The Bogan
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Posts posted by The Bogan
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Drove to Goulburn to visit my daughter
Goulburn has it all, wet, and cold
I'll probably be living here permanently in 2 years when I retire so I better harden up
Even with the wet and cold it still beats living in the Sydney suburbs though
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Politically incorrect, but funny, well..... . .
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2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:
Road tyres do not hook with powerful cars. They just don't. There is no road tyre that will. Shit if you launched on actual road racing slicks they probably still wouldn't.
This is why drag radials, dedicated tyres for this exact scenario (and only this scenario) exist. It's also why I scoff a bit when people talk about V8's being laggy in their delivery and "this cam won't provide grunt down low" that you see in V8 circles. It's like... what on earth are you talking about, as I struggle to maintain traction from a stop at 2500rpm and 50% throttle with my 'laggy, dead down low' cam.
And you boosted it with a non-centrifugal option, you DAMN ROOKIE!I believe alot of people only look at peak HP numbers, not the torque curves, and definitely not drivablility
They focus on peak HP on a dyno sheet
Also some build their street car engines to perform high in the RPM range with massive cams or turbos suited to racing at the track of strip, then complain that they are a pig to drive on the street because they have built out the response down low, fine if you can sit at the line on a transbrake or launch control, not so much when you want to take of quick from a set of lights
I'm glad I found SAU all those years ago, and although I've made some "poor choices" in the years after, the info I have gained here has limited the number of poor choices the voices in my head, or other internet experts from the Googles have advised is the "way to go"
10 points to SAU
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1 hour ago, MBS206 said:
When you say full hard on the rear and soft on the front, what do you mean exactly?
Spring stiffness? Or shock bound / rebound?
My Pedders Extreme suspension only has dampening settings, but the spring rates are excellent for the street, for the dampening settings on the street I currently have them set at 8 clicks from full soft on each end (there is 30 clicks between full soft and full hard), works well for rough Sydney roads
When I got them I started playing around from full soft, and kept clicking over a few weeks of driving to get the compliance I was after
On full soft, if I hit a bump/pothole it would hit the bump stops, on 8 clicks from soft it glides over bumps like a Limo which is what I want for the street
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7 hours ago, MBS206 said:
Raising front to rear is wayyyyyyyyyyy more complicated than weight transfer.
It changes all of your suspension geometry, and one of the main things it will change is how the car rolls in a corner.
Typically, ass up moves the rear roll point higher, and will make the car be more responsive, and too much up, can cause it to become unstable and want to snap about.
Front up typically will make it want to do the opposite and be "more stable".
However, just having the rear X higher than the front, doesn't guarantee this. Changing the height of the vehicle overall, also affects where the roll centres sit, and how the roll centres move as the suspension cycles. (Remember all that bump steer kind of stuff, yep, it all comes into play).
At the same time, it will shift the centre of gravity in the car, typically mildly forward. But it'll be a pretty darn small movement, that driving on the street, I doubt anyone would notice that change in weight transfer as affecting traction.
Interestingly too when you look at traction for acceleration, vs turning, a 50/50 weight balance (and the more you get to it) is best for turning. However, for drag racing, while you do want weight on the rear wheels for getting off the mark, having the weight as far forward of the rear wheels in terms of bias, is actually better, and you also want it as low as possible too.
Want it to hook better, soften the rear springs up as much as possible, while keeping front roll point low. Go to a larger profile tyre and smaller rim size.
Also check out what the suspension is doing on take off, commodores are atrocious that as they squat, they'll dial in quite a few degrees extra camber. It's why all those lowered commodores have epic camber until they fit a "camber kit" which still doesn't properly help dynamic camber issues.
I'm limited to suspension changes, at the drags all I do is go full soft on the front and full hard on the rear, that let's the front raise, but limits squat in the rear to try and avoid unloading the rear tyre
For the rear I've got adjustable camber bushings, the best I can get it is -0.5° static with zero toe, that is good for tyre wear on the street, more toe would help with any additional camber from when it squats a little, but, that would start chewing out tyres on the hwy
For the drags squat in an IRS is bad, front lifting and staying up is good, I am thinking about getting some 90/10 for the front, well, later down the track anyway, maybe.....
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26 minutes ago, Duncan said:
didn't they make a 4wd commodore for a while?
.....reshell time!
They did, but no, some utes a wagon, and.......a coupe cross 8 with a butt ugly front end that no one really liked, plus they weighed alot more and put down alot less power than their RWD versions
Or there's this, there were heaps of these 4x4 conversions around when I was a kid, mainly Holden and Fords, utes, wagons and panel vans
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Well, the 255/40 17 RS4's have no hope in putting traction down when going past 25% throttle in 1st or 2nd, I've done about 200 km on them so far, so they should be "scrubbed" in by now
Whilst novel for the first 1 or 2 times, it is actually not really helpful when you are trying to take off with some "bravado", I've found myself needing to pedal "alot" more now than with the 275/40 17 R888R's, which was expected really
The voices in my head started saying to "get another........another set of 17 x 9.5 RF1 rims for some R888R 275's for the dry", my reply to them was "are we happy to keep swapping out rims dependent on weather conditions, we already do that if we going to the drags, and also have them packed in the car for extended trips away on the off chance it rains, and then explain to the Minister for war and finances why there's no room for her 3 suitcases when we go away for the weekend, because whilst the R888R's are great in the dry, they try and kill us in the wet", the voices in my head said "fark no....bring on the RaceTCS"
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2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
I have an alignment booked in tomorrow to just correct the toe and camber all round as I've raised the car.
Took your advice too, have added a tiny bit of rake into the car. Used a bit of broscience, took off the scuff plate on the driver side and put a spirit level on it. Slightly lower at the front.
Question: is it slightly lower in the front to move weight forward to reduce understeer??? Or something else???
For the VX they recommend me raising the front slightly higher in the front to move weight rearward for traction, it currently is 5mm higher in the front than STD FE2 height, although I really haven't noticed much of a change
Disclaimer: the fat old VX doesn't go around corners at any real speed, but, in saying that, I haven't noticed any difference with the car wanting to understeer any more, or less, when I do hit a tight corner under some power
Changing rake is interesting, and like most technical/geometry type things to me, black magic
Post up how the changes feel when used in anger
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Good news
Car is booked in at Autotech to get the RaceTCS installed
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16 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Would you be interested in picking up those skills? It's not hard, it's just a practice makes perfect thing and having good quality crimping tools makes an insane difference.
I feel pretty confident that we could talk you through what tools you'll need, how to get this bad boy wired up and tuned.
Honestly, I lack the confidence for this, me splicing into the ABS and injectors has my spidey senses tingling
In the end I'm happy to pay someone with the skills, knowledge and equipment needed to do it
Spiro and Travis from Autotech are looking over the instructions and hopefully they can get it done for me
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New Hankook RS4 all round, it did take 3 months for the fronts to be available though
235/45 17 front, 255/40 17 rear
Whilst the 275/40 17 Toyo R888R were great/exceptional in the dry, and great value for money to boot, they really hated any standing waterJust cruising along and hitting some standing water at 110kph on the Hume would cause the rear tyres to not be team players
So back to the trusty old RS4's
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14 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:
I hope this helps even a little. So on a 20 - 25ish degree day, my oil temp tracks my water temp by like 10 degrees. So water temp 50 degrees, oil temp 40 degrees. They pretty much rise that way together til they both come up to temp. Water never really rises above 75, oil sits around 90ish.
I run a decent sized oil cooler with a thermostat. Dunno when it opens? maybe around 90ish? No idea.
I also have the factory coolant/oil heat exchanger thingo which helps bring up oil temps nicely.
If you're super curious, I can log data on my next drive if you like.
That would be awesome
Whilst I don't understand alot of stuff, I love looking at data
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Step 1. Engage engineer, pay for initial inspection and their guidelines about what you want done then wait for the reply, will cost you a bit
Step 2. Do what the engineer says
Step 3. Get the engineer to inspect and hopefully sign it off, will cost you a bit
Step 4. RMS, you are putting a larger non Nissan engine in, so it will need all the bells and whistles IRT safety and emissions testing, will cost a little
Step 5. RMS papers work and rego stuff, will cost not alot
Step 5. Skids
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On all of my cars and bikes, both built engines and standard, I just start them, put my seat belt on, then drive off like Nanna, I've never had an issue
In saying that, they don't get the loud pedal for at least 15 minutes from a cold start
15 minutes is my rule of thumb because I don't have a oil temp gauge
Disclaimer: I'm just assume that my oil, 10w40, is at least matching my coolant temps after 15 minutes of normal driving
What do people who monitor oil temp find IRT how long it takes for engine oil to get around, say, 90°c from a cold start, and what weight oils????
I remember watching some guys at the drags doing maintenance between runs, one thing they did was a oil change, the oil looked like it had the consistency of water
When I talked to him about it he said the engine was built for low weight oil, it was all about power, clearances, oil pump, as well as the oil needed to be thin as it was started, rolled in for a burn out, then launched for the run, all within about 30 seconds, after the run the oil was dropped again as it considered toast from methanol contamination
Yes, that is at the extreme end of performance for oil weights and alcohol contamination, but I did find it interesting, especially as everyone was using E85 in their built daily/cruisers at the time, and spun bearings were a common occurrence 10???? years ago
I assume all the people running billet blocks and big(ish) power are using E85, how often do people change their oil running E85?
I also assume it isn't every 5k km like me on 98
I assume everyone will drink for every time I said assume
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25 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:
Kind of surprising that they start with fuel cut to a cylinder, I would have figured adjusting timing within a range would be the primary strategy. Maybe that causes excessive EGTs?
From my limited understanding cutting fuel when the ABS detects wheel spin is connected to available traction, so if your on a good surface with good rubber that gives grip you still have all of the powers, as apposed to cutting timing in an area of the map that may not actually need it, dependent on available traction, well, when it comes to my limited understanding of anything to do with tuning and traction control
I am learning new stuff every day, well.....I think I am anyways
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6 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:
I vote use racetcs thing if that helps.
Aftermarket ecu is more than needed here.
The issue is finding someone to install it for me
#menoskillz
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2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:
Yes you can. It removes timing given your car is setup with an Auto box (and presumably it is configured to use it) and came with it from the factory, so all of the wires match up. The car does a torque calculation in the ECU and uses it to determine whether it is going above it.
It will require tuning, so what the computer THINKS is X nm of torque actually lines up with how much torque is blowing the tyres apart. In other words, it is gonna be hard to tune this because you don't actually know what value you want in there, because your engine may think it is producing 342NM, but is actually producing 550nm, and 474 actual nm is when the tyres give way, if you catch my drift.
This will cost more than wiring in the TC system you have and work less effectively. I believe (my car is manual so...) this leverages the stock TC system in the car to change how it pulls timing to regain traction. Assuming that is all still connected and plugged in and working for your OEM car, it could be a feasible solution if you get all the data out of the logger to determine how to set this table (s) right.I just sent Autotech a email to revisit getting the RaceTCS installed
In the end, because of my lack of any wiring skills, and fear of burning the car down, if they cannot, or won't do the job, then I will need to revisit everything again
Wish me luck
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3 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:
Sent what. Nothing? (I don't see the thing to see :D)
LOL, I'm an idiot
This thingie, he said you can modify stuff in HPtuners to lower power in gears/RPM via timing
A little less power in the low to midrange of 1st and maybe 2nd won't be missed as it now just wants to overpower the tyres with anything more than around 50% throttle on street tyres and around 75% throttle on drag radials
If I could lose a little bit of power down low on drag radials to minimise wheelspin on drag radials I believe that would help my 60ft
Also wouldn't that help with mechanical sympathy IRT low piston speed and boost??, although, whilst my boost is only at 7 psi, it pretty much makes it just off idle, hence all of the torques it makes at around 2k RPM
What's your opinion on this table thingie?
Cheers
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I was sent this as the table in HPtuner to look at
From your experience with HPtuner, if a tuner "tickled" this in 1st and 2nd to "lower power" a bit would it help??
Cheers
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Sounds like a good long cruise that would be an interest to me, if I'm free that Saturday there may be a Bogan Cruise Ship tagging along behind for the day
If you see this, sans blower hanging out the bonnet, say hi
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28 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:
It is extremely easy. Your car shuts off injectors every time you come off the throttle. It is not 'less' fuel. It is no fuel. It is Deceleration Fuel Cutoff on demand. Something that your car already has. This is more or less outlined in the RaceTCS and Racelogic documentation to address people misthinking that it will cause lean conditions in operation.
It is a DIY installation.Pulling fuel out and cutting fuel are different. Unless you mean "pulling" as the same as "pulling literally all fuel out" which is what the Racelogic/RaceTCS does. It stops the injector firing completely.
You have a simple, elegant solution sitting on your shelf that works in conjunction with the stock ECU and does not interfere with it. Going full throttle in a torrential storm in 1st gear is available to you.
I would rather have a fuel cut in my cylinder which the car does natively every time you drive it, than an artificial rich/antilag/bad timing situation to the point where the car barely runs to slow it down. I'd rather have no combustion event in there than a really, really 'bad' one.
But who knows. Perhaps the Haltech 2500 has the function to cut fuel to a cylinder as an option, so you can.... buy the exact same thing you have...My wiring skills are worse than my non existent tuning skills, so it needs to hit a shop to do it, no shop I've contacted are really keen for a few reasons
Unless you want to drive down and do it for cash, if not, then I'm locked into what my local shops are keen to do it
From talking to them there are a few options with the Haltech that doesn't involve injectors, timing, or going to an electric TB, all using the ABS
I'm looking at a timing solution talking to the ABS signal as it would negate getting a electronic TB and adapter for the Harrop HTV2300 with is a couple of grand
More research is needed
I'll stop here as it's not on topic, I'll bring it up later in my bogan build thread
Cheers for the input though
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I had a old Blitz BOV on my old boat, it leaked "alot" under boost
It was replaced with a Turbosmart one if I recall correctly and the Blitz one went in the bin
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2 hours ago, PLYNX said:
Hmm . . . . you have a traction control unit sitting on the shelf . . .
I was considering one for my R33 S1 as I've got a GTR rear end in it with the ABS wiring and sensors on it.
Also I have an old school Apexi Power FC Pro and was thinking about seeing if they could work together as the Pro has a launch control function in it
After talking to another tuning joint, Pulse Racing, I'm not going to be using the RaceTCS
I'm now saving for a Haltech 2500
If anyone local wants it, it will cost a bottle of Chivas Regal
PM me if you're interested, pick up from 2173
It also comes with some CAT wire and some connectors that I got to install it
Billet Blocks - Oiling ?
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Awesome, thanks for that