DeanR33

Piece of aluminium bar slightly longer than the required thread length. Ideally in a lathe, run a die down the outside then bore the centre and tap, and part off to required length. If you don't have a lathe (probably the case) you will at least need a pillar drill and a decent vice to hold the bar vertical and do it that way. I can dig out my charts and find the drill size for the bore and the outer diameter for the thread on there if you need em, It's been a while since I used them. Gonna be pretty thin wall so you will have to be careful.

Not sure why. No one else has mentioned it and it hasn't done anything like that at work even with all our corporate protection measures. Maybe it's something to do with it logging IP addresses to prevent cheating.

Many thanks for the votes and comments. I'm certainly looking at a valve body upgrade, and injectors, afm, nistune.....

Thanks. Yes I would like a tuned rb26 and manual box, but I have a dodgy left ankle from a recent accident and do a lot of driving to and from work, not to mention my other half would go mental cos she will only drive autos !

My car has made it into round 4 of Total Nissan magazines Nissan idol. Please vote for me. http://www.totalcarmagazines.co.uk/idol-nissan-4.htm

That's the thing, I've had a meter on the 2 wires from the ATESSA ecu and I know I had power to the front wheels , but I didn't get any voltage output so I'm fairly certain that the ECU is configured differently to a manual RS4S without the lock 50/50 button. If you are familiar with air core gauges like the type used as the torque meter, you will know that there are 2 coils inside it and the shaft for the needle is moved by creating differing voltages in the coils that cause a magnetic vector that moves the needle. The coils are different and one is designed to accept 12v, whilst the other requires approx 3.5 v to move the needle to full deflection. What this means is that when the Attessa ecu is trying to send power to the front, there should be a voltage of up to 3.5v on the pin33 and 44 wires when this is happening and 0.6v under normal conditions. Sorry for the poor pics, but I don't know any other way to grab single pdf pages.

So it's beaten me for now. I tried cutting the orange/blue wire and using my meter on the end that goes back to the ecu and the extra ETS wire that I had added and despite gunning it on a gravel car park, I didn't get any voltage output. I tried a normal chassis ground too. This is pretty much what I expected since I had found battery voltage on this wire and I know that the Torque gauge moves to full deflection at around 3.5v. The other end of the orange blue wire that goes into the car loom still had battery voltage on it too and the button for four wheel drive torque split was inoperative with the wire cut. So it would almost certainly be the case that on my car at least, that the Atessa ECU is configured differently to an RS4S or Skyline GTR ECU using a battery input on the wire that uses an output on the RS4S and GTR. I've looked at other outputs from the ECU, but there is nothing that could be used. Possibly the only way to get the torque gauge working is to use a GTR ECU, but then I would lose the ability to lock the system in four wheel drive and since I get snow around here in winter I don't want to lose that option. At least I have a working oil temp guage and I could swap out the torque gauge for a voltmeter.

Ok, here's what I have so far. There is no Lime green wire in pin 33 in my ECU, it's orange / blue with a silver dot. This wire comes up to the multi plug at the front behind the engine ecu. Pin 44 should be the ETS wire as per the R34GTR shop manual diagram. There was no wire in my Atessa ecu multi plug for this, so I fitted one. I wired up the gauge with the ETS+ going to the orange / blue wire which is in the same pin as the lime green one already mentioned previously and the ETS wire to pin 44 as above. When you turn on the igniton, you get 6v for a split second, then 0 volts on the ETS+ wire, but as soon as you start the engine, you get battery volts which then means the torque gauge goes to full deflection. Now here's the strange bit. When I press the four wheel drive button (the one for equal torque split) next to my steering wheel, the ETS+ volts drops to 0 and the guage does the same. My initial thoughts are that the Atessa ECU I have in my Stagea is configured differently to the RS4S versions that have the torque gauge from the factory and that pin 33 (ETS+) is used for a warning light, possibly even the four wheel drive one that comes on when you press the button for equal torque split. I'm not done yet, I like a challange, but it's not looking good for getting the torque gauge working. BTW, do RS4S Stageas have that equal torque split button next to the steering column ?

I've been away at the Japanese auto extravaganza meet the last couple of days, so I haven't finished this off yet. I'll definately post my findings soon and hopefully be able to let you all know how to wire up the torque gauge. What I will say is that it already has seperate feeds for ignition 12v supply and ground on the PCB, so it's just a case of ensuring that the ETS and ETS+ wires are correct

Update. A friend of mine has checked his R34 wiring diagram and found that ETS+ is pin 33 and ETS is pin 44 on the Attessa ECU. I have found a drawing done by another friend on the GTROC site, but I'm not entirely sure it's accurate. It certainly doesn't tie in with the location I've used for the green/red wire already mentioned. Now I need to find a definitive pin reference drawing and confirm that an R34 Attessa ECU is the same as a Stag one.

Modded the wiring for my uprated fuel pump. Ended up taking out the rear seat base, drivers seat and all the boot trim because I wanted to run the new wire in the same place as all the original wiring. Took me a long time, but worth it to do the job properly. Now I have full voltage at my pump instead of only 11.8V. Also fitted GTR triple gauge unit and moved my wideband gauge, but that's another story..

I've been fitting GTR triple gauges to my series 2. The oil temp guage was easy,I just run new wiring in, and there are already spare ignition and illumination wires behind the centre dash. I've found the multi plug where the ETS+ wire comes from the rear of the vehicle under the passenger kick panel and run the wiring in, but with the ETS wire connected to ground the guage needle just goes to full deflection and without anything connected to ETS the guage doesn't work. I suspect that the black ETS wire isn't just a ground, but returns to the Atessa ECU, but I can't find any details. The only Atessa wiring diagram I can find is the R32 GTR Atessa wiring diagram shows pins 45 and 44 used for the front torque meter and I haven't been able to work out if this can be related to our Atessa ECU. Any ideas ?

Thanks for the replies. Btw it's an RS4V. Though running a few mechanical mods too

Thanks for that but are you talking about a 34 boost sensor here though? I believe that the 33's only use the boost sensor for the gauge, not an input to the ECU and the boost cut works on the 33 as you say thru the AFM. In fact that was one of the things that I was trying to clarify with this thread.

Glad I found this thread. I've been turning up the boost on my series 2 and I think I hit fuel cut. I asked on the regular skyline pages and was told that disabling the boost sensor could be a bad thing because it leans out your AFRs, though I'm running rich (around 10.5) at full boost. My Stagea has FMIC, Walbro,Iridium 1 grade colder plugs,new coilpacks,Apexi induction kit,decat,80mm cat back exhaust,gizmo ebc and hybrid steel internal turbo.

Yes, I have a wideband in the car. I do also have an SAFC2, but I haven't used it to tune anything on boost because I know that if I lean out I will advance too. I noticed that the AFRs were quite lean before boost comes in and I tried richening up a little between 1600 and 3000 rpm on high throttle, but I'm aware that I'm probably retarding the timing a little going down that route, so it's swings n roundabouts. Thanks

Thanks for all the answers. I did do a search, but I couldn't find what I would call a definitive answer because many posts were referring to the R33 ECU which I know uses the AFM readings for fuel cut and what I needed to know was if the R34 was different in as much as it has it's own dedicated boost pressure sensor for the ecu as opposed to the boost guage. The decision to fit the turbo was all mine and I fitted it myself as I have done with all the mods on my Stagea. From my own research I knew that I would be able to run lower boost for the same power as a std turbo, which is exactly what I have done most of the time. I was just experimenting with upping the boost because my afrs are down to 10.5 ish on full boost at 0.67 bar so I thought I could put some more boost in and let that lean it out a little. I know that there are many skylines running hybrid steel internal turbos like mine on std ecu's withoout problems, though of course they can't take full advantage of the available extra boost without further modifications. I must admit to being surprised at the comments suggesting that it will expire and not to use it over half throttle, AFRs are fine, in fact a little rich, so I would have thought safe. I've driven it, shall we just say in a very spirited manner for some time with this set up. I won't pretend to be massively knowledgable on tuning, but I do have what I believe to be a pretty good basic understanding of what's happening since I have been working on vehicles for over 20 years, though the ones I'm on now are trains ! I will be uprating my ECU, it's just a case of organising a nistune since I can't go the route of power fc with mine being a tiptronic. Anyway, rather than disconnect the boost sensor as I was tempted to do, I will run it at 0.8-0.9 bar boost on high and continue using the lower settings on my Gizzmo for normal use until I organise the extra mods.

I've fitted a hybrid turbo to my Series 2 Stagea RB25det neo engine. It's from a well known supplier over here in the UK and is basically the std turbo with the hot and cold sides machined to take a larger Garrett core. I also have a FMIC, induction kit, de-cat, cat back exhaust,one grade colder 0.8 NGK Iridiums,Walbro fuel pump and Gizmo EBC fitted. Oh and it's had brand new genuine coilpacks. I've been running on various boost settings, the lowest 0.67 and the highest 0.8 bar up until now. Today I tried upping it but I think I hit the fuel cut at 1 bar. It wasn't a misfire, just an immediate and complete loss of power for a split second. I know that the Neo engine has it's own boost sensor to the ECU, but in my searches I haven't been able to confirm if this is definately just for a boost cut signal or the ECU uses it for it's map, so I don't want to disconnect it at this point until I can confirm without a doubt. I know that I am at the point of moving onto new injectors and a Nistune and Z32, but I just want to run it as it is for a while.

I know that these aren't the best solution, but I'm thinking of using one as a stop gap before I move to new injectors etc. I have an S2 Tiptronic Stagea with induction kit,exhaust,fmic and gizzmo set to 0.75bar boost. My AFM voltage is maxing out at 5volts. If I wanted to fit a Z32 AFM to my RB25det neo engine, could I use an SAFC2 with the afm in/out settings changed to run it without compromising ignition timing ? Also, my wideband is showing that at cruise and low throttle settings I'm running high 14's/low 15's, I think this is pretty good, but does anyone recommend leaning out more for economy ? On boost afrs are going down as low as 10.5 and very occasionally 10 which I think is a little too rich and I'd like to be aiming for low 11's. If I lean out with safc am I right in thinking that the ecu will advance the timing because it's seeing less airflow? Does anyone have any settings for a neo engine with induction,exhaust and fmic running 0.75 bar boost that I could look at please? My main concern here is leaning out,advancing the timing and causing knock.

Cheers for all the replies

I always thought that they were 370 or 380cc, but I posed the same question on Skylineowners.com and someone on there swears that they are either 330 or 340cc, which amazes me considering the regular rb25det ones are known to be 370cc. If they are 330cc then I must be getting pretty close to needing uprated ones. To be honest with all the knowledge on here I thought someone would be able to give a definate answer.

I've got a 33 cat back on my S2. It has had a piece probably about 10inches long added in the middle and the back box tweaked around slightly as well as the hangers moved.

I've done lots of searching both here and on other forums so I apologise in advance if the correct answer is out there. So far I've found quotes that the standard R34GTT NEO injectors are 340cc,350cc,370cc or 380cc. Can anyone say for certain what size they are? I think that I might be reaching the limit of mine as I have injector duration of 20-22m/s at full throttle. My S2 Stagea is running FMIC, std turbo (soon to be replaced with hybrid) 80mm cat back,silenced decat,apexi induction kit, Gizzmo EBC set at 0.75bar boost and Walbro 255lph fuel pump.

Well AEM AFR gauge is in though I haven't finished the dash mounting because barbecue and beer were calling. I'll put everyting back in tomorrow. I had welded the boss in the exhaust just after the decat because I noticed a nicely placed grommet in the floor there which lines up under the passenger seat for the wiring to go through.