The Bogan
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Posts posted by The Bogan
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7 minutes ago, kevboost7 said:
Also, are these considered "coil-overs"?
Coil over damper, so yes
90% of OEM suspension is "coil over", just no adjustments in them, typically
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13 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:
Sorry, how do you ... tune.... a bearing?
10 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:Run very soft timing in the mid range to reduce bearings getting thrashed.
Once you make peak torque, then ram it in like you're pounding a ....
I wonder if a my stock ECU can do this
This, if possible, would help me alot with traction in 1st gear from the dig, even with 275/40 17 drag radials at 15psi on a prepped drag strip I cannot "stomp" to hard as it just spins the rears
A little less "power", from say idle to 2500-3000 (ish????) rpm, would help with the mad PD blower torque from just off idle
I really need a good aftermarket ECU with 2 maps, 1 for the street, and 1 for the strip
Yes, my throttle control Kung Fu is weak in that regard when launching
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6 hours ago, kevboost7 said:
I did some research on this a while back. Dynamat, kilmat, or any type of rubber deadener is only meant to prevent vibrations. It can be used as a sound proofer but theoretically, it wont prevent sound transmission. So you want the first layer with dynamat, then another foam type insulation on top of that to provide the best sound isolation.
I've used commercial underlay from this joint, yes it is used, but, you can get big offcut that are as new, and cheap
The 10-15 mm commercial stuff is fairly firm and perfect for under the carpet in a car
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Got a new reverse camera, the old camera went like the poltergeist TV screen, new camera technology is awesome
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Ground hog day
Spent "most of the day" giving the car a full detail, started by putting it on stands and cleaning the under body and inner guards, and wheels, then stripped off all the old wax, then washed and polished a few little micro scratches out, then "lovingly" applied some Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba wax, by hand, using the warmth of my hands to soften the wax then smearing it "lovingly" into the paint (probably weird, but it works so well)
After letting it cure for 1/2 an hour, enough time to clean and vacuum the interior, I buffed it off with about 10 microfibres, the paint looked excellent, I love the way wax gives that deep look to the paint
After it was all smick I stood back and bathed in all of it's heavenly glory
Then took it for a cruise, lovely day, car runs a dream, perfect.......until it started to rain on the way home
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24 minutes ago, r32-25t said:
There’s still a lot of work to go into that job, it won’t look anything like that when it’s finished
But it shouldn't look like that now
Precedence should have seen the pole moved before the road was laid down when they decided to realign the road, it should have been moved before working the subgrade at the lesst, not after a base has gone down
Problems will occur after the pole is moved
I've built plenty of sealed and unsealed roads with my job, that there is poor engineering practices, there is no way that would cut the mustard where I work
I've seen plenty of roads that have needed upgraded drainage where they have dug trenches across existing roads to install culverts, within a few years, or something even months, the excavations will eventually consolidate causing low spots in the road surface, especially if they only use a whacker packer for compaction
That pole probably goes down 2 meters, that's a big excavation to remove it, or, like I've seen local councils do, dig down 500mm and cut the pole off, which works until the stump eventually rots and the ground above subsidies, leaving a depression which will eventually fail
We do alot of quality assurance IRT compaction density for our civil construction tasks, hell, one of my jobs is instructing on a course that deals alot with quality assurance, from Geo-technical site investigations for planning, using moisture mensity gauges or old school sand replacement tests, as well as best practice for all of our plant operators
Looking at that pic makes my head hurt
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16 minutes ago, Duncan said:
I just wanted to share this effort from Goulburn Mulwaree council
Full marks for resealing the road. Not so much for attention to detail.
I assume no one was looking at the precedences in the construction Gantt chart
I wonder who was doing the project management?
I wonder who was signing off on it?
At least there will be somewhere for a pot hole to start after they move the pole and do the "typical" patch job on the asphalt
Local council ethos: If a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing half arsed.
I cringe everytime our local council fixes a pot hole or resurfaces a road, you just know it will be worse than what it was within a few months
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On 17/06/2023 at 7:46 PM, Old man 32 GTR said:
How did you get the RFP1’s to clear the brembos, my son just bought a set for his BRZ and they don’t clear the brembos
17 x 8 +45 with 235/45 17
No rubbing anywhere, filled the guards great with a little 20mm drop on some MCA coils
And look at the red VX SS Commodore in the pic, fate?????
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1 hour ago, Old man 32 GTR said:
How did you get the RFP1’s to clear the brembos, my son just bought a set for his BRZ and they don’t clear the brembos
I just got the right offset I think
17 x 8 +45
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I hated my VA1 STI after I realised I would need to build the engine to get any real power for a 1550kg car safety
Pulse Racing did the usual mods to it, intercooler, CAI, injectors, turbo back exhaust and a fuel pump, that gave around 215kwatw, pulse said the turbo was then pretty tapped out, and if I wanted more power it would need a bigger turbo, and a built closed deck engine
The open decked, weak rodded EJ25 is junk in my opinion and should never have been used
In the end I just hated looking at it, it started to look like a Kia sedan to my jaded eyes
It was fun blasting it around on some dirt roads when I was working in Amberley though, but not to inspiring on the road
My 86, after I put a turbo on it to get around 215kwatw, was a much better car to blast around the streets in.....until I backed it into a guard rail after hitting some diesel that was on the road at a roundabout that is
I'm still jaded about killing the 86, I still have epic sads about that, and as they only released 60 of them, it makes the sads epic
But giving the Bogan Cruise Ship a hit now and then does make me forget about the 86, until my daughter reminds me by sending photos of the 2017 Limited edition ones she sees that is, there is one that lives in Goulburn, every time see see it she sends her poor old dad a photo, I really should spend her inheritance on holidays, expensive sports cars and other random stuff.......that will teach her
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So, the new MACE unbreakable engine mounts are in, the engine is now back to standard height, the driveline-(read: engine/transmission/tailshafts/diff) are all nicely aligned again to the correct angles of the dangles
Everything fits nicely "under the bonnet", even with room to spare, driving back to work was a dream, no more NVH from hard poly engine mounts, and as was right in the world
Until..........I gave the beans hard
Harrop designed the blower to fit under the bonnet and have clearance everywhere, the top of the hat had heaps of space, and the rear belt drive had enough room to move up when the engine torqued, but........not when you add 10mm thermal spacers under the hat
What happened was the allen key bolts that hold the rear belt idler on, and a lip on the firewall met and had a issue with each other trying to occupy the same ground, thus war ensued as they both fought to hold the same ground, noisy screeching war, Mark got scared, backed off, and panicked
Apon inspection it seemed all good, maybe 10mm clearance between the allen key bolts and the lip on the firewall..... until you gave it the beans hard and the engine torqued up about 11mm to introduce about 1mm of the top of the allen key bolts to the lip on the firewall
Luckily, Tyson had the correct "firewall tuning" tools on hand for me to use, a big bent 3 foot pry bar, that convinced the lip on the firewall to move a little (probably 10mm) out of the way
So after careful tuning (you cannot really see where we tuned it), we had an ample amount of "no man's land" so that the waring parties would never again meet for hand to hand combat
Testing was conducted again by giving it the beans hard from various roads speeds on the R888R's with great success
Further testing will ensue as I'm going to try and hit WSID next Wednesday and see how it likes doing a big skid then getting stalled up on the foot brake and leaving hard on 275 Micky T drag radials on a sticky surface
Note to self: I must rummage around the workshops at work and find a typical tuning tool to take to the drags with me, if, on the off chance, any further "tuning" is required
Winner winner chicken dinner
How fun is it modifying 🚗
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1 hour ago, awsam said:
I saw a video of someone replacing the Y pipe with a custom fab X pipe to solve it. Do you think that might be a better option to a pair of resonators? Or maybe even both?
Don't know, my experience with X pipes or Y pipes are only with a V8, X pipe on a dual exhaust, or a Y pipe on a single
The X and H pipe dual sounded like thongs clapping, the Y pipe single sounds meaty, both had drone until I fitted a 2 in 2 out muffler on the dual, and a big resonator on the single
As for the sound difference between a X pipe and a H pipe, I have noticed no real difference
Sorry I cannot really help in that regard, but resonators will help with drone, hell even a 2 in 2 out muffler would work if the dual pipes line up
I've run resonators on all of my aftermarket exhausts, the main function of a resonator is to reduce drone
My LS1 has 1 7/8 4:1 headers, dual 3" catted Y pipe to 4" single with a 5" bodied resonator before the diff (had to get a custom one made to fit where I wanted it) and a 4" Varex out back, negligible drone when cruising, even with the windows up and the radio off, hell, my Mrs is always falling asleep when we are cruising around, but, it sounds like war when your on the loud pedal
We do alot of cruising around on Hwy's and country roads, noticeable drone wouldn't cut the mustard
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1 hour ago, silviaz said:
What did you mean by engine swap? I think you replied to one of my other threads about repairable writeoffs having different engines numbers, are you saying if it's different to the original one it can cause issues?
Yes, if the replacement engine has been reported stolen, or gets reported as stolen later on
If it isn't stolen it is a blue slip if I recall correctly and they update your rego papers and stuff on their computer system
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Needs a ???green slip??? NOT a 3rd party slip, one for an unregistered car, or a engine swap
I did this years ago for an interstate car, and on engine swaps
Not 100% on it now though
I do know that if your licence says you live in NSW you only have a short time to get your rego changed to NSW, fines apply if you don't, and the interstate "3rd party" insurance in null and void as well I believe
RMS inspection will require alot of mods to be returned to STD or equivalent as well I believe
You "may" be able to get an engineer to sign off on some of it, there's alot of stuff that needs to comply to do it legally, an engineer can help with it all
Check the RMS website for allowable modifications
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Gave it a wash and wax to clear a week or so of dust off it
All ready to drive down to Goulburn tonight to get covered in insects
I hate driving down to Goulburn at night, Kangaroos and Wombats, fair warning, get to your beds and off the roads
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Super happy with the result
Ample clearance to use OEM height engine mounts
I just need to put the Carbuilders premium under bonnet liner on to finish the "it's stock" look....... under bonnet 🤣, and fit the new engine mounts, then off to WSID for some more fun
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On 24/05/2023 at 3:48 PM, Duncan said:
to me colour is a spectrum, you can be any colour you want to be
I guess I'm on the spectrum then 🤪, I'm lots of colours
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My 2 cents is to get the longest resonators that fit your system
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Impulse buys away
So much for stock engine mounts, these have a larger softer bush than the Tuff Mounts, so less NVH that now, and are OEM height,.......... and are "apparently" unbreakable
Was recommended them by a guy at work who has been running them for years
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As Dose said, 30°c IAT is fine
How locked in are you to your current tuner?
What spring is in the gate?
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1 hour ago, Predator1 said:
Thanks man. Good to hear other people talking about interchillers. I actually emailed them a few times about doing one for me. I was super keen but I ran out of time as I had to leave countr(car is in long term storage now).
Im running a hypertune g2 110mm core which i would have HOPED be enough, but it could be the turbo itself. I have heard the Plazmaman is supposed to be better, but then, I ran out of time.
I dont have a CAI, I run a filter directly behind the Motive headlight with duct.
I really dont want to change my turbo as i love the response of the turbo... but at the same time, I wanted 1000hp *flamesuit on*
IRT interchillers, don't believe everything you hear with the marketing
Don't get me wrong though, my interchiller is working great at keeping my IAT sorted, but, there are additional things that are required for a top mount blower, it needs thermal resistant spacers, mine are 10mm made from some apparently fancy plastic stuff, and some thermal mat on the valley plate to separate the blower from the engine, the heat soak from the block and heads does raise IAT readings, and thermal spacers and mat is recommended by FI interchillers
But with a turbo setup using a interchiller you won't have the heat soak from the engine effecting the intercooler that sits in the blower hat
I could upgrade the system by putting in a larger and more efficient condenser to get the most out of the refrigerant, and a larger reservoir for more volume to have more chilled coolant on hand, but for my usage it isn't required as I haven't seen IAT over 36°c during back to back drag runs and some time on the dyno
I am only pushing 7psi with the biggest pulley that fits though, I cannot really go a smaller pulley for more boost as I'm still on the stock bottom end and I am at the limit to keep my built 4l60e safe, which is 600hp at the engine
If you shut the car down, then start it up again in around a half an hour the IAT starts at around 40-45°c, and takes at least 5 minutes to drop back down to around 25°c
Disclaimer: on a turbo car, when you are at WOT for extended periods, like track sessions, the AC shuts down at high throttle percentages, I probably wouldn't use a interchiller on a WTA cooler, a normal air to water may well be more efficient, or, a normal air to air would most likely be a better choice, maybe????
Also, if you lose AC, the thing heat soaks, alot, they remove the WTA condenser when they fit the interchiller
But, maybe/probably, high IAT temps aren't you problem like they were mine when I only had a WTA cooler
Good luck finding your issues and "may the boost be with you"
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Just dropped the car off at Fineline to cut in the VN Group A bonnet bulge, they are going to see how it looks bolted and glued on first, then "maybe" mould it in, then back to standard height OEM engine mounts, the front Holden badge on the bonnet is also being removed and the locating holes welded up
Should be back to me in around a week
Which ever way Fineline do it it will be quality work, I've had alot of work done by them over the years on my cars and bikes, it has always been excellent work and paint match has always been spot on
Hopefully I don't hate it like the VK reverse cowl that was on before, the VK reverse cowl was too in your face, it lost the windscreen squirters, and was to boxy, the VN buldge is much more low profile and rounded which "should" suit the VX's rounded lines better, but, "failure is always an option when it comes to my good ideas"
Like this, only a bit more towards the front to keep the windscreen squirters and get clearance around the front of the blower and throttle body>
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4 hours ago, Predator1 said:
Yes from memory. I cant remember how much timing he added up top but it wasnt much at all.
Apples and oranges: my supercharged LS1 would start pulling timing once IAT got over 65°c, some safety feature in the tune so I didn't melt pistons or something
At the drags the car would launch hard, but by half track the IAT was around 70°c and for the rest of the run the thing just dropped power
My fix was an interchiller, now my IAT haven't gotten over 36°c at the drags or during tuning on the dyno, the car runs like a boss now
Maybe look at the size of your intercooler, your CAI location, or, are you just maxing out the turbo and it is turning into a flame throwing heat gun, or does it need more fuel for cooling
Well, that's where my uneducated brain and extremely limited knowledge about tuning would look IRT high IAT
Billet Blocks - Oiling ?
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Traction control thing? yes, it is still sitting in a shelf in the shed
I asked about getting it installed, but, the joint I took it to wasn't sure about a few things as they hadn't installed one before, their concerns were splicing in the wiring to the ABS and injectors
They recommend that if I want aftermarket traction control to look at something like a Haltech or other aftermarket ECU that pulls timing, rather than fuel
I need to find someone in NSW who has done one of these Race TCS before so I have the confidence they know what they are doing before I pull the trigger on getting it installed
Whilst it seemed to be a cheap and reliable way to get TC, getting it installed with confidence is problematic