Mr.Massive

Still got most of the stuff. Feel free to send me a pm If anyone is interested.

Looking for a R33 S2 drivers side window regulator and corner piece. Cheers, Stefan.

+3, Installer = Genius!

Need all this stuff gone ASAP- Price Drops!! R33 GTS4 Rb25DE 1997 AWD close to bare engine. Stopped at 72,567 K. Comes without sump. In perfect condition, never had a problem with it just undergone an engine conversion. $400 R33 Coil loom -$ 30 Full R33 N/A Exhaust with twin tip Supercat muffler. Also willing to separate just give me an offer. R33 Gutted Cat $30 R33 NA Fuel Pump $30 S1 Stagea Oil Pressure sensor- clip is a bit mangled but still plugs in and holds –$5 Front diff cover $20 Awd Sump trays- $20 Stock Cold Pipe with nipple $25 R33 Na intake - $20 R33 G6 ECU - $40 R33 CC ECU With Brackets - $80 Pm me for pictures.

Need all this stuff gone ASAP- Price Drops!! R33 GTS4 Rb25DE 1997 AWD close to bare engine. Stopped at 72,567 K. Comes without sump. In perfect condition, never had a problem with it just undergone an engine conversion. $400 R33 Coil loom -$ 30 Full R33 N/A Exhaust with twin tip Supercat muffler. Also willing to separate just give me an offer. R33 Gutted Cat $30 R33 NA Fuel Pump $30 S1 Stagea Oil Pressure sensor- clip is a bit mangled but still plugs in and holds $5 Front diff cover $20 Awd Sump trays- $20 Stock Cold Pipe with nipple $25 R33 Na intake - $20 R33 G6 ECU - $40 R33 CC ECU With Brackets - $80 Pm me for pictures.

Spray a shitload of degreaser and try. If that doesn't work you might have to invest into a gear puller. You can get cheap ones

Engine Price Drop $550

On the rare occasion i have herd you can ring up regancy and explain your situation and they may allow you to go to a cop shop. You can give that a try tomorrow.

Nah the battery needs to be a special make. Like the one that first came with the car. Needs to have a tube running from the battery through to the outside of the vehicle

I went through not to long ago and found them to be pretty chilled. Your car seems pretty clean man you should be fine however just see how your car compares to these rules about suspension and lowering: http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/person...rack_suspen.pdf Also since your battery is in the boot it has to be sealed and ventilated. You might be able to get away with the RPM gauge but really not 100% Best to post these questions in the defect thread likely to get better answers. Best to have an early appointment, if they find something illegal they can issue you four hours to comply the car and you can bring it back that day without paying again.

Engine price drop $550.

First thing I would check is the sump may have been something that may have cracked it. Does the noise sound like a loud tapping from the engine?

Haha, yea if you have 150,000 pounds then Probably best to check out the turbo upgrade thread. But for 250kw i'd say just hiflow your stock turbo. Less work required in my opinion.

I recently completed a Stagea conversion on my 33 gts4. I found this was the least expensive way to do it. If you were to go for a 26 your would have to change a lot of gear that you wouldn't have to if you just go the 25. You do not have to change the loom and even your current radiator is up to the job of keeping everything cool. If you do end up deciding to do it I found swapping over the front diff was the hardest thing to do as I decided to stick with the longer GTS4 gear ratio. I picked up a bare motor for about $1600 or so, and from there you can do all the mods you like. I would imagine if you choose to get all stock parts the project would come to approximately $2500. If your thinking of doing the 25 conversion and have any questions im open for a pm.

Buy a stock turbo exhaust from cat back. Try that out? And if its still not noisy enough take the guts out of your cat.

Just a thought that might help. You said your seal has somehow moved within the tank. Is there anyway something (sealant for instance) maybe clogging your fuel filter? Just something to check if the obvious such as sparkplugs and coil packs do not fix the problem.

Much appreciated Mitch. I have 48 hours to drive it so I might be able to swing past your’s sometime. I've booked the car in for Tuesday, I just hope I can get everything sorted out before the 18th as my rego is running out, and I really don't want to tow it there.

Just got sent to regency I have a R33 GTS4 with an rb25det in it from a Stagea (being originally non turbo). Have not changed the brakes so I’m guessing I will need to, which is no fuss as I was planning to do it soon. The real issue is my front mount. I have a hole in the driver’s side engine bay for the cooler piping, and my front bar/Reo has been cut to fit in the cooler. When fitting in the engine there were imprints of holes already there I just drilled them out, apart from one which we had to drill out (below the fuse box). How big of a problem is this? I have a few breather mods as well such as metal intake, bigger hot pipe, etc. I also have a bleed valve and no boost solenoid. Basically what I’m asking is how far is my leg in the shit?

S1 Loom sold

Need this stuff gone, feel free to PM me some offers.

Four trips back to the tuner later and found the problem to be a earthing issue

I had the same problem when I finished my conversion. It cut out exactly like in your posted videos. I changed the spark plugs, coils, afm and couldn't find anything wrong. So I lowered the boost and took it to a tuner. Got a nistune and havn't had any problems.

Awsome. Thanks.

Yes. pm

Yea one of the reasons you are suppost to use coolent is because it has a higher boiling point than water. The water will evaporate through the overflow bottle after long drives. I use rust repellant coolant, however if you have a corroded cooling system just buy the radiator flush and do it yourself shouldn't take long.