Haxorz

Hehe, yeah, it's pretty rude! The tuner said the new exhaust is just flowing so damn well the turbo boosted waaay too much. You can see the boost graph on the charts... it got up to 12psi at it peak and was reduced to 9psi (is this too conservative?). 200rwkw with stock cooler!?!? What sort of boost levels? If so, that's awesome. That's exactly what I want. I just want the odd squirt, not race-track 'lap after lap' performance, so I don't think heat soak is an issue for me. I really didn't think you'd get that power without extra boost, and that I shouldn't boost more than I am without cooler air. If I can get that power on around 9psi via better ECU tuning that's exactly what I want - my idea of working smarter rather than harder. Would the S-AFC really get there without being able to control IGN? I thought there was a lot to gain in the ignition.

Any other GTt owners gone the path of the full exhaust + Power FC with stock intercooler? What sort of power would this get? Would I reach 180rwkw? I know of a R33 GTS25t with a full exhaust + Power FC + AVC-R + stock cooler getting 175rwkw on the same dyno I did my 165rwkw. I know it will mean an extra tune session if I do go up to a FMIC later on, but going FMIC + Power FC (over 200rwkw) will also mean buying a new clutch and perhaps other expensive issues - and considering I don't really want that sort of power anyway...? (well, yet).

Ummm... it's always had this 'whistling' noise on boost. Even from stock. Like a really quiet 'Whizzzzeeee', like an electric engine would make. I think it's different from what you described. Personally, I'm only going to bother with an EBC if I must (i.e. boost all over the place).

Mechanically. Just by placing a bigger than stock restrictor.

Hi Guys, I just thought I'd share my little journey with my R34 and the new exhaust I bought for it. I had a little problem, got it sorted, all is good... although I'm thinking I want more! (the bug has bitten again). Enjoy and I hope it might help one of you out there! David. Started with: R34 GTt 1999 Stock with Nismo option exhaust (with Exhaust Control Valve) K&N Panel Filter No base power run, but I suspect I had a bit more power over stock as I had the Nismo option exhaust (which I believe is much better than stock stock but not as good as a full 3" system). Added: Bosimporting (BATMBL) Split front/dump pipe (stainless) CATCO High flow cat (small) Custom 3" cat back with Magnaflow muffler and resonator (Waverley Exhausts) Observations: More power More boost Boosting earlier Louder - should fit middle muffler as I prefer a quieter car Car misfiring/hesitating at 4000-5000rpm Suspected coil packs after reading the forums Corrective action: Regaped spark plugs to 0.8mm - suggested by Ray from RE Customs Removed misfire/hesitation Dynoed: Discovered big dip in power curve possibly due to ECU engine retartation, Found boost was too high after new exhaust Corrective action: Reduced boost (by restrictor) Dynoed again: Nicer power curve without big dip, although less down low Max power 164.7rwkw (RE Custom Dyno Dynamics, warm day 28 degrees) Air/fuel not too bad, but room for improvement Final thoughts: I was really enjoying the car (below 4500rpm) prior to correcting the issue. If the 'before' power curve went all the way I'm guessing it would have reached a maximum of ~185rwkw. Obviously driving the car at those boost levels was unsafe and would reduce the life of my turbo/engine. If I want to have this type of power day in day out then I need to think about more modifications. I'm considering an Intercooler and Power FC. This would be more power than I think I want however I'm thinking I'd be unhappy with the type of power curve an Intercooler alone would give me (i.e. running too rich, driveablity, etc) and Power FC alone probably wouldn't get me to where I want to be. I also think a SAFC wouldn't quite give me what I'm after. I'd say I'd be happy with manual methods of adjusting boost as long as the curve can be held reasonably steady (like it is now - see graph). One Nismo option exhaust in great condition (less than 30,000kms) soon to be for sale!

I agree. This is rich and retard. Checkout my full story on this thread.

Hello everyone. I am also quite experienced in property investment. The best Australian property related forum IMO is http://www.somersoft.com/forums. I'm DavidMc. Probably a better place to discuss where to invest, questions about depreciation, books to read, trusts, etc, etc, etc (I could go on forever - and usually do!).

Another price drop - $89 firm.

To be honest, I'm unsure. Just my own opinion, unless you have a seriously deviate from factory specs stick with factory recommendations. Having said that, I see you have a FMIC and some other stuff. Perhaps ask a tuner or look around on the forums.

From what I've read I believe you want the largest possible gap that will still create sufficient spark. Unless you've got some serious mods (i.e. you just have a full exhaust), I think 1.0 is fine (down from the 1.1 factory recommendation).

Thanks for the update! I have a similar problem. Did you try epoxying the coils before replacing them as per this thread?

Another price drop - $99 firm. For those who don't know, this is the one with all those extra features. Here is a list I found: "One new GENUINE Greddy Full Auto Timer from Japan. Greddy Full Auto Timer is one of the best selling timers of all time and has many functions such as: * to cool down the engine. * perform as a speed meter for your car. * to automatically calculate and suggest the cool down time. * battery mode indicator and to display 'real time' battery voltage. Crucial for those with sound systems. * Optional sound mode (i.e. to turn the sound ON or OFF). * Attack mode - to record 0-200m, 0-400m, etc. * Attack mode - to record 0-100km/h, 0-200km/h etc. * Stopwatch mode - to record up to 30 laps from 0 ~ 9'59''99 * Best lap time mode - indicated by "BEST" being displayed. * Speed warning mode * Your current speed (with 'real time' speed reading)"

Where are you? I have a very nice one for sale in your price range in Melbourne that's just had a full respray.

Yeah, I'm not going to go over say 220-230rwkw. The question is, are these all just about as good as each other? Should I just go for the one closest to me to save on a bit of postage costs (and potential hassle)?

Far out... is that what my problem could be? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=116103&hl= I did an ECU reset and it hasn't come on since then, however that was just 2 days ago. I just got a new 3" full exhaust and when I gun it it has this MASSIVE hesitation/stutter at around 5000rpm. The exhaust pops a little bit more than I think it should as well... Excuse my lack of knowledge, but is the coil the thing that gives electrical power to the spark plugs? How much does it cost to replace these? And who would you get to do this? A Nissan dealer? Any good way to confirm that this is the problem? My R34 has only done 31,000kms (I do believe they are genuine - I paid big for this and have service history) but is a 1999.

I’m currently looking at an Intercooler for my R34 GTT. I just can’t resist those low low prices! (thanks China). The three standout ones seem to be: Just Jap - http://www.justjap.com/parts_nintercoolers.htm ($499 on the website) Croydon Racing Developments - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=127373 ($349 forum price) Hypergear - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=132082 ($350 forum price) BTW I’d rather get one from one of these guys than eBay. Are all of these pretty much the same? Are they the same? Can any R34 owners comment on them? Piping line up OK? Boy, I remember back in the day when you’d have to add a 1 in front of these prices...

Can I ask what you expect to get out of a Fujitsubo over this one? I understand you're also not a fan of cannon's or noisy mufflers. I mean, do you expect it to be quieter, look better or something else? Surely it'll cost you a lot for no real tangible gains in power or performance? The reason I'm asking as I'm also a fan of the Fujitsubo Legalis R. I'm currently looking at a custom build with a Magnaflow muffler cat back, but am worried I won't get the right look or it might be too noisy (or even performance!)... what was your experience?

Can I ask why you swapped it for this one? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=exhaust Cheers, David.

Embarassing question of the day... where is the ECU Compartment? Is it on the passenger side? I'm also going to give the ECU reset a go. Failing all this, I'll be taking it to a Nissan Dealer for a service. $250 for a 'minor' service... but at least they can check it with CONSULT.

Price drop $115. Still for sale. Prefer call or txt, as I don't frequent the forums much (I missed a few PMs - sorry).

FYI A mate from work said they are HKS. Somehow I don't think anyone cared?

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Hi all, Item is in excellent condition. Pick up preffered. Asking $130. 0439 328 436 or PM. Regards, David.

Are there any special tricks to remove the airbag and replace it other than the security screw? For example, I think I would want to disconnect the battery for at least one minute first and unplug that little plug I can see that goes into the yellow wire. I’m also guessing that I do not want to start the car whilst the airbag is disconnected as I don’t want the car to go into a ‘limp home’ mode or something similar. I understand newer Fords will emit a warning beep sequence for the next 250 starts if you ever do that!

Don't know of a shop you can walk into and purchase but Chris Rogers from this forum will post you one down from QLD at a reasonable price.