cmoney

How wide were the R34 rims?? Maybe you need some wider & heavier rims, sounds like the system is thinking it is losing traction early. Could be that the rims are narrower & lighter confusing it maybe....

Go off the AFM. Green label is series 1, pink label is series 2.

I agree. after a few weeks, getting in other cars they feel like they have no clutch. I simply blip mine going back into 2nd also & its easy as anything. Double clutching i only do once in a blue moon so i remember how to do it, no great need to practice it or anything.

Depends how well they are tuned. As a basic rule, its a small 2 litre 6 cyl with not so much torque. Having said that, coming onto the freeway with the a/c going i can put the boot into it at around 2500rpm & it keeps on pulling right up to 6500rpm where the turbo starts to drop off. There is not that much noticable power loss from the a/c. Without it on, its the same story but slightly quicker. Skylines in general take a little practice, as taking off too quick with low revs will bog them down. Going up the hairpin twisties around here a few times, ive been surprised how quickly mine shoots out of a corner. Ive had to jump on the brakes several times to avoid hitting my mates R34 which seems to keep bogging down haha. Even uphill there with the a/c going its fine, cos it spools up low. With a big turbo, different story....

+1 on that actually. The power of even a stocker gts-t will scare you sometimes, given the right conditions, im glad i got mine 1st....

Pretty well for what they are. Mine is fairly stock i guess you could say. Front mount, dual stage boost (set low), exhaust & fuel pump. On 14psi it makes about 150kw at the wheels. On 11psi its still making 135kw. Its my daily driver & every week i get 450km minimum out of a full tank no matter how hard i decide to push it, a/c on, etc... If you decide on a gts-t & you are around western sydney. I might just sell mine if the offer is right. Ive also got receipts for $4500 worth of repair & slight upgrade work done to it, along with dyno sheets for the recent tune. Id like to modify it further, as now its pretty much ready for ecu injectors & turbo, then 20psi & around 240kw. Reason id sell is i want a gtr, & im finally getting to the point where i could afford 1.

Yeah, thats what this is here for i guess, along with other things. Get someone reputable to inspect any car you're looking at seriously purchasing would be another good bit of advice i learnt the hard way. Before you go looking once you decide what model you want, sit down & write up a checklist of things you want to check on & make sure are functioning. eg aircon, power windows & mirrors, defectable items like bov's etc...., this will really help you eliminate the "not quite what im looking for" cars available, & should see you pick up a nice ride.

Spot on man. Double clutching is where you go down a gear, but as you do so you release the clutch & blip the throttle quickly, then put the clutch in & select the gear. Example: Downshifting from 4th to 3rd. Push the clutch in & push the gearstick up out of 4th into neutral, let your foot off the clutch & blip the throttle quickly, then push the clutch back in, select 3rd gear & let the clutch out. With practice & doing this quick enough, you will be able to do this smoothly. In older cars, this blipping the throttle method as you change means you can actually do it without using the clutch. I would highly NOT recommend this in a skyline though. Worked a treat in my old corolla lol.

Driving like a grandma delibrately, 2500rpm. Generally about 2800-3000, pushing it i only go to 6500 usually. Stock turbo & stuff arent pulling hard after that anymore, so its pointless revving it harder really.

Yeah fair call. Simple answer is....get a GTR. In the long run im sure you will thank yourself. Make sure you post some pics when you get whatever you decide upon.

Have you possibly got a power steering fluid leak as i have?? I have to top mine up every few days, my light keeps coming on after a couple of days coming home down the M4.

Homework for the most part is usually the fun bit. You get to check out what other people have experimented with. Best piece of advice i think most people would stick with....if you want something unique, then build it yourself. If you want something to match the specs thats reliable, get that model from the factory. ie if you want a unique car, get the gts4 & either work the rb20 or do a conversion. If you want reliability straight up with little hassles, bite the bullet & buy a gtr. This is the lesson ive just learnt, & is why im not so focused on doing my gts-t up atm, id rather save so i can trade up to a gtr. *That is the car i was talking about. A major consideration, the gearbox that he blew up. If you put an RB25 or RB26 onto a RB20 gearbox with any kinda power behind it, that fate is only a matter of time for any RB20 gearbox. Especially the GTS4 unit. It was a gtr motor he put in, RB26 with twin hi-flow turbos & 18psi i believe. Hope this has been of some use to you. Good luck with it all.

Are you specifically looking at the GTS4 for the AWD?? If not, then i would suggest go GTS-T. If so, you have the option for the RB25 or RB26 GTR motor. If you're interested in the GTR engine swap, watch High Octane dvd's 3 & 4, the presenter does this swap to an R32 GTS4 with some impressive results. He doesnt so much go into specifics of price, & hes a kiwi so all the performance shops he recommends & uses are in NZ where the dvds are filmed for the most part. However, for the cost of the car plus the conversion & engineering hassles, its much easier to get a R32 GTR straight out of the box & have all the features & benefits of the better model. This is the path i would choose, given the option. As for RB20 mods, looking at my own car & a few mates R32's, boost is a good way to go for improving them. You do the fuel pump, ecu & injectors in preparation, then screw boost into it. As they generally rev slightly higher than the RB25's, the top end power gains feel more noticable. Plus theyre a bloody strong engine. If you're after the response also, go the GTR path. The bigger 2.6 to start with will give you much better response down low, plus they rev harder & have an extra turbo, stronger gearbox, electronically switchable AWD->RWD, better looking factory bodykit, etc etc....

Cheers for the replies guys. I was tossing up whether to just buy some new replacement items for the RB20 which now sounds like a safer bet. The gtr injectors would have been 2nd hand anyway, so might as well just do it properly from the start. The fuel pump is already a 500hp unit, as the stock pump turned out to be in bad shape when i got the car fixed & tuned a while back, so no need to worry about that.

Cheers for the informative reply. Only question, the resistor pack you mention....is that an item that comes standard on a gtr that i could pick up from the jap wreckers or something?? The rest is about what i thought the differences were....thanks again.

If ur blocking the BOV off completely, you gotta block this too. If ur planning on putting a different BOV elsewhere in the system, thats the vaccum line you have to run to that other BOV. Oh PS, see you at dos tomorrow dude

Hi guys & girls Silly question, as im 99% sure i already know the answer....i just wanna be 100% sure before i get some injectors. The GTR injectors are a direct replacement for RB20 injectors correct?? Im only looking at possibly an R33 S2 or Z32 turbo as a direct replacement & only 14psi or so for high boost, so a mild upgrade. GTR injectors should be ample for this, its just a bit of an added safety thing as i think the stockers i have arent quite the items they used to be. I know RB25 injectors are side feed, so basically i just wanna double check if the RB20 & RB26 top feed injectors are basically identical?? (apart from size & flow obviously) Cheers

Does it have a stock ecu?? The R32 GTS-T (or mine anyway) with a stock ecu will NOT build any boost in neutral. I didnt even think about this until i had my troublesome after market ecu pulled out. It would spool up in neutral with that in, but as soon as it was out i thought i had a blown turbo lol. Just a factory safety measure....

Loving the fact that ur son is also running a skyline....kudos to that!!!

Give Unique Auto Sports in 7 Hills a try. Last time i was talking to them, i think the boss said he was stripping & building a VQ motor for his race car possibly. They seem to know a fair bit about all skylines & nissans in general, plus they specialise in the zeds. Hit em up on www.nismo.com.au if you like. It'll redirect you to their site. Let me know how it goes, i used them for pretty much all the work done on my car that wasnt done by me. Ive had some major problems fixed without a hassle.

Are the injectors in good condition?? Would you take $250 for the set?? Rims look bloody nice, but i got too many sets already

The bigger rims will give you a larger rolling diameter & more weight generally, thus slowing down the time gain from extra boost. For the drag strip, use the stock rims with a GOOD set of tyres & the time will be much better, & it will put less stress on the drivetrain as a whole. Stick the 20s back on for cruising bling.

+1 for the boost gauge you're reading this off. Without any smoke from the exhaust, the turbo should probably not be stuffed. Just stick a proper dual stage (turbosmart or equivelant) unit in & set the boost to what you would like to run.

For the problem to be mainly occuring once the motor is hot after driving for a while, id put my $50 on the AFM. Mine did EXACTLY the same thing....being a green label AFM a few people had the same problem as me. Being an R32, id imagine you have the same problem. A quick dyno run measuring a/f ratio should tell you if its playing up. I would look into this, maybe get some proper cleaner & clean the terminals, or even replace the unit. I had mine replaced with a pink label unit from a series 2 R33 (due to a lack of R32 AFM's at the time), & mine hasnt missed a beat since, it actually made another 15kw at the wheels on the dyno straight after. Fuel pump & spark are possible, but those i would expect to play up right from the start. The temp & time it takes suggests its the AFM causing you the dramas. Hope this helps