wrxhoon

Post a pic of the exhaust side and I'll tell you for sure if its stock ceramic or aftermarket steel. By the way the so called ceramics are not ceramic and the so called steel are not steel either.

Whats your engine number ? 64000 will be a 33 engine NOT 34.

If they fit a 5 stud skyline they will NOT fit any of the other cars you say they will .

Good work Kris, looks like you found your twin there as well, I wish it was me though ( driving it). Maybe time to sell the M-spec for a 35?? As for the bowsers on the top, thats almost normal in Japan, I thought you would have seen them before!!

Updated , some stuff still left, may consider offers...

You are covered only CTP cover though, no property damage, if you need that you will have to arrange it but I'm not sure if any of the majors will do it .

You can drive it to your nearest workshop via the most direct route and you are covered by insurance as well ( CTP only of course) . You will need to have with you a letter or something about your appointment. I think you will find you will not be covered to travel to Sydney though but check with RTA and if they say yes make sure you get it in writing ( email or something ).

I live in the area and I was on Oaks rd about then, I would say It was me in this .

Do you live in the area ? Was it pearl ?

If its any help , I have had 265x35x18 tyres ( St 115, T1r's and others) on 18x10's 12 offset on stock R33 GTR suss without any issues at all. The fronts will rub the plastic inner guard sometimes on full lock when the tyres are new but who cares, how fast are you going to be going on full lock? How often are you on full lock? I would use either 265 or 275x35x18 .

Unfortunately NOT mate, I wish..... Maybe whyte will take my offer ????

If thats so, get me a 35 that I can register in AUS and I'll give you 2 R34's including an M-spec in your favourite colour!!!!

I have a set in Sydney, PM with an offer if you are keen .

Still available.

This is what I mean, low on oil, they don't hold enough as it is and he was low as well, not enough oil in the sump , the pump picks up air, no oil in the bearings, guess what happens next???

Another RB26 with big end gone , time for a re-build. These engines don't hold much oil, run them low .... you are looking for trouble ...

I don't know anyone near Bondi, give this guy a call he should come to you and fit it for under $250, if not go to O'breins or something like that but they are not cheap. Smithfield autoglass ph:9757 1157, mob: 0411 329 692

Location?

Its a good idea to tell us what car? Is it a GTR? pull clutch? Push clutch? With the twin plate you should have got a new flywheel and a release bearing, you re-use your old fork.

I wouldn't use a suss piston , it will cost you heaps to fix later . dalostcambo, whats the piston to bore clearance ? I think Arias specify 4thou, a little to rattly and blowby for a road car but good for a track car. Adriano, different weight piston will not effect any of the above unless the piston was different size, different weight pistons will unbalance the motor though, I may say that they are almost always different weights ( only by a small fraction, mostly unnder one gram) this is why you weigh the pistons and the rods, then use a heavier rod with a lighter piston to balance . Its best to balance them all with the crank, flywheel and cluth on a high reving engine.

Of course a late model Bommie will make a more relaxed daily than a line .... The more people that think like you the longer GMH will keep on making 60yo engines with pushrods . I have a 4WD wit 4 valves per cyl and no pushrods and the Yanks are still selling pushrod cars??? If we all think like you we would still be driving T model fords !!! Thankfully we don't .

I did say stock engines ( cars or bikes) and I gave you some examples of cheap cars.... 60yo engine exacly my point , it shouldn't be around, it has no place in todays technology. Thats why I told him to get rid of it and buy a modern engine of half the cubes.

You will be running out of hands, ok not most but lots . Just about all jap bike engines will fit the bill here, what about a 1.8 celica, 1.8 rolla with the same Yamaha engine, the odd Nissan 1.6, a few Hondas, Lotus, just a few that come to mind and all the mega $$$ Euros . You DON'T need 5.8lt turbos to make that kind of power, unless of course we are talking about 60yo tech as is the case with the Generals old donk.

I have seen plenty cracked with less power than that, of course some won't.

Are you telling us you want to drive a high HP GTR and you don't want to spend money rebuilding it again? You want to build a high HP GTR on a budget ?? That doesn't happen dude. If you have almost unlimited budget and you can find an engine builder that will blueprint everything several times then you may get something reliable. If you don't want to spend money ( lots of it ) then leave it stock but get rid of the stock turbos, replace them with something small and steel wheel ( GTSS are ideal for a stock engine), get a decent clutch and if the drivetrain is in good nick just keep driving it. If you want 350AWKW , get a new block, N1 at the very least or preferably Nismo GT, a Jap strocker kit , like Tomei, HKS etc..find a good machine shop to do the boring/honing ( give them one piston) preferably with a torque plate and check your new crank to make sure its not bent. Find another good machine shop to service your cyl head, maybe port it a little, supply them with new valve springs, maybe guides and retainers . Finaly you have to find a good assembler to put it together making sure he double checks everything along the way . Total cost ??? well it will depend on how much you buy the parts and how much time your assembler will spend but at a rough guess including a new pair of turbos, manifolds , dumps, ebc, larger radiator, larger I/cooler, larger injectors , fuel pump , fuel pressure reg, hard I/cooler pipping, a few gauges to monitor everything, oil cooler, new twin plate clutch, new gearbox, leave the front/rear diff ( who knows when one will blow), maybe a larger sump or at the very least sump baffles , I'm sure I have forgotten something ... You will not get it done under $50k if you give the car to someone to do it, evn if you buy parts on the cheap. How do I know ??? Been there and done that more than once, if you try to cut corners it will cost more , just ask others that have done that .