Travis Trayhern

anyone know where to get a carbon boot for a r33 its for a gtr but im sure they will be universal between gts-t to gtr. also after a rear diffuser and a front one like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R32-Skyline...sQ5fAccessories

yeh was thinking just -5 would be the best thanks guys just saw some 2540 for cheap ill leave them there cheap then lol

how will the hks gt2540 perform on a 2.6, all forged and cams mild head porting? will these be to laggy want to hit around the 400awkw mark will be using for hillclimbs and circut work wont see the streets much.

i think its time to take it to a new workshop dude

also with swap for gtr turbos 2535 or eqiv and other gtr performance parts

$2000 has freash engine built for turbo only runing 8psi good play car cheap will drag of 5ltrs with ease need it gone had a quick tape nd spray metalic black http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=250355521100 pm me any questions located Penola, south east australia dosent have rego just need renewed.

dude i have told you its the CAS it will cut in and out random thats why i said give it a tap on the dyno thats why it was fine for ya drive then went back to shit, also o2 sensors dont do anything except economy when ya tune a car you disable the o2 sensors so dont bother changing them and your tuning shop should know this are you sure thy know what they are doing?

they key in the cam just makes it easyer to line up the timing no need to change but when putting the CAS you have to take extra care in making sure its in the right position

dose it ide ok? seriously if it ides ok there should be anything like cam snaped or rings busted with out a miss fire or blue smoke pooring out the back lol my money is still on the CAS dude can you borrow one the try out? and whats going on when u just free rev it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Flex-a-lite...sQ5fAccessories

i said apart from the alloy clamp, the alloy clamp shouldnt be there is it holding it together? maybe ya got ya self a short shifter.

stick looks standard apart from that alloy clamp above the boot usually these are 1 pc

cheers who sells cusco diffs in aus? also do i need to get a trust front diff extension to deal with the head from the lsd?

take to new workshop

dont ya love it when ya see those ebay chips that raise ya rev limiter to 9,000rpm hahahahaha

hangon just looked at the pic abit closer lol might have an issue on ya hands try clean them best ya can but if there are any indentation left on the lobs after clean just throw them out and get some others.

yeh mate got an easyer option lol, it will only be surface rust just go get some wire wool and clean them up no biggy but put some cheap oil in it and oil filter run the car then drop the oil and replace it it will be right.

Ok ppls need some help and input. Curently my gtr is lightly modded 300kw i use it for alot of hillclimbs and im one of the top contenders for the legend of the lakes hillclimb, 2007 i placed 3rd outright in my stock gtr so i spent the year pooring money into her for it to melt a piston the wk befor the 2008 hillclimb but still ran it up the hill on 5 cyl because i was in a bad mood and i placed 6th outright only 2 sec behind my 2007 run. now new engine time and 400kw goal, in the next fortnight i will be taking the old engine out and placing in a forged beast with some bigger snails hangging of it. but in 2007 i remember getting wheel spin around the top corner of the climb front wheel spin! at speeds of 200kmh+ whick is a scary feeling but ya just hang on and clean ya undies at the top, the car was lifting the front left wheel of the ground so what should i do or what is needed to be done? Front lsd in while engine is out? Suspension work ie sway bars ect? i already have tein coilovers, camber setup, dunlop slicks, chassi braces and roll cage bolt in 6 point but still std sway bars is this my issue, i really dont wanna put the engine in to fine out i should have got an lsd.

well i got some cheap ones on mine atm really couldnt be bothered match porting my standard ones ill be there for hours with the die grinder, think mine are obx ebay america specials cost me $120 when the exchange rate was good so if they crack i might splash out on some decent ones but they been good so far been on the car for a year now with 300awkw and they get a hard time i do alot of track work.

yes it is worth it hit the search button, there been a few topics on the cheap china manifold and a few ppl done flow tests with great improvments also the exhaust ports will match better if you get new turbos

yeh that should be ok then

well borrow a CAS because thats your problem, because when it rubs on the cam gear bolts it also puts preasure on the internals of it, as previous post said with the cam lob gone it just makes it really hard to line up but it look like its done the damage to it already, if you do put another one on make sure it is spaced out and shouldnt hit there is a rubber that goes inbetween the timing cover it also had small washers in it to space it out

you ran it with the timing cover off didnt you, and you didnt put washers to space the CAS (cam angle sensor) out thats why you have broken the tab on the cam which positions it in the right spot and timing, what it also dose is stuffs up the CAS because it hits in the cam gear bolts, the only way to fix is replace this is a common thing ppl thinks it kool to see ya cam gears and belt going around lol this will learn ya. and if ya tunner did it he should have knowin better and maybe he or she shouldnt be touching ya skyline. sometimes ya can give the CAS a tap and it will come bak for a little. but with that tab on the cam missing things can get messy because if the CAS slipps a toth at full noise there goes ya engine.

if you look at the plenum on the rb26 no.6 port it comes in to cater for the clutch booster i think, and causes no.6 to get starved of air or something in hight hp engines, nismo do a replacment bolt on plenum and gready do one to that fix this

check in the pfc doc by paul i think thats where i found the latency for mine when tuning