one in good condition and you should be ok. Make sure you run some good oil through it. If you are just fixing up worn synchros, I imagine any transmission specialist could do it.

Comments like this just shit me off. THERE IS A SHITLOAD MORE TO SKYLINES THAN THE ****ING TURBO!!!! It's this guy's first car FFS. Skylines are nice cars, turbos or not. If he can afford an R34 non turbo then I don't see any problem other than insurance. I wouldn't recommend he get a Skyline for his first car, but it's his choice and being his first car I wouldn't say a non turbo is a waste of money. So why come up with useless bullshit comments like the above?

Don't pay more than $200, and don't go to one of those big franchise places like Premier tinting, Solace, etc. With these you are only paying for their advertising budgets and profteering of the franchise owners. Cheap does not necessarily mean bad. Make sure you get these 2 things for your $200 or less: (1) Metallised, non-dye based film, preferably made in the US. (2) Lifetime warranty. Shop around, you will find lots of places that will do all the above. Also go for 20% tint if you can find it. It doesn't look too dark, but is much better for privacy and keeping the heat out. 35% looks hardly tinted at all. I've never heard of anyone being busted for 20% tints.

Tuners don't tune it on full throttle, they run it up and down the rev range and see where the AFR's are all throughout, and adjust each load point as necessary. What's hard to do on a dyno though is simulate driving it down the road. ie, at 100kph the car is going to have more air rushing into the intake than at 5kph. That's why they usually put a bigass fan at the front of the car, to try making the airflow a bit more realistic (and to keep things cool)

I thought all R32 injectors were top-feed, but the early ones were low impedance and the later ones were high impedance? If someone needs high impedance injectors, I may be selling my set of RX7 injectors in a few weeks. I just have to make sure my side-feeds go in ok after my PowerFC arrives, and if so I will write up a new post about them. All the usual stuff, cleaned, flowtested (all within 1%), new Orings and screens, etc. Sorry for the pimpage, but it's not contesting with these injectors because GTR uses low impedance. And I might not even sell them yet

Murhpy's law always applies to cars! Can you feel the 30kw loss or is this just what the dyno is telling you? Try to find out if any settings were changed between runs (I presume this was all done on the same dyno). A boost leak should show up on your boost gauge so that should be pretty easy to eliminate. How did you know that your coil packs were stuffed? I'm just wondering how you got +40kw if they weren't working properly. Maybe the replacements are even worse than the ones you replaced? Try the old ones again and see if it goes back to how it was. Also what plugs did you use and at what gap? At 1 bar they should be 0.7 or 0.8mm. If it's an early series 1, check the igniter as well.

Can you supply the rest or recommend someone who can? Rough price?

I've been gradually doing a lot of the 100k stuff along the way so when the big 100 hit, I only paid $60 That's oil+filter, labour supplied by me. The timing belt was changed by the previous owner at 81k, so hopefully he changed the water pump as well. If not I'll just wait for it to fail then change it, in my experience they usually leak slowly and gradually get worse as they wear out. I also haven't changed any ancillary belts, they still look very good and were probably done when the timing belt was changed. Hoses are also pretty good. Other things I've done recently or just after I got the car a year ago: Gearbox, clutch, brake, and diff fluids, plugs, air filter, fuel filter, idle and TPS adjust, plus other small things I can't remember. I forgot the power steering pump fluid in all this so I should do that soon. If your car is around 80-90k or so, it's worth doing most of the above before you need to so that you don't get slugged with a bigass $1000 bill when the car gets to 100k. A lot of it you can do yourself at home with a bit of know-how. If your belt hasn't already been changed then that will be the only thing you'll need to pay for at 100k. $200-300 is a lot less than $750-$1400.

I'm always wary of places that force you to use one of their repairers, but I guess it all depends on the discount on the premium as to whether or not it's worthwhile. I would be willing to bet that I could shovel a few extra bucks to the repairer to make sure that a quality job was done, should the need arise. Do you know if AON will insure cars for a good price in Sydney? One of the big plusses of Famous is they are much less Sydney-phobic than other insurance companies. My girlfriend's dad lives in a really dodgy suburb, and his premium is about 1/4 the value of his car with a major insurance company (maximum NCB, >50 years old). My Skyline isn't even insurable in the same suburb with the same company. Famous charge me less than 10% of my vehicle's agreed value for my premium, and I'm a lot younger than my gf's dad

I've never heard of an injector that can't be cleaned, but there's a first time for everything Just try a bottle of that injector cleaner stuff you buy in spare parts shops then. I find Nulon to be the best. You can pick up an S-AFC for around $300-350 second hand, there's usually a few guys in these forums selling theirs. Or you can try Ebay, but the delay in buying is longer and the prices are usually higher due to non-Skyline people also wanting to buy them. Installing should take around an hour (so whatever your local workshop's hourly rate is) and dyno tuning around maybe $100-$150. So budget for around $600 or less all-up. Edit: You can install the S-AFC yourself if you're handy with a soldering iron, I did mine myself.

It sounds like also that your injectors might be a bit clogged. Try getting them cleaned and see if that helps. I recently sold my S-AFC pending the delivery of my PowerFC, and I was expecting something similar to happen to my car when going back to the unmod'd factory ECU, because I've got a Bosch 044 pump in the tank (probably the same as yours). But surprisingly it's been really good, and my economy hasn't even suffered. This is the evidence I would use to suggest that there might be something else affecting the problem. Installing and tuning a S-AFC will definitely help. But I think you should also clean your injectors Edit: Just noticed your AFR's. Not exceeding 12:1 is ok, although I think it can safely go above this at low rpm (cruising) to save fuel. 10.5:1 is too rich. Use a S-AFC or the like to bring it above 11.5 or so in upper rev ranges. 12 is optimal, but 11.5 will give you a bit of a safer mixture for summer.

Please excuse my ignorance Is that HKS? I'm just stupid with letters, because I know Garrett also use GT but I don't think they use 2540. Also, does it come with anything else like water and oil fittings or just the turbo itself?

It's good to see that there are some universal things in this world

So that's about A$7k? That's a pretty good price even if it were stock, for Australia. Are you keeping it in Japan though? Be wary of the tight quality control they have on their cars there, it might need some work to pass the next rego inspection (every 3 years isn't it?). Also the inspection itself costs quite a lot, pass or fail. I'm sure you know more about this than me anyway

Mase, are they postage costs if you send them all individually, or is that for if you send the lot and it's divided by the amount of people in each state wanting one? I'm confused, let me know how much extra to include for shipping I'm happy to pick up. I will DD you enough money for front+rear+shipping to Zman for pickup.

You're only paying $150 and you're asking if you should bother or not?! Dude, even if you bought it and never installed it, you could immediately sell it for $200-300 profit easy. Just get it, no question needs to be asked! But yeah I think you should install it once you get it rather than immediately selling it

Craved, what insurance company was that? If you are worried about possible libel, pm me One of the big advantages of going with a smaller insurance company like Torque or Famous is it reduces your odds of having an accident with someone from the same company. Whenever that happens they tend to screw both parties around

I think ANYONE would recommend the PowerFC over the S-AFC if they could afford it. The real question is it worth going without any ECU modification at all until you save up the required $1100+ for the PowerFC? My answer would be definitely not. If you are strapped for cash then get a 2nd hand S-AFC then sell it for what you paid for it and buy a PowerFC after you've saved up the rest. But if you are sick of shovelling money into the bottomless pit that cars are, be happy with the S-AFC. It's better than nothing and a good place to stop at for ECU mods. My S-AFC was installed for free. By me

Depends on your budget and what you want to do. I got +30rwkw out of my S-AFC, but at higher boost experienced boost cut.

I didn't want a mechanic, just a spare parts shop that had high pressure half inch fuel hose. There used to be a few of them around, but a lot have closed down lately.

How'd you fix it?

I've only got my last 5L container from my last oil change. So I'm about 3 containers or 15L short I'd go the 5W-40 stuff. How much is it?

As long as you can tell me of a good way to get rid of the old oil, I would be interested in 20L drums I guess all you'd need is another empty 20L drum to pour the old stuff into? Then chuck it out when it's full.