JimX

As Zero mentioned, I was thinking that a bigass capacitor would do the same thing. In fact that's all it might be in that metal box Although there may be some complicated voltage regulator type thing in there. But I doubt it is worth $450, especially if other people are selling them for US$30. (B1) MR_fanny, why did you earth the turbo?!

Umm, dude? Does this mean mine has arrived too?

The DET engine has oil squirters in the piston bores, which I think the DE doesn't have. If so, you will probably find yourself with a variety of piston overheating problems, which you won't even know about until something ****s up bigtime. ie, it's not just that your coolant temperature gauge will read higher than if you didn't have the squirters. If you really want to do this, the best way (seriously) is to buy a GTS-t front-cut, transplant the whole front end including gearbox and brakes into your car, then sell all the leftover bits to recoup a few hundred bucks. A front cut can be had for around $2k I believe, which I think is a bargain compared to buying all the necessary bits separately and then shoehorning them in. The process of swapping everything over should also be a lot simpler than modifying your existing engine.

I would - petrol is carcinogenic, especially premium unleaded. I would never tell anyone to not worry about petrol smell coming into the cabin. If you can smell any while you are driving along it is bad news!

Well, it does But give or take depending on what year model and what options it has.

There's a 2530 done around 8000km in the FS forum now for under $2k. Not a bad price.

Braided lines wouldn't help, because it's just metal meshed together and is not liquid proof at all. Braiding is just used for adding strength to the hoses so they don't expand as much under pressure, which isn't really your problem. I would try finding the source of the leak. It probably is around any rubber bits you can find, although there may also be a pinhole or 2 in the tank welds. It could just be that you need better quality fuel hose to stop the smell coming through. Out of interest, what pump did you have on the surge tank? Was it noisy?

It depends on which series and year it was made. The R33 GTS-t coupe weighs in at 1360-1370 usually, with the sedan coming at 20kg more on all variants (which is where the 1390kg weight would fit in). The series 2 R32 Type M coupes weigh in at 1320. I don't know why they added 60kg on between series 1 and 2 for the R32 but it's gotta be the worst of both worlds. The power of an R32 with the weight of an R33 Equipment like turbos, bigger brakes, active LSD, ABS, air bags, bodykits, sunroofs, etc all add weight, so it's impossible to say "all R33's weigh Xkg and all R32's weigh Ykg." It varies by a fair amount.

SLY33, it probably depends on the mounting. They have to modify the bracket to get it to fit so depending on what they did it probably affects the noise. I just bent mine back and to the right to get mine to fit, and this has probably helped. Also if it's in a surge tank it will be noisy-as because most of the noise insulation comes from the fuel tank when mounted internally. Mine is only quiet because it's muffled by the tank.

If you have really small metal shavings, chances are they will get burnt off when the engine fires. What you can do if you do drop some small particles in there is put a compressed air line into the hole (not sealing it in) and switch it on. This will pressurise the cylinder with air and hopefully blow out whatever is in there. The same way that you can put a small scrunched up bit of paper into the neck of a bottle on its side and try blowing it out with your mouth. It'll come straight back out rather than blowing into the bottle. Of course, small particles may stick in the oil in the cylinder or fall down onto the rings, so it might not get everything out.

I've found carbon buildup to be really hard to remove. I think for a start a wire brush would be a lot better than a toothbrush, but even then I have worn out more than 2 wire brushes before I was able to clean carbon off something once. I'm not sure what sort of solvent disolves it, but finding the right type would be the first step I think. I know that carbie cleaner doesn't cut it, nor does turps or methelated spirits. The best place to ask would be your local spare parts shop, they probably have some stuff designed specifically to disolve carbon. Are you sure you need to clean the other 5 cylinders though? If they all went in all the way they should be fine.

A possum committed suicide under my wheels a couple of weeks ago. I was coming home late at night, was going about 5kph under the speed limit for a gently curve (who says speed kills? ) and I suddenly noticed a possum at the edge of my headlights, sitting on the white dividing line. I thought "he'll be ok as long as he stays there" as I lifted my foot off the accelerator to slow down some more but then a split second later he WALKED right in front of me! As soon as I saw him start walking I could have swerved, but I think I just would have hit the railing and written my car off. I totally froze, by the time I took my foot off the accelerator to put the brakes on he had gone under both right wheels. I was totally in shock for the poor possum. When I got home I inspected the car for bits of possum or blood but I couldn't find any. The next day (afternoon) I went past the same bit of road and I couldn't find any trace of the possum. It started to make me wonder if I had imagined the whole thing. Or maybe I just ran over his tail or something (crosses fingers).

You only need one or the other, not both. The S-AFC only controls fuel mixtures, the PowerFC does a lot more like ignition timing and boost. You also might want to consider the Wolf, check the other threads that are going around in this forum The one you want to get depends on how much you want to spend. $350 or so for a 2nd hand S-AFC, or $1100+ for a 2nd hand PowerFC or Wolf.

Rotational idle wouldn't be that hard to implement would it? If they put that in along with a knock sensor that would be a very good reason to upgrade from PowerFC to Wolf Edit: Hmm, in the thread linked to below, GTS-t VSPEC says the Wolf does support rotational idle? So does it or doesn't it?

I've got an 044 and it's very quiet, except sometimes it makes weird noises when the fuel level drops below the pump. I put it down to it not being that secure in the tank mounting so it has a chance to resonate a bit when in the air. One of these days I will pull it out again and put it back in properly! I've heard from a couple of people that even the 044 is a quieter pump than a GTR pump, so I wouldn't be overly worried if the GTR pump is noisy.

It depends. Mine is leaning out at 14psi, but others can run up to 16-18psi. The only way to really be sure is to get a tuning shop to run it up on the dyno and experiment with different boost levels. Retarding the timing can also let you run higher boost, at the cost of low-down power. Edit: Btw, this is assuming stock turbo or mild upgrade. If you put a real bigass turbo on, you will probably start leaning out after 8 or 10psi. More power=more fuel required.

Incorrect. I have a 7250i and it definitely has a camera on the back. It is basically the upgraded version of the 7250, NOT a downgraded version! The camera is even better than the one on the 7250 as I already said. If you still don't believe me, take a look at the Nokia site itself. The one "without the camera" is the old 7210, which is what the 7250 was upgraded into.

The 7250i has a camera, and with extra features like night shot mode. The 7250i is the replacement for the 7250. It's worth more than the 7250, which has been fully superseded. There are other enhancements on the 7250i but I'm not sure of what they are.

Would one of those Jaycar LED knock sensors be good enough to use in conjunction with the Wolf?

Doesn't the hand controller have a readout for the knock level?

Well, I'm sure that any cost savings that Steve could give me on programming the Wold would be more than negated by the travel costs between Sydney and Perth I won't be able to tell my AF ratio with a road tune, but I will have the knock sensor to keep it safe. Then when in the rough area of making good power without pinging, I'll take it to Unigroup or somewhere for fine tuning. Hopefully should cost under $200.

Well, dyno costs will be high no matter what ECU you have - workshops charge for time spent on the dyno rather than $X for X type of ECU. I plan on keeping those costs down by doing as much road tuning as I can before taking it into the workshop for fine tuning - but without a knock sensor on the Wolf I wouldn't be able to do that unless I bought the external knock sensor. How much does that cost and how does it interface with the Wolf? Do you think in the next version they will allow it to read the factory knock sensors?

Well, I've already got a GReddy Profec boost controller, so the Wolf has no advantage there. The thing is, the Wolf costs $1600 with hand controller and has no knock sensor. I'm paying around $300 less than that for a PowerFC with Commander (2nd hand). If I could have found a second hand Wolf for less than that I might have considered it, but there didn't seem to be any around at the time I had the money ready. All I can do is see how frustrated (or not) I get with the PowerFC, and if so then contemplate selling it and getting a Wolf.

I don't buy into that at all. If I did, I would still be driving a Commodore. If the product is good then let it stand on its own merits, don't try to emotionally blackmail people into getting it. Anyway as I've already said, I've already put the money down for the PowerFC. If the Wolf ever gets a knock sensor implemented I may consider changing over, but not because it's Australian. It'll have to be because the PowerFC isn't doing what I want it to do.

Well, Steve-SST is reading this thread, I guess that's as good as emailing them The only reason I'm looking at the Wolf is in case the PowerFC doesn't do everything I want it to. I've got one on order (should have arrived last week but was delayed) but I would consider selling it and getting a Wolf if I found that there were some fundamental advantages to the Wolf, and I could do a changeover without much of a price difference. I'll just have to wait and see how I go with the PowerFC once it arrives.