amosite

Can you check the part number on your turbo's? If you have sold them, ask the person you sold them to. I am under the understanding that: R32 V Spec II had N1's R33 V Spec didnt R34 V Spec didnt R34 V Spec II has N1's (401, 402 or 403's) The 34 N1 has upgraded pumps and cams, apart from that the engine is the same as the 34 V spec II...

If you have a V Spec II you have 403 turbo's (N1's) and will be easily able to run more boost/power

Hmm, Put a boost gauge on the car this morning, 16.5 psi with no olive. Put another one on, the same, 16.5 Psi and has been so for over a year Why wouldnt R34 turbo's make 300 rw kw? Have you seen otherwise? They dont have the same thrust set up as a bushed turbo and are more reliable on higher boost. They arent that much smaller then 34 N1's. I understand its like anything, someone who runs 17 psi on a car without knowing that the fuel pump/system/tune they will blow the engine. Heck you could blow your stock engine at 1 Bar if it had an damaged air flow meter. Im talking about people who have taken the steps to ensure that the engine is running properly. As for 1.5 bar, thats just stupidity

Select your poll and if your running more then 1 Bar, list your set up as well as boost and power! Im trying to get an idea of how much the stock turbo's can take from people who can 100% confirm that their turbos are stock ceramic turbo's Most people say 1 bar is it but I have seen cars run more without problems on bonefied ceramic turbo's. I have also seen cars with less then 14 psi damage ceramic's but is more likely due to shagged turbo's. I know the R34 GTR turbo's, while being ceramic BB will take 17 psi and will make near 400 to the rear wheels. A good friend is going to put a tune into the car and said he will run 17 psi as long as its got a good EBC. I double checked with him 3 times and he has assued me he has done it many times. If it shits the stock turbo's- no big deal, I will get my brother to put a GT3040R on it

Yes, you can get them sleeved if bad enough.. A mate of mine badly damaged his block, apparently the culprit was was a split fuel reg vacuum line causing a lean mixture and melted piston and badly scored block. It was bored to about 88mm, then sent away for sonic testing which came back fine. He was quoted about $2400 for Grex 88mm pistons but ended up getting a set of rods and 88.5mm pistons locally for $3K. Cost a little more then off the shelf pistons as they had to be custom made. They got it sonic tested again just to be sure and the engine builder built the rest of the engine for no more then 2 bar. This sounds about right as the more meat you have, the stronger the block. From what I gather, its not really the bore that is the weak part in the RB26 even at 88.5mm. Its the bottom of the block which can twist on big hp engines above 900 hp. This leads to bearing failure. Apparently its the length of the engine?! I think JUN also make an 88mm piston but they are special order only, probably super expensive and 3 months from order.

Grex and tomei as well as a few other companies offer an 88.5mm kit.

Subscribe- I have to check my oil cooler kit first (got it last friday but havent opened it up) More so interested in the thermostat. What size Barbed fittings does it have? Can it be supplied with a 70-75 deg spring? Or can it be adjusted to open a little earlier?

old topic, I know. When you pull an engine down, the condition of the bore can not be determined by hone marks. Its a common misconception! The way manufacturers hone their engines, you will see hone marks at over 200,000klm. Im sure some people with that sort of mileage will strongly agree. The only way to determine the condition of the bore is by measuring it at several different levels as this give you a much better idea of the distortion of the bore. You will often find more wear in the middle of the bore then at the top 1/4 and bottom 1/4. Not only wear but distortion where the bore is oval- this leaks compression as the piston powers through the combustion phase and as it reaches Bottom of the bore. On some of the better engines, you will often find that bores are machined, honed and measured with a dummy head fitted to account for block distortion when the head is torqued up. Its mainly used on more serious engines as the results of a few thou and insignificant on a road engine. Lastly, excessive carbon on the top of the piston is unlikely to cause pre ignition on boost. If your mixtures are consistently running that rich on boost- The amount of fuel that the engine is seeing keeps the combustion temps low enough so that the carbon wont cause pre ignition. Im not saying that it is good to run AFR's this rich, im just saying it is safer. I personally would rather run 11.5 AFR on boost then 12:1 on a track day. Yes, the leaner mixture will make up for some power, maybe 5% difference at this level but at 11.5 the engine will run cooler, combustion will be cooler and there is less chance of melting engine internals when your running full throttle for 10-15 min stints 5-6 times in a day.IMO I would rather drop 5% power but be sure to drive the car home.

Hi Duncan, Did the funds clear yet? Any idea when you can ship it off?

This is still dragging on! Where we are up to: Basically the assessors did not get paid and would not fill out their side of the forms as they have not been paid in months. This was finially sorted end of March and invoices/repair bills sent off. From 6/4/06 to 25/5/06 nothing has happened. On the 9/6/06 I got a reply from Kips stating that they would get back to me the following monday 22/6/06 Today, still no word back from Kips

HKS 3037S with either 0.87 or 0.73 Exh housing This has done 5500klm and is 12 months old There is no shaft or thust play, cracks in any of the housings Choice of either exhaust housing Selling due to too big for application (RB26 twin top mount)

I found some JBL 4x6 which was basically a 4'' and a tweeter but in a 4x6 package so they would go straight in. Murphey's law I went and bought some 6.5'' speakers on the gamble that they would fit only to read 2 days later the FAQ that they pretty much go straight in.

FYI: to remove the filter, you need one of the large bottle top openers. you can get them from hardware stores like bunnings/BBC for about $10. they are usually plastic with an adjustable rubber lash/lead. these are perfect mothers day presents which is why I originally bought one- no more "can you come over and open a jar for me" They are perfect for oil filter removal so I bought one for myself I am an avid believer that tools should not be used for any other purpose then it was originally designed for however working for a rally team makes you improvise- cost vs. benefit of this is excellent! for what it costs, I would use it as a hammer if I needed to! for the gtr, loop it around the filter and pull the lengthening strap tight. it wont sit flat but close enough is ok. Make sure that it is between the plenum and fuel return/feed lines- closer to the strut tower, not the dip stick- push towards the firewall! it should come straight off!

subscribe- have to have a think

Prefer 91W but will consider any other rating. Basically need just 1 to make a matching set but will consider a pair

BronzeMFP You would be best off posting the question in the other sections as I know there are a few people running these. (B1) MR_fanny Email for pic's

Item: ARC bolt on SMIC Location: Sydney Item Condition: Good condition, a few bent fins- nothing major Price and Payment Conditions: $360 Extra Info: Complete bolt on Contact Details: [email protected] (email for pic's)

Auction sheets, pictures, copies of transport condition have been sent to them. The transport condition form has an area where you can add remarks where additional items/info can be mentioned and signed off by an officer when the car is dropped off at the wharf

Here is my experience with Kiwi http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=104288

Here is my brief story: Blitz Electronic Oil/Water temp Gauge (Stolen) Blitz Electronic Oil Pressure Gauge (Stolen) Blitz Electronic Boost pressure Gauge (Stolen) Blitz Control Unit (Stolen) Blitz SBC-R Boost controller (Stolen) Bride Seat (damaged due to window left open while raining) Pioneer CD Player (Stolen) Pioneer Rear Speakers (Stolen) Carpet (water Damaged due to open window) Gear shift surround (Broken to get to the gauges in the dash) Broken 2nd Gear Syncro (turns out this is too hard to prove for insurance) Rear Tyres worn to steel belts (turns out this is too hard to prove for insurance) R33 GTR Wheels Damaged from hitting something harder (turns out this is too hard to prove for insurance) September 2004- The car arrived in Brisbane 6th October 2004- The car cleared customs 27th October 2004- The car was delivered to my door The car turned up pilfered (Stuff stolen and damaged) which was noted on the delivery docket. I contacted Kiwi Car carriers and advised them of the damage and stolen parts the same morning the car was delivered and they pointed me to the website where I could fill in a form for the claim November 2004 to January 2005: I faxed all required Documents, answered their questions promptly (they wouldn't reply straight away, usually 1-2 weeks for a reply). February 2005 to May 2005 (4 Months) Kips Insurance (Crombie.co.nz) advised they will be appointing an Insurance assessor (Burgess Assessment) which finally inspected the car approx 20th of May, 2005. Why does it take 4 months to appoint an assessor? I don't know! I would like to add in this time, (10/2/05 to 24/5/05, 3 months) I was thoroughly interrogated and questioned. If they asked for further information (like invoice, proof of purchase etc) I would reply within 2 days and did not get a reply for 2 weeks where they would simply reply with a 1 sentence question asking for more paperwork or feeding me with an excuse to why the assessor has not called to arrange a time to inspect the car. E.g They would request an invoice, I would email them back straight away. 2 weeks later, they requested the receipt of payment; I would reply straight away. 2 weeks later, they would ask a question about aftermarket parts fitted to the car (not relative to the claim) and I would reply straight away. You get the idea... Finally on the 24th of May, 2005 the assessor inspected the car, 4 months after they "appointed an assessor" and 7 months since I filed the claim. 24th May 2005 to 7th July 2005- We spent more then a month with more time wasting on behalf of Kips/Crombie insurance. Included in this period was refaxing and emailing (both had to be done twice!) of the original claim and all the details as they had "misplaced" the originals. 12 July to 27th September 2005- No emails or calls were replied or answered 28th September 2005- Finally got a reply requesting a GST inclusive invoice/s for the replacement parts. They expect me to pay for it out of my pocket before they reimburse me??? From this date to the 6th of December I was saving for the parts (I was also away on holidays for part of this time) and while some other parts came in from overseas. I produced the Tax invoice as soon as I got it. 6th December 2005- Emailed Invoice; No Reply 14th December 2005- Sent it again; No Reply 26th December 2005- Sent it for the 3rd time, I also included the Managing Director of Kips/Crombie and seaway (kiwi cars); No reply 12th January 2006- Sent the invoice again, I also included the Managing Director of Kips/Crombie, Crombie general info email and seaway (kiwi cars) both Sydney and Brisbane and suggested if I don't get a reply legal action would proceed. (I was away from the 26th to the 12th for the holidays) ; No reply 2nd February, 2006 (Today) I have faxed copied to Kips [email protected], Geoff Manks (crombie Manager) [email protected], Seaway (Kiwi Cars) Brisbane and Sydney [email protected] and [email protected] So far, I have owned the car for over 18 months and the car has been in the country for nearly 17 months and I have had nothing but problems with Kiwi and Kips/Crombie insurance. The car is only just about to get registered and still needs sorting out due to the damage incurred while in their hands. I paid top dollar to get the car here (approx $2,000 just in shipping where a 20 ft container only costs a few hundred more) and didnt get the service I was expecting. I believe that my claim, and others like it have led Kiwi/Kips/Crombie to re-write their policy and details on the Kiwi website. I believe they are now covered by another insurance company (or Kips/Crombie are now underwritten by QBE) due to the complications. For more info: http://www.kiwicar.com/kips.htm I have had cars delivered by Kiwi in the past, admittedly I had the gauges removed for security but the car still came with scratches and dents (I get a copy of the transport condition report faxed to me) and the front bar cracked. One car I imported for a friend came in with an intercooler ripped half apart from getting caught on something- probably a ramp or similar. The only car that came in without damage or theft was a dead stock GT4 Celica. This means (in my experience anyway) that Kiwi have a 75% damage rate. This is far from satisfactory and was enough for me to reconsider who I use for shipping, which has led me to another company which is significantly cheaper, much more secure (each person who touches the car is logged) and is generally more reliable. I am not the only ones with problems, for example, the place I use for compliance has since switched shipping companies as well due to the numerous and frequent problems with Kiwi, Kips/Crombie.co.nz and stolen damaged cars. It is entirely up to you on who you use to import your new Pride and Joy and I am in no way slandering the company, associated companies and their business ethic's. The record above is as accurate as I can possibly make it with details obtained from my email sent items folder, and the on going task (MS Outlook users know what this is) that I have detailed with dates of all correspondance for easy reference. Please, dont post unless you can contribute to this topic- replies like "sorry man, that sucks" etc wont really help. If you have similar experiences, please post them up for other users to benifit. Im sure there are a lot of you who have had good experience (I had one car come through perfect!) but that is not the issue.

Item: R33 GTR (will also fit R34 GTR and R34 GTT) Bilstein BSP coil overs. Location: Sydney, can ship interstate Item Condition: As new with only 3,000 klm Reason for Selling: Removed as car has been sold Price and Payment Conditions: $2800, replacement cost is over $4200 Extra Info: 20 Shock adjustments front and rear, inverted pistons at rear, helper springs etc. Uses stock mounts for more compliance (was in daily driven car) Contact Details: [email protected] R34_BPS_2.bmp R34_BPS.bmp

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Pic's (finially) More available on request

I thought I uploaded them already! I will upload some shortly (or email me if needed) They wont fit directly to a stock manifold, but I have an adaptor that will fit with provision for an external wastegate for (I had this put aside for a rainy day) which I can do for $250

Item: Brand new Apexi GT Spec IC kit Location: Sydney, but can ship Item Condition: New! Reason for Selling: Brother has since sold the car Price and Payment Conditions: $1399, These sell for over $2550 in the shops. Extra Info: It may fit an R32 or R33 GTS with minor mods as pipe work and chassis brackets look to be in a similar location. It is a complete kit new in the box with all hoses, pipes (blue) clamps, brackets, instructions etc. It does not require cutting into the chassis for installation. Contact Details: [email protected] Pic's to be uploaded shortly but email me if I forget