JMW

^^ Could be Kier Willsons new toy?

I know Synergy Motorsport in SA had a set of black ones in store (the ones i pulled apart,cleaned) but then found out that 'NO' the do not fit on a sedan, bit of a shame that!

Thanks for the help guys Was nearly going to buy a good second hand gt-rs but wasn't sure if it would be overkill. The hi-flow question mainly because i have a cactus std neo turbo in need of a rebuild. Thanks again for the help, much appreciated

Have you tried using a smaller socket and bashing it over the nut with a hammer? Might just be enough to loosen them.

Just in the process of weighing up my options as to get a spare factory turbo hi flowed or just go for a good second hand GT-RS. Its going in a R33 sedan, and would like to get about 250-300kwatw. Any other options i could look into would also be great, and rough prices on hiflowing

Good to know its still about, followed the build-up pretty closely in the magazines. Sleeper alright! Was told by Peter it would easily torch the rears if you slammed the accelerator drive

and best place to run the hose to the control module i found was through the grommet in the passenger side of the fire wall, just be careful not to stab any other wiring. Good luck and happy boosting!

Going by your pic's Block the hose off going back to your pod Tee the fpr line and run it to the 'NO' port on the solenoid Run the line from the 'CON' port to the wastegate actuator diaphragm Use the factory boost guage pick-up point on the back of the manifold, place filter inline and run hose to control module in cabin Hope this clears it up a little

I have these rims for sale. Would really suit a VIP based car or someone just after something a little different. Sizes are: 18x8j +35 18x9j +35 with 265/35/18 tyres average condition. Was running these on my R33 sedan, but have changed them for Impul NS-GT's If interested let me know

I tee'd mine into the fuel pressure regulator hose. So yes the "NO" port has to be plumbed to where it will read the pressure from, preferably intake manifold.

My ABS light on my dash keeps coming on! If i stop and restart the car it goes off, but as soon as i hit the brakes hard but not to the point of lock up it comes on again! Have checked the abs on an indutrial area (no traffic), will work first time but the the light comes on and no more ABS Any ideas would be a great help

Does anyone know the where abouts of Martin Donnon and Peter Halls Series I sedan that was converted to an RB26 Auto a few years back? Was ment to be one awesome sleeper

Skyline Model = R33 GTS-t Series II Wheel diameter = 18 Wheel width = 8.5 Wheel offset = +35 Tyre size = 235/40/18 Modifications to fit = Rolled front, lipped rear (due to previous wheel fitments)

I remember reading an article about centrifical force and wheel size. Correct me if im wrong anyone! But going to that size on the front would be overkill unless on a GTR, your tyre wear might get worse, your steering will be a little more heavy but you may find it will be more direct. Still surprised that they fit on a R33 GTS-t! Let me know how you go with them though

Mines in the same place, at least there you cant bash you knee on it and it's sort of out off sight too

Going 3" straight through you will be pushing it for legal db's! Your best shot would be to talk to a good exhaust shop (some have a db meter handy), but i would recomend fitting a resinator of some sort

It involves a little fabrication work on the pipes, but basically you can move them where ever aslong as the direction of air flow stays the same. With the twin AFM's of a GTR it makes it a little harder to position them, but even just moving them away from the compressor housing a litlle reduces the strength of the pulsing air. On RB25's i've seen them mounted just after the intercooler in the RH side under the front guard, just running extended wiring. Or even on an off chance it could be your AAC valve playing up or even a coil pack on its way out too!

Hey guys I seem to be having dramas with my ABS! If i hit the brakes hard the right front locks up and the ABS light comes on and stays on until i turn the car off and restart it. The car is a 96 series 2 4 door running 18x8.5 Impul NS-GT's and JIC coilovers, pads and rotors are good, could it be the speed sensor on the front or rear hubs playing up?

Sounds like air reversion from the compressor housing. As you back off the pressure pulses back and forth from the compressor housing past the AFM and confuses the hell out of it mainly when running higher boost. Have heard a good solution to this is to move the AFM to the pressure side of the turbo (boost does not bother AFM's as they only measure air flow). I know Ken Nomura does this on nearly all his URAS drift cars and also remember Adam Trewella doing it on his Ceffy a few years back. Hope this might help a little to solve whats called "FC Disease"

Have a brose around Clark Rubber or a similar store. The Sikaflex will do the job great, can fix nearly anything with Sikaflex

Thats one sweet 4 Door

Pretty sure it was both the loop on the spring and the wire. Was really fiddly to do. The wire is in place more to stop the spring from over streatching, or if the spring fails.

Thanks fellas! Just picked up an aacv from Japanese Import spares as was surprised at the amount of crap that does collect in them. Gave it a good clean inside and out and will fit it tonight. Also going to give the fuel pump hard wiring a go over the next few days too. If thats doesn't fix the problem then i'll give the diagnostic a go. Such a wealth of knowledge, thanks again

Looking for a boot lip spoiler similar to the drag wings for the coupes. Have seen a finnal konnexion one but $580 seems a little pricey! Anyone have any ideas?

Pulled a set apart myself a while ago. There should be 1/8 dowel pins that hold the springs in place on the base. Pull the springs through the holes in the base plate and slide the pins into the loops at the end.