The Bogan
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Posts posted by The Bogan
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18 hours ago, PranK said:
Need some clean shots.
The big block Yaris basking in bushfire haze...probably should have had it in the sun, but meh, in the end it's still just a Yaris
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5 hours ago, PranK said:
Need some clean shots.
I bet that is the first time anyone has asked for pictures of a Yaris, LOL
I did get it insured, Pink slipped and regoed all today, as it was due this Wednesday
The local mechanic who did the pink was impressed with its condition and how well it ran, I told him the story of how I got it and was probably going to flip it soon for around $5.5 -6k for a quick sale, he offered me $5.5k cash on the spot
I was super tempted but told him I need it at least until the Commodore is fixed, he said when I want to sell it to give him a call
I'm currently at just under $3k all in on it after the service and rego stuff, so a quick $2.5k profit would be sweet, I'll give my daughter $1.25k (extra dad points), that will give me a $1.25k earn on the time it took to do the service and clean
$1.25k should almost cover my next trip to Goulburn in the Commodore to take my daughter shopping in Canberra.....LOL
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Got the Yaris home
Fuel economy on the way home used an 1/8th of the full 42 ltrs tank of fuel over about 170km, and it ran like a dream on the hwy (no cruise control unfortunately)
Once home it got some well needed cleaning and love, oil and filter, air filter and some spark plugs, the trans fluid and coolant looks sweet, so nothing to do there
Then I spent the next 5 hours getting it shiny shiny, I soaked the undercarriage, engine bay and body with some truck wash, then hit it all with the pressure washer and got rid of all the built up Goulburn bugs, dust and mud
Then came the first wash and engine bay detail, then polish, then second wash and then finished it off with some wax
The interior got the vacuum and lots of armour all, then the windows, the windows actually took about 3 goes around to get the windows clean, I think my daughter used a oily rag to clean them, they were filthy, the only issue with it is a stone chip on the passenger side, not huge, but still warranting some of that chip repair
It was so enjoyable servicing and cleaning it all, and the before and after is amazing, Oh what a feeling
The seats still need a good clean with the Bissell though, probably next week some time, the daughter drove around with her Staffie in it, they're not that bad, but not to my OCD level of clean will not allow it
Getting the Yaris back now couldn't have come at a better time due to the Cruise Ship being broken, it is booked into Craig's to get looked at on Wednesday, "hopefully" it just needs to be pulled apart, cleaned, and some upgraded shafts put in, more on that later
Once back though, the Bogan Cruise Ship will be relegated to cruise duties only, so no more racing at the strip with drag radials on
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2 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:
Sounds like you have the process nailed for a good launch.
8hp70 conversion time and enjoy trans brake launches with awesome fuel economy.I cannot justify the coin it would cost really
When chatting to Craigs about what I can do, to suit what I want the car to do, lots of Hwy cruising (so not a built T400 because no overdrive or lock up), and the occasional run down the strip, they suggested a built 6L80e conversion, they rate them at 800hp at the engine, and with my current power I could beat on the 6L80e all day at the drags, to try and run a 10.??? "but" the drive in and drive out cost is north of $20k though
They also said I could then turn up the boost a bit and still keep the transmissionin in its happy place, but then I'm still on stock internals, and stock driveshafts, and from talking to a few modified LS1 owners, and a couple of tuners, I don't want to go over the torque that the engine is currently making
That's lots of coin to spend when you start adding it up, and all to just do some more PB's on the strip, in a "street car"
I'm trying to not explode the budget into the stratosphere, but still have some reliability for the power the car is making now
Adding up risk vs reward
Probable scenario: some billet stuff for piece of mind and added reliability whilst the box is out, but no more drag radials on a sticky surface, the sticky tyres slipping and grabbing when launching and the torque the engine makes is the elephant in the room, which is sitting on the 4l60e
Whilst a 10.??? would be nice for bragging rights, it doesn't help with cruising around on the street on street tyres, which the car sees 99.9% of the time
The VX is a awesome big comfortable cruiser though, and it fits the whole family in, and it already rolls on hard enough to make me smile
Sad, but true
Unless I win Lotto, then all bets are off
Note to self: buy a Lotto ticket one day
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1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:
Get them to consider cryo-treating the new one. The guys at the automatic box shop across the road from me do a lot of drag cars of various sorts, and in particular some Barra turbos. They achieved much better capacity and life from cryo-treating the input shafts on the Barra boxes, and also on some of the other stuff they work on.
Cheers, will definitely look into that
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Booked into Craig's Automatics next Wednesday to see what let go, possibly some billet parts are required, from chatting to them it sounds like the input shaft let go
I'll tell you what though, when I launched it after a huge burnout it just hooked and was probably the best launch the car has ever done, well, until it went BANG
Anyways, time will tell on what is required
In other high performance news, I pick up the big block Yaris this Saturday, I'll catch the train down to Goulburn, hang with the offspring, then roll back to Sydney on Sunday arvo in Yaris style, so, all of the fuel efficiency, and extremely slow 🐌 😀 👌 👍
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58 minutes ago, Duncan said:
farq
Meh, cars hey,LOL
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26 minutes ago, MBS206 said:
What was your best 1/4 mile before this?
11.2ish
Then the 11.04 but didn't get a 10.999 when I had another run, I did a big bang when I tried for it though
The 4l60e was rated at 600hp at the engine, my car make about 600hp at the engine
I was warned that even though it was a built transmission it wouldn't like big hits on drag radials
Meh, I'm getting my monies worth out of my NRMA membership, so there's that, LOL
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Close, but no cigar
The start line is pretty average though
I'll have 1 more go and see if I can get a better 60'
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So far so good...
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Gave the Cruise Ship a mini service, new engine oil and filter, also drained the diff and gave it some fresh oil, also put some new brake pads in because from a sideways glanced they looked low, found out they had heaps of meat still left, meh, changed them anyway and bled the brakes
Then looked at the weather forecast, it looks good for tomorrow, that got me thinking
Race prep involved me putting the drag radials on, removing 2 umbrellas, a few towels, a pair of crocs, and a straw hat from the boot, the car is now race ready for a few runs down the strip tomorrow night at WSID
I also put my tyre pressure gauge is in the centre console, I forgot it last time and was running around 30 psi in the drag radials
Yes, I do have my local tilt tray guy on speed dial
I will either be posting slips, or pics of the car on a tilt tray......again.....
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I would look at some plate underneath anything you are thinking of drilling throufh and attaching fixtures.
Even a small amount of side loading could cause issues
Safety first
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1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:
My street tyres really have to be able to hold up to everything. I just drove down to Sydney for WTA, if a crazy storm hit on the way back up to QLD, I still want to be confident with the way the car handles and feel that I can safely get home.
That's good news for the RS4's, I was a little concerned when I measured the tread depth at just under 6mm, I would be over the moon to get 20k out of them.
I'm surprised how much life you got out of the R888R's as they are rated at 100 treadwear.
Fair point on needing all round tyres, that's why I went back to the RS4
As for how long the R888R's lasted, I was surprised as well, although I pretty much just cruise around like Nana 90% of the time, it did rack up most of the km on lots of trips up and down the Hwy to Goulburn and back, I got the R888R's initially to try and get some traction from the dig, and while they were much better than the RS4's they still had traction issues, thus they were replaced with some drag radials for the strip and rolls
The RaceTCS has helped massively with the RS4's on the street with traction though, both in the dry and more importantly wet conditions
Happy travels
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2 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Reporting back on the NS2R 120 treadwear. I only got 6,400 KM on the rears, no track work and no shenanigans on the road.
They were really nice while they lasted, even in the wet. I would really like to get around 10,000 km from my street tyres so I'm trying RS4 now.
Initial thoughts on the RS4 are the dry grip levels feel similar to the NS2R, so if I can get 10,000 km out of them I'll be really happy and probably won't bother trying any other street tyres and I'll just stick with them.
If your car doesn't come out to much in the wet Toyo R888R's last well, I got about 10k km out of them before putting RS4's back on, the R888R still had a few mm left from the tread wear markers when they came off, so probably another few k km's
The R888R's were the best "fair weather" street tyre I have ever used, BUT, they didn't like pools of standing water
I do alot of Hwy driving, rain, or shine, and whilst the R888R's were exceptional in the dry on the street they really didn't inspire confidence when hitting pools of water on the Hwy doing 110 kph
If my car was just a sunny Sunday cruiser I would definitely still be running the R888R's, the difference between dry grip between the R888R's and RS4's is large, as you would expect
From my experience with the RS4's you are likely to easily get 10-15 even 20k km out of them on the street if you aren't doing lots of skids or track work
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Some older models only have 1 before for fueling, later they also had 1 after to measure emissions and the efficiency of the cat
My old (2002) only has 1 before the cat
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12 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Making the shit box, less shit by about 0.1%
Started by taking out the harness bar, seats, trim, parcel tray.
Going to change the RCA leads as the current set has a bolt through it lol. Then upgrade the headunit, install 2x baby seat tether points (turns out buying them new is cheaper than trying to buy them on FB or off a wrecker, funny right?). Will then leave the trim and shit off, and remove the stupid dark tint and replace it with something normal and legal.
After all that, will then go back to fab for a few small changes, such as a better catalytic converter and the catch can Venturi.
If anyone is reading this and wants to buy this shit heap, please buy it off me so I stop spending money on it.
Swaps for a big block Yaris, I know what I got....
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6 minutes ago, DarcyMcElwaine said:
alright thank you so far no one really knows ahaha
Well it wasn't from Nissan/Nismo, lots of tuner shops and dealers put their own spin on things, like the Yenko Camaro in the states to name just one over there in 'Merica, also some shops here in AU did dealer specials years ago, much like the Walkinshaw packages you get nowadays
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1 minute ago, DarcyMcElwaine said:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/266267864405 so your saying this is like a dealer catalog than not for this actual car?
Maybe, probably
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SAU search
Not Nissan, it was a dealer spec car
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http://kurosorablog.com/2020/12/280typemr-the-rarest-of-the-rare-gts-t
First thing that popped up on Googles
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52 minutes ago, kevboost7 said:
What do you mean it leaked under boost? How can you tell?
I had a smoke/pressure test done at Unigroup engineering years ago
https://gfb.com.au/tech/tech-articles/15-smoke-testing-boost-leaks/
That was at least 15 years ago though, my memory ain't what it use to be
I just remember them saying that the Blitz valves were junk and had a bad habit of leaking
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Daughters new Cerato GT turned up, real nice little rig, she is having a blast "running it in"
Soon I will have the big block Yaris in the shed to tinker with and daily
She has kept the Yaris well maintained over her ownership, although first up, will be a full service, then a good going all over and under with the pressure washer, then detail, wash, polish and wax to get all the squished Goulburn bugs off it, and all shiny shiny
One of my favourite things about new old cars is the initial servicing and cleaning.....weird
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Hardy Spicer said if I wanted a strong custom tail shaft that handled all of the rpm it would cost around $2-3k, but that also included different yokes and replacing the rubber coupling for uni-joints
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1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Yeah the kit doesn't work with R33 RB25s as the PS pulley is a 3 rib not 4 rib like the R34 RB25. Because of that the offset is wrong and using the RB26 spacer that is supplied doesn't support the belt properly. Using it without the spacer the idler fouls with the AC belt.
All they really needed to do was machine down a RB26 spacer to make it work on a R33 RB25 with AC. I suppose people spitting belts, generally don't have AC.
I kept spitting PS belts with a Ross balancer on my 25/30, Unigroup did some measurements and found the alignment was off, but after using some small washers on the PS bracket it was OK
Yes it was a 25/30, but that was explained when the trigger kit was purchased, albeit over 10 years ago
Scissor lift mount point help..
in General Automotive Discussion
Posted
Did you work out the centre of gravity of the vehicles?
Is the 125x75x6mm bolted to the lift frame?
Whilst it looks like it works, it reminds me of a long board overhanging on some work horses, get the weight wrong and to far up one end and all hell could break loose if it tips forwards or backwards
I would run at least 4 nice sized bolts equally spaced through each of the hoist base and the tube, and use some 6mm flat bar underneath the hoist "ramps" to reinforce the underside to prevent the bolts pulling through
Safety first, hospital or smashed car second