amosite

Sorry, not an RB24, its not even a nissan engine! Its a 3sGTE Engine

HKS 3040

Due to unfortunate circumstances I am forced to sell these turbo's. They were going to go on a stroked 2.0 to 2.4 but I have decided to get all the fruit so the engine is done and wont ever need a spec change for more power. Basically its a $10,000 Engine, that does not include accessories. I.e. Engine only! So, I have decided to sell these, which I had put aside for the engine (I wasnt sure which one would suit it better and was going to try both) I will now have to use the exsisting turbo on it (K26 KKK Sard kit) for the run in and base tune. At the end of the year or early next year I will then start making some turbo changes and revisions as needed. I need to sell these shortly (so no layby's) as the short engine is built and I need to order the rest of the head stuff (larger valves, Springs, Ti retainers, exhaust cam) Item: HKS GT3037S 0.87 AR Exhaust (480ps @ 1 Bar) Location: Sydney Item Condition: Superb bar a couple of small, insignificant knicks on the compressor from not running a filter. (see pic's) Used for 9,000 Klm, been in storage for 6 months. There is no shaft play, thrust movement, oil leaks or cracks Reason for Selling: As above Price and Payment Conditions: $2400. Can ship nation wide for $38 via courier with tracking and insurance. Contact me for a definitive quote Extra Info: Has EGT Sensor hole drilled and 90 deg trust alloy bend welded to the compressor outlet Contact Details: [email protected] Item: HKS GT3040 1.12 AR Exhaust (500ps @ 1 Bar) Location: Sydney Item Condition: Immaculate! This has done 5,000 klm on 12 psi on a 1J engine. There is no shaft play, thrust movement, oil leaks or cracks Reason for Selling: Price and Payment Conditions: $2600 Contact Details: As above Serious parties email me for more pic's Can supply braided oil line, oil drain, turbo inlet and outlet gaskets for an additional $200 (will suit both turbo's)

Quote From manufacturers ad I have spoken to a manufacturer who will be releasing their RB26 Manifolds shortly and with RRP set at $1299 is it definitely a viable and cheaper option compared to HKS headers. General description: Complete stainless steel (3mm thick!), mandrel bent and equal length headers/turbo extractors. Minimum gain we have seen is 12% (At the wheels) on a dead stock R32 GTR. These are a complete bolt on for all RB26 Engines and also have fittings for the factory heat shield. Firstly these headers are brand new and construction is from mandrel bent stainless steel. Other popular brands have mild steel flanges that have been "chromed" (or Painted) giving it the stainless look but not the associated benefits. The difference in flanges is the stainless steel will aid in gasket life and reliability with pipes and flanges expanding at the same rate. I know I personally don't want to be changing gaskets in 6 to 12months time, this is an evident property of mild steel flanges mixed with SS pipes as they expand and contract at different rates, which eventually causes them to warp! Ours are constructed of the same grade Stainless steel so they won't do this- ever! Mandrel bent pipe work in 3mm stainless and direct bolt on for all RB26 engines. We have also included a provision for the factory heat shield to keep under bonnet temp down. In addition, these can also be heat wrapped or HPC coated for further improvements Included are: -Headers (For 1 engine) -Manifold to head gaskets -Turbo Gasket Bends and welds are kept to a minimum to improve exhaust velocity and pipe length is made as even as possible (equal length). With these fitted you will see a power increase from around 1800 RPM all the way to 8000 RPM (not all Rb26's rev to 8,000) providing a broad power range. This makes every day driving a lot more enjoyable especially for those of you who are running aftermarket turbo's. The car is really that much better to drive! With a stock turbo, the power/torque drop off above 6500 isn't as bad and boost comes on a little earlier providing stronger mid range torque that hits like a bomb. The top end power increase is due to 2 reasons. Firstly; boost doesn't drop off like the factory manifold does. Secondly; the efficiency and flow is improved at high rpm driving- this was optimized for people using turbo upgrades such as garrett and HKS turbo's. In Addition the collector flange has been closer match ported. If you have a look at the factory manifolds you will notice a fairly large step where the manifold mates to the turbo's. We have changed this to a smooth entry. Perfect for street/track cars. In addition to this they also have a sound change which is inevitable with the velocity increase in the exhaust. The exhaust does sound tougher (higher pitched roar) with these fitted. Expect around 27 hp (at the wheels) on a stock RB26. Bigger gains have been seen with more modifications/better quality parts fitted but due to so many variables, the gains have been from 37 rwhp (about 20%) to a whopping 69 rw hp on a severely restricted car (This car had all the bolt on goodies and ended up making just over 500 hp (at all 4 wheels). This makes for a cost effective power increase! This doesn't just add top end power but increases overall power and power under the graph making your car overall quicker in a variety of situations including out of corners, partial throttle, up steep hills etc. Its easy to make something that improves power, but improving power over the entire useable RPM range and partial throttle is not so easy. Not only this, we have seen full boost reached 400 rpm earlier on a stock car and nearly 950 RPM on a more modified car. This makes a massive difference to the fun factor especially on the street and accelerating out of the corners. Unfortunately the dyno graph doesn't show partial throttle improvements in response, drivability and off boost torque. This will fit your stock turbo or other bolt on's such as nismo's, HKS, PE, Apexi, Greddy turbo's. There is no pick up available and all items are shipped via courier with online tracking, insurance and is next day delivery to east coast metro cities ($30) All other cities POA They are not available for any other skyline! RRP is $1299, I have worked out a deal for 10 sets at $750 These are available to ship immediatly and will be available until all 10 sets are sold out! High res pic's available: Email [email protected]

18 x 8. 5J (114.3/OFF + 38) x3 18 x 9. 5J (114.3/OFF + 38) x2 RE01 Tyres (Better traction then ST115's) Front: RE01 2-3mm 235/40 18 Rear: RE01 2-3mm 265/35 18 (basically need replacements fitted) Spare: G ' GRID 5mm 225/40 18 (used once for a week when I had a puncture) Sorry about the bad pic's with brake dust still on them- it takes the shine away from them. 1 wheel has a very small mark from Parking (see pics) 1 wheel needs a rebalance and possibly repair (not sure if the bearings are shot) This wheel should be used as the spare only unless it is professionally checked out. This is a EOI as I am not sure if I want to sell them and go back to 17's (due to tyre cost) or just put new tyres on. Not looking for anything under $2500 (so dont ask)

This is really made to suit the veilside exhaust (with 3 bolt flange) but the flange can be cut off for a conventional flange. $400 Will load pic's shortly (PC crashed)

Due to the interest I have had and wanting to get as much back as possible- I will list them on ebay. I will post the link as soon as I have done it

Excellent condition! Diff center only $850

Shock and height adjustment Inverted type at the rear (large piston) $On ebay shortly

$150 No damage or problems- removed from working car

Complete bolt on sports upgrade Good condition (needs clean) and does not leak. Minimal bent fins $350

Sold

I will say it again THE shifter in THE pic YOU POSTED is NOT a C's SHIFTER Why dont you put up a pic of a C's shifter instead..

The shifter in the pic is not an original C's shifter

I dont have your details listed anyway ;-)

bump, price drop edit above

IMO For the extra $25, adjustment is no bank breaker but more importantly it allows easy tuning of the suspension from Over steer- neutral-understeer. If your at the track its not like you can play with heights or spring rates and only a certain amount of "tuning" can be done with simple tyre presure changes Adjustable bars allow a quick change by repositioning the locating bolts. Takes 5 mins if that! With a Fixed (or GTR) Bar you dont get any flexibility- Just a cheap upgrade

Its about 18 months old (not daily driven)

Adjustable suspension components means you can "tune it" to suit your driving style..

Yes, its common to find 32mm in the ARC range. Being made of chrome molly there is virtually no give in them so its best to run them in the softest setting depending on appication- but generally speaking if your in Oz. Whiteline bars are made of Spring steel which works well being a suspension component. Correct! The only time you can run too much castor is on a double whishbone set up and even then it is still pretty high figures. Castor increases dynamic camber- meaning less static camber is needed. Wen upgrading bars, is is a good idea to keep it "balanced". I.e If you run the front, run a rear bar too. Rear bar only will induce oversteer, front bar only will induce a slight amount of under. Hence the reason why its best to get front and rear that are adjustable, then you can tune the settings to suit your driving style or application. The only time I would run "just a rear bar" is on a WRX where they have silly amounts of understeer from factory, having a 24mm Rear bar (stock is 19) and setting it on the hardest setting will reduce a lot of it! In the case of running a "rear bar only with Mechanical LSD" on a ceffie- well this would be a good drift set up! Thats about it Good question! In addition, you may as well list Suspension mods, drive train (like LSD), chassis braces and wheel alignment figures.

Yes, if you only give half the story, you only get half the answer. A rear bar without front will induce oversteer. If you have 1.5deg camber on the front, its time to play with castor.

Yes, when the bars were changed to stock the car was no where near as good! The only other bar I would consider is the ARC adjustable. They are a very nice piece with Spherical bearings, hollow chrome molly construction and are one of the best engineered bars available. However this comes and a substancial cost at around $500 each bar! (depending on model) The non adjustable bars are a lot cheaper! They are still very good, but for the small extra, the adjustable ones are defitily worth it!

I would get them checked out by a bike shop, they are always rebuilding shocks! As for spring rates, it depends what you do with the car... If you drive like you own a commodoor, want comfort of a commodoor, basically you should buy a commodoor ;-) I am able to constanly keep up with R1's, Hyabusa's, CBR's on the old rd. As soon as they hit main straights they pull away. On the track it would be totally different! But the point of this story is that it is a lot harder (and more costly) to get that sort of performance out of a spring and shock set up.

Swaybars do effect "ride quality" to a certain point. Here is the "But" (and its a big but) On a corner that is "chopped up" you will notice a slightly increased amount of ride comfort changes. This is really THE only time and combined with a stiffer spring rate at the wheel and the urethane bushes adds a only a small amount of change to comfort. However the car will (in 90% of cases) allow you to corner faster on that particular corner. Obviously on a smooth corner- you will not notice it. Very similar to a smooth road with very stiff springs- you wont notice it. Best of luck finding one in Oz. The debate about "not needing swaybars with coilovers" is very heated. I have been lucky enough to drive a car with coil overs with bars on and bars off (stock bars fitted) on and off the track (ARC swaybars) Basically, it was slower over the whole entire track. I didn't time it as the entry, mid corner and exit speeds were all slower. Slow entry, slower mid corner which lead to slower exit speeds. There was also a big difference in driver confidence. No matter how smooth or aggressive you entered the corner, mid corner speed was at least 10-20% less. The faster the corner the bigger the difference. Another note worth mentioning is that some corners would "lock" the front inner wheel under brakes. This is due to being better balanced under hard braking. This was done on RE01 (JDM) Tyres, which are considered a good road tyre and comparable to ST115's etc. In the case of a semi slick or full slick, suspension loads would be even higher and the deficit even bigger! The only time I would personally consider stock swaybars with coilovers is on a rally car. Stiffer bars restrict independent wheel travel and in rally (in Oz anyway) this can be very bad. If you need hooking up on Adj bars from whiteline, I should be able to do most cars for around the $200 mark ea. just Pm me with details of the car.

Sounds like preload and ramp angle change would be a good idea. Careful but, not many shops will be able to do it correctly