cmoney

Who did you PM?? Ive got no messages....waiting on a reply for the turbo please

+1 on stuffed fuel pump. Exactly the problem i had with mine....stuffed AFM didnt help either when the aftermarket piggyback ECU was pulled out, cos all of a sudden the car was playing up, but before that fuel pump was dead from 4000rpm on, & i hit over 15 for the AFR on the dyno print out as well. As soon as i had a new pump, AFR was around 12 & very happy Suddenly made another 20kw at the wheels, even after dropping boost by 5psi.

Doesnt the 1st post say he just recently replaced the coil packs?? Hope you replaced em with Splitfires.... Just thoroughly go over all the ignition wiring & see if you can find anything. Does sound like a general coil pack issue.

PM sent

Possibly the AFM playing up?? Does it experience any kind of power loss, misfiring?? When it runs poorly is the idle at the same revs it would normally be??

Best bets i could think of would be AFM, being a series 1 it would have the green label AFM same as the R32 which have been known to play up from time to time. The bit that makes it confusing is where you said the engine keeps running, so then i would assume the cutting out would be a massive loss of power. This could then be something like an O2 sensor possibly. If the car stalls & has an erratic idle its most likely the AFM for sure. Im about to change my O2 sensor in my R32 to fix a power loss problem which is also intermittant & very annoying. I hope its the O2 sensor, cos im outta ideas.... Good luck with it

The worst problem you have is the gearbox. If you stick an RB25 in front of an RB20 gearbox it wont last long, but if you stick a hyped up RB26 in front of it, start praying As the other guys have said, brakes, suspension, ecu, fuel pump, possibly drive shafts &/or diff, different intercooler, better clutch, & probably a few other things i havent thought of lol. I considered it myself, i reckon best option is an RB25 DET NEO. You can milk some decent power outta that beast & itll still be RWD, get an R33 box to put behind it too. Or the R34 unit, havent heard much about reliability or anything, but its the same as the R33 as far as ive heard, so bloody strong!!! Keep me posted if you go ahead. That will give me some ideas to see if i wanna do it also.

Pretty sure all the R32's are a standard analogue speedo. Mine just gave out on the freeway 1 night on the way home from work, so naturally my steering went hard & it kept trying to stall on me cos of all the sensors & shit intertwined with it. Maybe check the connection in the back of the dash, or just replace the cable & go from there....

As far as i know 100,000km service was done. I picked the car up with 130,000kms on it. The rest of the belts i have replaced myself around 140,000km as 1 of them began squeaking & shit, so i replaced the lot of them. Car is still for sale, i have a potential pending offer, but til i get a deposit i cant afford to hold it back from selling to anyone. RB25 turbo will be sold with the car, but not fitted. I havent got the time to take the car off the road to fit it atm. Cheers

*Price Drop* $11,500. Car is currently registered til 5th of June 2009. Spare set of 16" R34 GT rims included in sale. Some 1 PM me an offer....

PM sent

No replies at all?? *PRICE DROP* $11,750 with spare set of wheels I need to sell this now, as i have found a replacement again. Need the money to purchase.

Greetings SAU members I have for sale again my R32 GTS-T. Car has changed a little since previous listing, hoping to sell (price is negotiable), as i have found several cars i wish to look at as replacements for this, as it is my daily driver still. Specs: RB20 DET 156xxx kms (serviced every 4000km-5000km without fail) 5 speed manual 3" exhaust 17" Antera rims (spare set of 16" R34 GT rims thrown in with sale also) BLITZ fmic turbosmart dual stage boost (11psi & 14psi) HKS turbo timer 3 stage alarm/immobiliser with auto window lift Greddy boost gauge, 3 3/4" tacho with built-in adjustable shift light Cerametallic heavy duty clutch by Unique Auto Sports (all work also carried out by UAS) walbro 500hp fuel pump in-tank slotted front rotors Changes: Blitz BOV disconnected, running standard BOV now oil catch can gone, as it didnt have a plug for the hole still has standard air box with k&n filter RB25 turbo going on in the next few weeks when i do an oil & coolant change HICAS has been removed , troublesome shit it was too ecu is now standard again, as the microtech wasnt installed properly & was causing many problems economy is now 450km+ to the same tank i used to get less than 300km out of driving like a grandma.... Previous asking price for SAU members was $12,400 with similar kms, so $12,000 negotiable now. I still have receipts for the $5000 worth of work done fixing things up that i wasnt happy with, as well as a dyno graph for the 150kw at the wheels produced with the standard RB20 turbo which is about to be replaced by the RB25 unit. Price is NEGOTIABLE, as i need to sell to make room for a new car ive been looking at. Please PM, or [email protected], or msg me on 0407 896 339 as during work hours i dont get a chance to answer the phone. Cheers

If your ceramic wheels had gone, the boost gauge should be reading 0 or there abouts all the time. When you accelerate & put the car under load where the turbos would normally spool up, does it seem to miss or sound different?? When a cooler hose popped off on my own car the other day, the idle was fairly normal, but as soon as i accelerated it was popping & farting & just generally not going at all. Do you have a factory ecu in yours?? Remember the factory ecu's have the safety feature where the car wont build any positive boost while in neutral or the clutch is in. Could it be that 1 of the sensors used to detect either of these conditions is playing up?? If the turbos were gone, you would expect smoke &/or a 0 reading on the gauge just about all the time. Personally i dont think turbos, but im not a mechanic so diagnose it & fix it however suits you best. Good luck with it.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...rb25+conversion

Usually a quiet parking lot in the dark. When you cant see what you're touching, it makes it that much better.... Then we hit the car parks with all the lights so Matt can model with the cars while we all take pics of him....& the cars

If you claim that on insurance, you should be able to do it as an "unknown driver hit your car whilst parked". I had this same situation with my old celica (with much worse results), but i got a full $3000 back on the car & no increased premium changes what so ever, because the car was parked & i had nothing to do with it. The lady was also drunk & in a stolen car. For your info, i only had 3rd party with fire & theft options through Just Car. Took them maybe 2 months after i got quotes from 2 of their prefered repairers, then i got the full $3000 back was on my way with a car that was a write off, but i was still able to drive it til the rego ran out. I fixed the broken stuff enough to make it safe to drive in the mean time. Look into this cos i didnt even have to pay any excess, that was the full agreed amount the car was worth that i got back. Maybe different for a higher priced car like the skyline, but give it a shot. Good luck....

"Police have impounded 3823 vehicles since anti-hoon legislation came into effect in September 2004" I would bet that every single 1 of these was either a modified jap import, or your typical modified holden/ford. Not 1 of them would have been the idiots who speed & cut people off in their standard shitboxes. Theyre also the 1s who sit an inch from your rear bumper, & have absolutely no hope of stopping if you jump on the breaks. But as their car is not modified, in the eyes of the police, they couldnt possibly be classified a "hoon". No matter how many times they get done for speeding, they dont get listed as serial offending hoons. They simply got caught again. Why not do us all a favour & impound their shitboxes so that we dont have to worry about their crazy shitboxes running into us when we're cruising to work??

Yeah, the percentage only pops up on your own profile because you are the 1 who is logged in. Nobody else needs to see it.

R33 turbo & manifold sold to me

Depends if you use it for a daily driver or not. I'll give you an example of my R32 gts-t & a mates R32 gts-t for comparison: My car 3" exhaust, 14psi, front mount, fuel pump. This combo has seen 150kw at the wheels on the 10th pull in a row (fine tuning the boost setting). This has standard lag (as its standard turbo), & i drive it everyday still getting 450km to a tank. Mates car 3" exhaust, 20psi, front mount, fuel pump, Z32 high flow turbo, power fc, gtr injectors (i think). This combo has a massively laggy turbo that comes on full boost around 5000rpm, where mine is on full by 3000rpm. Top end is bloody scary!!! So between the 2, it depends what you use your car for. You can get other turbos that can handle 20psi & not be as laggy, so dont worry about that so much. Look at a HKS item for response & power.

If only it was a manual....good luck all the same

Yeah that does sound like something has changed. Maybe take it to your local tuning shop, get them to have a look & ask them. Maybe also, a japanese wrecker on the odd chance that they have heard of this problem before. Where abouts are you located??

+1 for the clutch. Sounds like everything else is running fine, & the driveline just isnt transferring the power to the ground. Your tyres werent slipping with lots of white smoke were they?? I would check clutch also, maybe a quick power run on the dyno could shed some light on it for ya.

Bigger turbo - allows you to pump more boost into the engine (be careful not to go too big due to lag) Bigger injectors - pumps more fuel into the engine to compensate for higher boost Intercooler - cools the intake charge, allowing denser air for a cleaner explosion inside the cylinders Exhaust - frees up exhaust gases behind the turbo & runs more efficiently ECU - allows you to custom tune fuel & ignition maps (depending on which ecu obviously) along with many other features AFMs - larger air flow meters will not limit power when used in high boost applications (common gtr swap uses Z32 AFM's) Dual stage boost - low & high setting, so can cruise on low & flick to high for a drag meeting etc.... Cam gears - allows you to retune the cams for more power & smoother torque band Cams - changing the cams will move the power band of the engine, high lift long duration cams are suited to racing for mid range & top end, while lower lift & shorter duration are suited to cruising around town with torque down low BOV - blow off valve is allows the pressurised air in the intake system to escape when you suddenly snap the throttle closed for changing gears etc.... Fuel pump - higher capacity fuel pump protects your engine when running higher than normal boost, uses more fuel too depending on tune obviously Wastegate - bypasses exhaust gasses on the exhaust side of the turbo when it is spinning too fast To put this into perspective, on my own gts-t i have intercooler, exhaust, dual stage boost (only set to 11psi & 14psi), R33 AFM for convenience, & a 500hp fuel pump because the stocker shit itself. I still have standard turbo, injectors, BOV, ecu, cams & gears. This combo has produced 150kw at the wheels on 14psi, which is fine for daily use like i use it for. Even on low boost, its still around 135kw at the wheels or similar. I still get 450km to a tank also.