sbyder

I got the car back and just had to hook up the overdrive light to the dash which is now complete. I had a boost leak on a metal gasket near the intercooler which sounded very very strange. I couldnt find it after a few minutes of looking and tightening every clamp, so i plugged up the intercooler pipes with a can of beer and pumped in a few psi of compressed air. Found it quick flash. I knew beer was good for something Remaining things to complete: Put gas in the A/C Get the centre consol panels painted/woodgrained Put the interior back together and clean it up Replace a broken wheel stud Machine all discs and bleed the brakes Align the steering wheel and full wheel alignment New wheels and tyres Mod plate, Safety certificate and registration Cruise time!

should be getting the cedric back tomorrow

no interest?

Decat pipe taken from an Autech S15 (non turbo). Condition is good. No holes. Welds are still perfect. Suited to R33's and S15's. You may need to install a sensor hole for the R33 temp sensor. Pickup for $60 or i can post to you for $80. Strathpine (North Brisbane) Ben 0417 366 372

My black cedric should be finished in a couple of weeks and i'll be looking to sell it. It will be RB25DET NEO with 4 speed auto, full factory tan leather and woodgrain.

indeed. Engine Sold. Thanks for the sale.

cant believe it hasnt sold yet!

now listed on ebay for 2K starting price!

Does anyone recommend a transmission specialist in the Brisbane area to look at my gearbox. I believe it may have solenoid faults and want the box checked over. cheers Ben

sounds like you got the same one as me plus a couple. Your issues seems to be your TCS is not hooked up properly. I dont even have TCS and its getting code 16.

Needs one thing fixed and i cant work it out so where have you taken your car to get an annoying gremlin fixed and who should i stay away from? Someone that deals with a lot of conversions would be ideal as my engine conversion is a bit unique. thanks a lot. Ben

I know this is a tricky one to answer. Would that code cause the auto to go into limp mode?

The car was holding 3rd gear (limp mode) then out of the blue one day i took it for a drive and it worked fine changing gears etc... Then the next day and ever since its stuck in limp mode again. Without even doing a self diagnostic, when i hit ~5km/h the power light flashes once long then flashes quickly 16 times. I've searched and found it is: Motor throttle switch signal circuit - Abnormal correlation is detected between input voltages from the throttle motor sensor and from the motor throttle switch for a predermined time. I've also had a scanner on and cleared the code 003b: Throttle controller COMM. Which returned as soon as the engine was turned off and back on again. I have converted a vehicle with a VQ30DET with an electric throttle to an RB25DET NEO with a normal cable throttle with no traction or other controls near the throttle except the TPS. I would assume that since the ECU, engine, tranny and engine bay loom swapped over from the donor half cut, the ECU would not need a throttle control motor? Its very strange that it worked once, but not again. Anyone have any ideas on how to bypass the code or what the cause maybe? Any help is muchly appreciated. Ben

My black cedric drives again! Just have to make an exhaust for it, swap the dif over from the donor cut and its complete. Then i need to find some rims and rego. Its been a long haul and i dont recommend it to anyone, but at least it will be unique and easy to modify engine wise.

well done. Looks a little different then when I had it in the workshop.

this is an easy one to answer. Because Nissan make the change slow, they need an ignition cut to reduce wear on the clutch packs/belts. Its the same on Toyota's. If you put in a shift kit then the change will be a lot quicker and the ECU will not need to cut ignition for as long.

yes my original car had ABS and all the chassis and ABS loom has not changed. I have simply added the engine, transmission, ECU and loom and adapted the 2 automatic plugs into the chassis loom for the automatic to work properly. The cedric has a VDU like the Series 2 stagea's so when it powers up, the ABS error comes up on the screen as well as the light on the dash. If the ATESSA ECU is the ABS ECU and i am missing the ATESSA ECU, maybe ABS is actually working but the ATESSA is obviously not causing the error to come up on the screen. Strange issue and i think i might be the 1st to ever encounter it.

auto gear change issue resolved. Turned out to be a small white box near the key needed to be switched. It now can realise what gear I want it in. Still no O/D though ABS light is constantly on still though. Anyway we can bypass the ATESSA check?

Hi all. Just completed an engine conversion on a RWD cedric using a 4WD Cedric RB25DET half cut. I've converted the transmission to RWD by pulling the front driveshaft and blocking up the high pressure line that would normally run to the actuators above the diff. As the half cut did not come with any actuators, ecu, rear end wiring loom or the res for the atessa system, i would have thought the ECU should cope with out it. Now the ABS light is on constantly. Does anyone know what needs to be shorted/looped or removed in order to have ABS working but ATESSA not? Keep in mind that the original body loom has remained intact and only the engine harness has been replaced. Another issue is that I have wired up the automatic plugs to the appropriate wires in the vehicle loom according to the half cuts loom. The POWER mode light now flashes occasionally. The auto box changes from Park - Reverse - Neutral - Drive and all the lights work on the dash, but it does not change gear at all. Put it in Drive and it will act like its stuck in one gear. Any help would be appreciated. Apart from these 2 issues my conversion is complete and im very happy with its progress. Ben

price drop to $2300! Bargain!

well, the wiring for the automatic shifter is done. The AC lines and water lines are done. The cluster is in and wired up. The ECU and body loom mods are done. Tailshaft has been swapped and new brakcets made. ABS sensors swapped. Now i need to work out how much of the tunnel needs modifying to fit the transfer case in, then its a bolt up, fluids and start. More info when it comes to hand.

some specs on the engine pulled from here => R34 VQ30DETT Conversion VQ30DET Manufacturer: Nissan Type : V-6 DOHC 24 valves total 4 valves per cylinder Bore × stroke 93.00mm × 73.30mm 3.66 in × 2.89 in Bore/Stroke ratio 1.27 Displacement 2987 cc (182.278 cu in) Unitary capacity 497.83 cc/cylinder Compression ratio 9.00:1 Fuel system EFi Aspiration Turbo Intercooled Max. output (JIS) 269.7 PS (266.0 bhp) (198.4 kW) @6000 rpm Max. torque (JIS) 368.0 Nm (271 lbft) (37.5 kgm) @3600 rpm Specific output 89.1 bhp/litre 1.46 bhp/cu in Specific torque 123.2 Nm/litre

thanks. I agree, but hope to sell the car with the new owner having the ability to convert to 4WD with relative ease if he/she found the few parts needed. Thanks again. Ben

Really need to work this out before i put the engine and tranny in the car next week. Do the front half shafts/CV's need to be removed from the front diff, or will removing the front driveshaft suffice?

Price is $2500. I might be slightly negotiable for a quick sale.