wrxhoon

You say you wasnt driving it, was it knocking the last time you drove it ? If yes the big ands gave up due to oil starvation , spun kept driving and the rest .......... If it wasnt knocking then the dodgy patch up job has more weight , like pete said . Either way if the engine was recently built well i wouldnt gat tem to build mine .. I feel sorry for you Charlie , something like that happen to me about 3 years ago. Mine a turbo spat the wheel out and stuffed the engine while someone else had the car and took it around the block, he even lost it and hit the kerb !!!

More than likely its the swich probably broken inside .

My bet is its overboosting , then the ecu cuts boost to about 7 psi so it feel gutless . How much boost are you running usualy? does it go to the end of the stock gauge ? When it feels gutless does it only go to half way ?

Then it must be just the turbo leaking and you should still have boost . If the comp is 170 on all 6 the ringlands + pistons are still ok .

My guess is when the turbo let go , the engine sucked ceramic dust from the exhaust wheel and has scored your bore . Have you done a compression test since the turbo let go ? If not do a comp test and a leakdown and then you will be able to tell for sure if its just the turbo or both engine and turbo.

A little hard to tell but the a/r on the snail should be 60 if they are N1's and they should have the ajustable N1 actuators too. The serial number on the tag will tell you the core for sure but its very hard to see on the car . Normal 33 turbos are ceramic exhaust wheels, N1 are steel . N1 are much bigger turbos than normal turbos .

I wouldnt use 2 pack paint in the open air , you need a spray booth to get a good resault and you need a very good mask , its deadly stuff. You can use acrylic in the open air without to many problems as long as its not windy where you are going to do it . If you never done it before, dont do it just try painting one panel first so you get some practice . As you are a beginer thin your paint heaps and spray it as wet as possible without getting any runs . Dont forget that paint wont cover any imperfections on the panels ar sandmarks . Use primer filler to fill any sandmarks and rub it with 600 . Any dood conditionpaint on the car just rub with 600 , only enough to take the shine off , you dont need to prime . If you are painthing metalic top up with at least 3 coats of clear . The next day cut back with 1200 then buff for a mirror shine that will last for a long time but of course not as long as 2 pack . Rather than tape remove as much stuff as you can , like door handles , lights etc and dont paint mirrors and door frames unless they are in need . As a minimum you will need a 8 cfm compressor and because you are a begginer use a small gun ( one that throws out very little paint ) . When you get more practice you can use a bigger gun so you can do the job quicker . And never paint in the open ( even inside ) if there is moisture in the air , like cloudy weather or high humidity, pick a nice sunny day , not to hot or to cold ( not bellow 20 or above 30 degrees ).

32or 33 because we don't want to many 34's here .

Serries 3 gtr headlights are the same as serries one except for the mounting brackets on the grill . I have fitted Gtst h/lights to a GTR ( s1 gts to s1 gtr ) The headlight needs a slight mod to do it but if you want to fit gtr h/l to gts you need the gtr grill as well if you want a proper fit . It can be done with your gts grill but you will have to sikaflex them in . Like you said s3 gtr h/l are very hard to find ( good luck finding them for $1000 per pair) but i dont know how easy you can fit 34 h/lights on your 33 , i have a pair here and if you are in Sydney you are welcome to try if you like .

She is going very cheap too, bargain at 270 y

Who told you that ?

You can fit gts h/lights to gtr but you have to mdify them , Gtr to gts you have to check the brackets on the grill they are not the same .

They should be under $200 from Nissan , cheaper if you get aftermarket . You should get the whole set for 6 pistons and make sure you measure the used piston. You cant/ shouldnt use old rings on a honed bore . I must say you trying to cut corners and do it on the cheap so you may have to pull it out again shortly atfer to do it properly .

Nissan have them . You are looking for trouble using second hand pistons for starters . Do u know that the pistons are graded ? If you want to use your old pistons ( i wouldnt ) at least buy a new piston ( same grade as the old one ) from Nissan . The rb 26 pistons you have will be lower compression.

I have my own supplier in Japan but i would think nengun or greenline would do them . If you cant get them and you are in sydney let me know and i'll get them for you . If i remember right they were about $300 for the 5 of them for my 34 gtr .

Japan , thats where i got mine from .

I bet if someone bought one of these 2 by the time the get here they will have low ks just like the rest of them . Maybe i'm a bit cynical ? Its a fact all the ones i see for sale here have around the 30-40 k genuine ks .

No mate you heard right , a r34 GTT MANUAL ( as in 5 speed with a clutch ) 2 DOOR , silver with 6xxxx ks ( under 70 k ks) if you can believe oddos , in good nick , all stock with aftermarket headunit only , almost new tyres . Has been in the country for about 12 months and rego is due next month ( yes its registered in nsw ) . If you have the cash and you want it just say so and i'll put u on to the seller . I know of another one sold for $26 last week with 12 months rego , same as above but white .

They are direct fit and should be about right for the power you want 350rkw is about the limit though . All you will need is new 0 rings , pull the rail out nad fit them on .

If you are in sydney i can get you a 2 door gtt manual for $24k , all stock , silver and in good nick .

It should have 134a in it , if it has the r12 in it you can retro fit , you change the dryer and the valves and then regass . Some old 33s may have the r12 , all cars sold in australia post 94 have the new gas .

First report it to the police, then send a letter of demand to the driver/owner with a copy of the quote and give them 7 days to pay . If you dont hear from them a second letter and finaly if you still dont hear go to your local court and send them a summons for the repair bill + the summons cost and delivery . Once they receive that they usualy pay , if they dont you go to court and take an order . Its a long process if they want to play hard but in the end you will get all your money and costs , as long as you can prove they were at fault ( not hard as you have a witness ). Of course if you had comprehensive insurance it would be much easier but then again not in your case because the damage would be less than your exces( more than likely ) and in this case in most policies you are on your own !! If i was you i would get a 3rd party policy as a very minimum just in case and most of them have a small cover( usualy 3-5 k) for your car in case of theft or damage caused by an uninsured driver ( like you ) as long as its not your fault .

I do but i'm not selling it for $40 , if you want to make me a better offer i'll consider

Most general road tyres are niether directional or assymetric, so the tyre fitter can fit them any way on any corner. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thats true too Duncan but there are few that are either left or right so they can only be fitted one way . Yoko andvan use to have them i dont know if they still do though but generaly they are not widely used, they are very rare .

I have one in sydney , make me an offer .