Haxorz

Mine is stock as a rock though!? Well, I just added a K&N Panel filter. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check it out. I'll also re-inspect all other fuse connections as there are fuses for these exact systems right next to my starter motor fuse.

Hi guys, Driving to work this morning (and yesterday morning) several of my warning lights come on whilst driving. It’s a combination of TCS OFF, SLIP and CHECK ENGINE, or TCS OFF, SLIP and ABS. I’ll slow down, turn the car off, turn it back on again several times and that seems to clear it. Sometimes it takes a few times to do this. It’s as if they only come on once I reach a certain speed and go off once I go below a certain speed and restart the car. As far as I can tell the car drives just fine, and the traction control works well. I have been removing my starter motor fuse from under the hood whilst I am waiting for my upgraded immobiliser and alarm installation. I wonder if I’ve dislodged any other fuses during this constant removal and replacement? They all seem fine to me. Anyone else experienced this? Would an ECU reset 'clear' this? Cheers, David.

Hey mate, I just had a good discussion on this very topic. Check this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=114260 David.

So, out of all the adds on on this page: http://www.mongoose.com.au/accessories/?category_id=14 You'd go: Glass Break Shock Tilt I'm also thinking of a pair of these: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LA5255 116dB Screamers from Jaycar From what it sounds in practical use that microwave and ultrasonic will cause too many false alarms. What does everyone else think? I'm thinking the FM transmitter is a bit of a waste of $ as well?

Sorry mate, wasn't exactly sure on what angles you were after however here are a few shots.

No worries, will take photos tomorrow and post. In the meantime - does anyone think it worth going a microwave sensor over a shock sensor? Would having a shock sensor only mean that I'd come back to a car with a stuffed lock and dented door? Or would they they test for a shock sensor first before proceeding?

All that said, FRX026, but is the product itself OK (albeit imperfect marketing and installation support network). I don't care if there is a spelling mistake on the website if my car is still where I leave it when I return. Only way I can see beating this system is by roll starting manuals or replacing the starter motor (or tray truck of course as per all systems).

So NATS includes an alarm? I certainly can’t see a speaker. How would I set it off if it did? Is there anything I can check to see if it has NATS? My R34 key is pretty chunky (as if it had a chip or whatever). I only have one as well and if I lose this I think I’ll be stuffed! I wonder if I should get a key cut and try to start the car with this key. That should prove that the key has something in it.

I just got myself a nice R34 and I want to secure it. I’ve got my mind made up on a good alarm and immobiliser. I’ve just been speaking with a respected security expert who tells me the security on the S15 amazing. He said it features NATS (Nissan Anti Theft System) which is almost bulletproof. He said it’s like smartlock on the Fords. Adding anything extra to these systems is simply a waste in his view. He doesn’t however know what the security is like on the R34’s. Does anyone know what it’s like? Does the R34’s feature NATS? If so, I don’t want to waste a good $750 on adding another system (or worse, stuff up the existing security system). Has anyone had a R34 stolen with factory security (not a mate of a mates sisters dog, a real example)? My just car insurance premium came in damn low. This indicated to me not many are stolen…

Also very keen to hear from a powerlock customer about it's performance.

Well, car has just been purchased. If the turbo explodes within the first 3 months I’ll let you all know! Hmmmm…. R34..... Black….. Oooooooh baby.

No pod.

This one was a 9/1999 model. I wonder if the build date has anything to do with it?

Hey mate - how did you go? I'm in the same position with you. Got a stock R34. BATMBL dump + front (have had one on my R33 for 2 years and it's been good), maybe the CATCO large cat (non-stainless) and perhaps the Fujitsubo Legalis from BT Rev. A friend has that Fujitsubo exhaust and the cars got good power and it's nice and quiet. Not angled either which is nice. All up though looks like I might be getting close to $2k after fitting... argh

A slight sucking/swishing induction noise. Not as loud as a pod of course.

An alternative to the pod is just to replace the regular filter with a K&N performance one. I've also had a few mates drill holes in their stock airboxes. A lot cheaper, still get the noise, better performance and doesn't attract attention from EPA/police.

Just got the exhaust checked out. It is a piece of crap - verified! It has two pipes going into the muffler, one of them is about as big as a 20c piece and the other maybe as big as a golf ball (no joke). The valve just closes one of the pipes.

I just got a report back on an R34 I'm looking to purchase. The report said that the turbo makes a whistling sound under boost. The guy who performed the inspections knows skylines well and owns one himself. He said this is not normal but has heard it once before on another skyline. Is this bad? Or does it not matter? The car also doesn't perform as I think it should but then again it's only running the stock exhaust and I'm used to my R33 with a full 3" system. Apart from this the car is in excellent condition and has done few km's. The mechanic said he 'doesn't really know' if it's a bad thing or not. Any turbo gurus? Does the turbo have a clipped fin and is stuffed or what?

Thanks mate, this is exactly the information I was after. Looks like that whole system is about to become a garage decoration if I get that car. Guess I’ll just have to budget in about $1800 for a good full system when I’m comparing other vehilces. That damn exhaust sure does add up when you add dump + front + cat + cat back + fitting. Doh.

Good to know its much better - I would have thought so. I added several kw just by doing a rear muffler change on a 200sx once. Does anyone know if it's possible to weld a custom 3" exhaust up to this Nizmo rear muffler? Or won't this work as this muffler has a 2.5" inlet? It looks like its a great muffler and I don't want to have to throw it away, that's all.

Can any ID these shocks? I don't have a picture, but they also have bright R34 yellow springs. I'm guessing they are a Japanese brand.

I too am looking for an manual R34 GTT. I have found that local 'for sale' prices range from 28k - 33k. What do they actually sell for though is another question. There is quite a few 'must sell, going overseas, urgent' for sale at the 28k mark. I'd imagine if I visited any of these with $26k in my backburner I'd be driving away in a new car. Considering before the importing rules changed several years (2?) ago you could get a nice R34 landed and complied for $29k I'd say a lot of these people seriously expecting more than $30k 'are dreaming'. However, now with the new laws to import what I want I'd be looking at around 30k + the hassle. I guess another factor is the price of the previous shape. Good examples of the R33 can be had for as little as $16k locally or as low as $13k importing yourself. I guess these factors makes it hard to value. Given this, I'm looking to pay around the $30k mark if it's exactly what I want. My 2c.

I'll have to measure it. I guess what I'm trying to figure out is am I getting bang for my buck spending the $850 - $1,100 on replacing this exhaust with a new cat back system. There is no doubt I'll be getting a front/dump pipe regardless. I mean, if this is 3" but it's not 'as optimal as it could be', surely spending a grand on the car for just a small improvement isn't worth it. If it's only 2.5" then that's another story I guess. I posted some pics in the original post, were these deleted by mods? I shrunk them and everything!

I'm looking at an R34 GTT for sale. Here is a photo of it's exhaust. This is a Nizmo factory option, right? I've been on Prestiges list long enough to learn most of the factory options and am pretty sure it is. It also has that interior 'Sports / Silent' switch in the cabin under the steering wheel to the right. My current R33 has a custom 3" from turbo to cat then a HKS 3.5" cat back + an Apexi air pod and has 160rwkw. This R34 didn't seem to go as hard (it just has this exhaust, no pod or other power mods), but maybe cause it was newer and smoother? Dunno. Thought it was strange though cause the R34 supposed to have a few extra KW's over an R33. Anyway, my questions: - Can anyone tell what size this exhaust is? 2.5"? 3"? - Does anyone know anything more about this spec of exhaust? - The dump/front pipe is still the standard (restrictive one) right? - Is it worth replacing with a 3 or 3.5" exhaust? - Is there a big power difference between 'silent' and 'sports'? - Dummy question here - will an R33 cat back system fit an R34?

Hi guys, I'm looking at an R34 GTT for sale and am close to purchase. Here is a photo of the exhaust. This is a Nizmo factory option, right? I've been on Prestiges list long enough to learn most of the factory options and am pretty sure it is. It also has that interior 'Sports / Silent' switch in the cabin under the steering wheel to the right. My current R33 has a custom 3" from turbo to cat then a HKS 3.5" cat back + an Apexi air pod and has 160rwkw. This R34 didn't seem to go as hard (it just has this exhaust, no pod or other power mods), but maybe cause it was newer and smoother? Dunno. Thought it was strange though cause the R34 supposed to have a few extra KW's over an R33. Anyway, my questions: - Can anyone tell what size this exhaust is? 2.5"? 3"? - Does anyone know anything more about this spec of exhaust? - The dump/front pipe is still the standard (restrictive one) right? - Is it worth replacing with a 3 or 3.5" exhaust? - Is there a big power difference between 'silent' and 'sports'? - Dummy question here - will an R33 cat back system fit an R34?