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Everything posted by JimX
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Tony, it's in the first post
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So where do you get them from? I rang Repco and he found the item, but no price. They are going to ring me back tomorrow. Can anyone get trade prices for SAU people? I know that Repco like to mark their stuff up a lot.
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Where do you get them from?
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I want one too. (don't care about passenger!) I think they only came for the driver's side anyway? Well I saw a series 2 recently and it didn't have one. Maybe he removed it.
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It's all now working, thanks to the auto electrician guy that came around. There was a bodgy (non working) 12V feed into the ignition cluster which he found and isolated, but there was no way to trace it back to the source. So he rigged up a new set of wires from the fuse panel, and put a new inline fuse in that. Soldered up what needed to be soldered and put terminals in where needed, and it's now all good. It can't really happen again because the wire is now very short and right at the fuse panel. About the only thing that can happen is the fuse will blow. But if anything in that area should happen again I should be able to figure it out myself.
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INASNT I did the 30 minute idle thing and it seemed ok, but then it started to have a mind of its own. Is there a way to reset the idle self-learning thing again without reseting the whole unit?
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My boost gauge has the wires run down the side between the dash and door kind of. It ends up behind the panel and out of sight, no extra holes drilled. Just one hole for mounting.
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Hmm, I can't see how your economy wouldn't suffer from turning that off. My idle isn't bad enough that I'm willing to sacrifice economy. I think I'll leave it on. Maybe the O2 sensor is faulty? Or would the PowerFC detect the fault and give you a warning light? I'm sure mine is fixable without sacrificing economy, it probably just needs a professional to tune correctly.
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What are the side effects if you turn the O2 Feedback off? I'll also give that increased cranking injector time a go as well.
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I've got the same problem, although it is still better than the stock ECU. Sometimes it will die soon after starting, and I have to give the accelerator pedal a few pumps to get it to idle properly for maybe 10 seconds or so when cold. But it's not always like this when cold for some reason. My idle setting doesn't seem to do anything either, the car seems to idle wherever it likes, and it changes every so often up or down. I might have a faulty idle control motor or something.
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Hehe, when I read the subject I thought you had gone to Yass and the McDonalds there was out of order
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The broken horn thing on these cars is a very common problem. I keep having to remind myself when I want to bash the horn button after some bastard cuts me off!
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Gap the plugs to 0.8 and try again. Or even try your old plugs and see if that improves anything, maybe the new plugs are of the wrong heat range.
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I've got stock injectors and the AFM is maxing out before the injectors. The injectors get up to 93% duty though, so they are being upgraded along with the AFM anyway. A rising rate regulator should do the job well enough for a mild power increase.
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not having front number plate. legal or illegal?
JimX replied to Bassit's topic in General Maintenance
Wow, that's a good idea. We should all deliberately mangle our plates and keep them under the seat and use the same story -
I paid $55 for my 8100 5W-40 from Autobarn. I didn't get a free cap, but I don't think it'd be worth the extra $15 anyway
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Why?!?!?!?!?!?
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The cold weight number isn't too important for our cars. Fifteen is probably a bit too thick, but there are still people running 15W-XX oil and don't seem to have any problems. They would probably start having problems if they lived in the mountains in the winter though. I've never heard of anyone else in here or anywhere else having problems with 0W-XX to 15W-XX oil in their car. The hot weight number is the important one. Unless you like to flog your car when the engine is cold, then the cold number might start becoming important.
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Ok, I'm thinking about doing this again myself now, but now I have a few more questions. 1. How hard is it to change the timing of the gear once it's installed? 2. How do you get the tension off the belt so that the cam wheel will go in? Can you push on the belt tensioner or something to get enough slack? Hm, that's about it. I'm just finding cash hard to come by these days so I'm thinking that I will do all the hard work myself and save the bucks for the tune
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It was actually shitting me off for awhile, because that stretch on Victoria Rd often has a booze bus on it on weekends. I was thinking how lucky that SOB was to not get done then and there, and even when I saw the fire dept ute I was cursing that it wasn't a cop car. Then he put his siren and lights on, which just made me smile. Another lesson learned here is don't hoon around fire dept vehicles
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Finally... This has to be the first time I have seen a complete ****tard get busted on the road. It wasn't by a cop though. I was driving home with my gf and a housemate, when suddenly a van in the right hand lane going north over Gladesville bridge swerved through the solid lines and cut in straight front of me in the left lane. At first I just thought he was an arsehole/prick, but then he started drifting out of his lane repeatedly. This continued for around a km up Victoria Rd (I dropped well back), when I then noticed a red ute with red lights on top in the lane to my left. It was a fire department ute. I'm not sure if he saw the first incident or not but it was obvious to everyone that this guy was off his face on something. The ute then put his lights on and siren and flashed his lights. The guy in the van took another half minute or so to realise that he was being pulled over and finally pulled over. We didn't stick around to find out what happened then. Now, I don't think that fire department cars can't book people, but after thinking about it I'm pretty sure he radio'd ahead for a cop and then when confirming that one was on its way he would just pull the guy up and detain him until the cop could come along and book him. Or if he couldn't detain him (legally or otherwise) then just follow him and keep radioing the cops with where they were at. I hope the guy gets the book thrown at him!
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R31Heaven, that's a better explanation I had a feeling that was what you were trying to describe, but the way you worded it it sounded like you meant the second number was the temperature in degrees C at which the oil started to break down. But then you said that it's an arbitrary number and described the viscosity better, which is the same as what I understood it as being. So it was just misunderstanding on my part. Sorry 'bout that!
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R31Heaven I'm not sure if you are describing the same thing. The numbers in the weight rating do not translate directly into temperatures. The cold number is the weight at 0 degrees F (-18 degrees C) and the hot number is at 210 degrees F (99 degrees C). The reason for the split numbers is for multigrade oils. Not all oils are like this, but the ones we use in our cars are. All oil thins as it heats up. The oils with the higher hot weight number just means it doesn't get as thin as an oil which was the same grade of the lower number. I'm not sure if this is what you were trying to say, but "the higher numbers is the temp that it starts to loose its thicknes/viscosity" is incorrect. The temperature of what, anyway? The coolant or the atmopshere or the oil itself? There's no way that engine oil only goes up to 30-60 degrees. It's several hundred degrees in the combustion chamber.