bozodos

Japs only drift N/A Skylines because they don't have VN's over there, true story

RP 10w40 would be my oil of choice after the Edge (which is easily bought from most parts places and cheaper). It's hard to judge without UOA's or filtergrams tbh, though I did see a car on another forum where they changed from Edge 10w60 to Penrite 5w50 and ended up with a lifter dragging on the cam and scoring a lobe. That was on an aftermarket cam with a fairly aggressive ramp rate though. Mine goes in for a service tomorrow, so should have the sample off for testing within the next few days.

parts mainly, specfically suspension parts that tend to flog out on our shitty roads, and stuff that breaks on 20 year old cars that needs to be procured from specialist wreckers. Also finding a mechanic who wants to work on imports ($$$ or incompetence, your pick) Trust me, I've owned both. Not comparing fuel usage as my R32 had a Microtech and bigger turbo, 'nuff said. I doubt I'd get better fuel economy from an N/A skyline than my LS though (10l/100 or so mostly highway)

hmm owning an import for a daily with nearly all of the maintenence costs but none of the power of the turbo variants.... sounds legit...

Well he's only bagging out drag racing because there isn't an N/A import that can get anything resembling a decent time (incidentally not a fan of the sport, but the car going down the 1/4 is only the tip of the iceberg). The only reason anyone buys them is because they are on their P's.

How is Nick's car not a Commodore anymore? Sure looks like a VE to me! Maybe YOU need to get out of your head this silly idea that there is something bad about Commodores (well at least the late model V8 ones!) I also know of at least one VE taken to Japan for drifting. your examples of Commo's that 1) haven't been maintained properly and 2) been thrashed are irrelevant; what about the fact that RB engines are known for crappy oil control and flogging out bearings etc etc. Jap cars peaked in the late 90s, it's a well known fact. Your N/A is slow and not desirable; 4 stud hubs are a very limiting choice for wheel selection these days - hence every HR31 owner changing them for 5 stud for example. In the test I mentioned, test driver actually stated that though slower and not as predictable that he would choose the GT500 over the other two for a daily driven street car. Also interesting was the fact that the Z06 is also up there with the GT-R; the most common comparison is the supercharged ZR1 I also owned a modified RB25DET R32 previously, does that improve my street cred? TL;DR: N/A Skylines are the slow arse pov pack models of the lot, much like v6 Executive Commo's are to the SS / HSV models. Actually this thread reads a bit like a Just Commodores thread, do any of you happen to run manifold insulators??

There are Commodores entering the drift scene, Nick Coulson has done pretty well actually. I'd almost be willing to bet that all of the Commodore haters have never driven one of note. It's just hilarious that people who own the Skylines that were used as taxis and grandpa's runabout having a superiority complex. Enjoy your underpowered, underbraked 4 stud pov pack, while the rest of us drive cars worth driving. I've driven a non turbo RB30 and that was bad enough, the thought of driving an N/A RB25 or RB20 is quite painful. Let me guess, your reply will involve you carrying on about semi trailing arm vs double wishbone suspension setups or chassis stiffness? Heard it all before, utter semantics when comparing apples to apples (ie modified suspension setups). In case you hadn't noticed, there is also a lot of crap that comes out of Japan, like anything made by Veilside to pick one example. EDIT: BTW there was a track comparison done between the 2011 Shelby GT500, Z06 Corvette (LS7 N/A) and the 2012 GT-R, the GT-R was a bees dick faster than the Z06 lol.

haha thread delivers. You'd be better off modding a VN to drift if you want to do it NA, moo engine lasts forever, cheap as chips to run, can get coilover kits for them these days, lots of lowdown torque. Second choice would be the Aussie R31. Even then they are both fairly slow, but at least the moo can be turboed to become a fairly potent engine! (obviously the RB30E can too) Pre R34 N/As are pretty farkin woeful. Just because it might be 'cool' in Japan does not make it cool here.

nearly all of the piston slapping LS1's have been replaced by now.. He's probably using an LS1 because an LS2 / L76/98 is 2-2.5 times dearer second hand (think 2-3k vs 5-7), and about 3-4k dearer new. You can still get good power out of even the 853 (small port VT) headed LS1's, cam selection is important, and heads can be sourced relatively cheap from the US. Keen to see some more on this project btw, I'm a big fan of LS swaps into anything Jap Would be keeping in mind PTV clearance if going for big lift on the cam, IMO keep the lift sane and shave the heads to get a bit more comp into it. Would recommend the Comp LSr 269 cam for your build (got one for my L76!) decent lift, nice quick ramp rates to make good power under the curve, and will make bulk torque. Have driven a WH with the Crow equivalent (or thereabouts) and was seriously impressed, given how doughy down low stock LS1s seem to be. EDIT: Haven't read the entire thread, but are you going to stick with a JDM exhaust (will need a single 3.5 at least depending on power) Get 1 7/8 headers made up if you can, its been tested and proven that you only gain top end and dont lose any down low vs smaller primaries. Curious as to how that side of the swap works out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JFJc5nkhv0 I find Magic Mike a bit hit and miss, but like this song and the theme of the album in general. Big fan of DJ's who aren't afraid to explore new genres. Finally another good GQ podcast!

also been listening to quite a few DJ Rectangle mixtapes.

some good choices there, i do like these threads for broadening my musical horizons!

N/A Skylines are awesome... with an LS conversion! VN V6 is the fastest factory Commodore 6 up to the VZ. Also lol @ people talking about <13 second quarters, you're adorable

Loved that song when it first came out. DJ's Craze and Rectangle ATM. Loving turntablism right now (despite a lack of HQ sets on youtube)

I think another thing you all need to keep in mind is that the manufacturer recommendation is for maximum economy on a COMPLETELY stock motor. Start modifying and that goes out the window. Squarezandboxez: I read through some of your source material, and it's still a lot of opinion. The MSDS for example you cite isn't even off the Castrol website! I did however look it up on there, and it made no mention of the additive package used. I also think you're drawing a bit of a long bow to say that the prescence of an organic based compound in the additive package is indicative of it being hydrocrack rather than PAO base stock. In regards to weights, I can tell you that the 25w50 made the lifters rattle terribly for the first 5 minutes or so on a cold start, whereas the 10w60 is momentary (hydraulic DoD lifters need oil pressure to not tick) I'm not sucked in by the marketing hyperbole about 'titanium fluid strength' and such things either. The only real expert opinion / testing I could find was that of Steve from Mainlube (who also manufactures a true Group 4/5 racing oil, as used by some rather big name workshops) who only recommends the Castrol 10w60 over anything else for those who can't afford to buy Mainlube, for any modified LS cars. I can't find the actual Filtergram or I'd post it, just awaiting my UOA kit to send off to find out how the Edge performs with a 10000km service interval.

The Edge 10w60 will be fine for an RB motor - I know of several that have had consistent thrashing and have held up fine - all data I can find on the internet says that the Edge 10w60 and 0w40 is a PAO Group 4 so unless you have proof that it's not Squareznboxez, maybe you should stop making such claims? There is a LOT of opinion based shit on BITOG as well, I've read enough crap on there too! I wouldn't get too hung up on viscosity anyway. Those two grades are also significantly more expensive than 5w30, 25w50 etc. When i was researching what oil to use in my L76, I could not find any hard evidence about the Royal Purple HPS, so if you have some, could you please share? (discounting the discredited Street Commodores 'comparison') Different motors I know, but if there were issues with running such "thick" oil in LS motors (when the factory fill is 5w30), it would have become apparent at some point over the last 10 years, and that's with a 10000km drain interval for most (granted they are N/A pushrod motors, but still machined to very fine tolerances).

twin 3"

getting a UOA done soon on my Castrol Edge 10w60 to see what information it provides! Mainlube do an engine oil flush for those who are interested. Probably pricey though. Squareznboxez: do you have any proof about your claims of what is and isn't a proper Group 4 oil? BTW Liqui-Moly were asked why their 10w40 is only an SL not an SN certified oil on another forum recently, and have not as yet answered. One would hope its because it contains additional ZDDP or something along those lines!

yep you should take it to the strip then, instead of debating the theory on here Should be fairly even power, though you have the advantage of AWD and shorter gearing.

^ pretty much. Most people I know did the SAFC path when the only mods were very minor like a catback / fmic. Should cost you around 100 bucks or so to get a reputable workshop to chuck your car on the dyno and do a few runs to check AFRs (unless you know someone with a wideband!)

I had pretty much the same fuel economy on my Microtech equipped R32. Used to blow HUGE smoke clouds on WOT, lulz were often had with tailgating motorcyclists. Ironically by the time I could afford to pay for dyno time to re tune it, I was sick of the car anyway. Got pretty damn quick @ replacing spark plugs every 10000km due to fouling though! I'd be getting the AFRs etc checked on it if I were you

The 6l is a different animal to the 5.7 - more comp, WAY better heads and different ECU etc, tend to see better gains out of them once modified; from 240-260rwkw usually (on a Mainline), so yeah around 320fwkw or thereabouts. Bolt on Gen 4 6Ls often run mid to high 12s on the quarter FYI.

how did your tuna find tuning the ITBs? lol.

No the VE will pump your R32, TD06 or not. The only solution to this is to fit a L98/77 6L to your R32.

the original was fun, but so were most of the RTS's that came out after it that aped the same gameplay