cmoney

Leave the thermostat in place, check other items like the radiator. Do you have a front mount, & more importantly how thick is it?? If its too thick you wont be getting enough airflow on hot days. The leaking coolant pipe is a give away, the only time mine ever ran hot was when it was low on coolant due to a leak i didnt find til i saw the steam. If your system is up to the task, you should be able to redline the car in the 45 degree heat of summer no problem. Since i got my 2 leaky hoses fixed, i can boost mine to 14psi on the hottest day you can imagine with the air con going & no dramas. Didnt rev it right out cos of the a/c, but 5000rpm through 2nd & 3rd hitting the freeway it went like a dream, the temp never even rose. Did it without the a/c, same result with slightly more power due to less drag. No temperature issues what so ever. You could even possibly get your head gasket checked. Sounds like yours is losing coolant, & if its still doing it after you fixed the hose & you cant figure out where, try this as the next option. Hopefully its not that though.

With all the R32's shown on youtube & other places with this conversion, has nobody got any info on what is required??

Hi guys & girls I am potentially looking at dropping an RB25DET NEO motor into my R32 GTS-T in the somewhat near future. I already have a fairly comprehensive write-up on the conversion using an RB25DET from an R33, but i would like to see if any members know where i could get my hands on a guide from someone who has done this with the R34 motor. Mainly wiring differences & if there was any dramas with physical sizes of parts, or anything like that. My car is a manual already, so i would initially be looking at a full conversion to RB25 & 5 speed gearbox. Also, trying to utilise the R34 ecu & loom to begin with, just to ensure that everything is completed & running without a fuss before i start upgrading & changing things further. I need to know what the dramas could be with engine mounts, accelarator cable, speedo cable, etc.... Also, i have heard from many places that the series 2 R33 gearboxes are a very strong unit. Are they any better than the R34 box that comes standard with the motor, or is there something different about the earlier box?? Any info you guys know of would be much appreciated. Cheers

Go for as close to a stocker as you can. If you are definitely keen on doing the work yourself, this is the best advice i think. Exhaust is easy enough, most will have that. But as for mods like boost controllers, unless its an aftermarket turbo id steer clear. Cos you never know how hard theyve been boosted. If you start stock, youll soon learn if you get pulled over for an inspection, looking stock is the way to go. Stick with a stock airbox, or a nice covered pod that looks stock. BOV same deal, keep it looking legal,then do whatever mods you like yourself. Its more satisfying, & you also know how the car was going to begin with. This really helps tracking any problems that could arise later on.

If you have the option, go Neo for sure in a R34. The only difference i have noticed between the engines is the AFM. A S1 motor uses the sometimes troublesome "green label" AFM, the same as the 1 for my RB20 in my R32 GTS-T. The series 2 motor uses the better "pink label" AFM, as found in the R34 RB25DET NEO motor also. When my AFM crapped out, there weren't any green label 1s at the time, so i had a pink label retro fitted & the car has been going like a gun ever since. I think some GTR owners are starting to use these as an alternative to the Z32 upgrade also, not 100% on that 1 though. Or better yet, do like im planning & put a RB25 NEO in a R32 lol.

Sounds like ur AFM could be starting to play up. Might just need cleaning properly. Mine did this initially as it was playing up intermittantly, & boosting did seem to help. But then i discovered that mine was completely f@#$%d 5 mins later lol. I reckon try this, as it does seem to emerge then disappear randomly.

If only you were in Sydney....good luck man.

I added you both as friends, as im on the eastern coastline of the huge island its a little hard to go on cruises around Perth from Sydney lol. Welcome to the club all the same.

You running stock rims, or rims with the same rolling diameter & width at all corners?? I heard that different profile tyres & different width rims could cause problems with the awd system on earlier gtr's. Just a quick check. After that, +1 for the possible tailshaft culprate.

Could just be an old turbo. I have a similar setup on my RB20 R32 with a stock turbo. It starts at 13psi at 3000rpm, & slowly works its way down to 10psi at around 6500rpm. Very smooth linear line, no surging or anything, just dont think it can handle the heat from the boost. From memory, i think the 8psi run on low boost held it all the way pretty much to 7000rpm. I have a rather large front mount, but prob just the ceramic wheel & the fact that its old. 155,000kms or so & still kicking on strong lol. Try a bolt on turbo with steel turbine wheel & see if it holds boost all the way if the budget will allow it. Im going for a KKR480, bit laggy on the RB20, but in the next year or 2 i should have an RB25DET NEO motor sitting in there instead, then il pull the turbo off & stick it on that sucker.

Change the AFM to a known working item. Mine did this, revved fine with no load, but as soon as i put it under load it was coughing & spluttering, even after i cleaned the AFM. Test it with a known working item. I was left in the rain a little, mine is a daily at this stage also, but at the time there were no green label AFM's in the state (standard RB20), so i had my tuning shop retro fit a pink label from a S2 R33, now she goes like a gem. Havent had a problem since. If you're in NSW & anywhere near sydney, let me know & il tell you which shop i use. Cheers

Yeah id also back the AFM theory. Those symptoms sound like the sedate version of what happened with mine. Mine felt like i was out of petrol, youd put ur foot down & it would go, then stop, then go again several times a second. f**kin nuts!!! As for the dropping revs, mine does that a little at times. I usually drive around it without even noticing, but i think the IAC valve on the back of the intake plenum may just need adjusting. Or it could even be the TPS not picking up 100%, either way i dont think its too major. Theyre the 2 devices that seem to play with revs when the car isnt yet at idle. The not building boost issue, the only thing i could relate it to is either the ECU or turbo. If the turbo is blown, there will be a shit load of smoke i would think, but it doesnt sound like it. If you have the standard ECU, unless you are driving along in gear the engine wont build boost above 0. Its a built in safety i believe, could have something to do with whatever the sensor is for this. If the car is idling, or the clutch is in & you rev it, it just wont build boost, id see how the AFM bit goes, & if the problem still exists look into this. PS, please let me know about the dropping revs if you solve it, should cut down the amount of time i spend stuffing around with it. Cheers

Hi guys I have for sale, 2 sets of rims Set 1 is 17" gold Lenzos with excellent tires, asking $1500. Tyres are Nankang 235/45/17 all round. Rims are in excellent condition, no bumps or scratches. Set 2 is 18" white 5 spoke from Tempe Tyres with excellent tyres also, asking $1200 as the rims themselves arent perfect. Tyres are 215/35/18. I would be willing to get scratches & dents taken out if someone wanted them for $1500 up front. Set 1 is off my R32, while set 2 is a multi-stud pattern set off my old celica. Both sets fit the skyline, but require 5mm spacers on the front. Im not sure what the offset is, but a trial fit is most welcome for someone wanting to purchase either set. Please reply here, or email if interested: [email protected]