Mr.Massive

Yea from catback. Apparantly have the same mufflers aswell just turbos have a bigger pipe.

Bolt onto the same holes for your stock heatshield. Not onto the turbo itself. Just cover a larger diameter where the turbo sits.

Turn your boost down to 6-8 psi see how that goes. If you still have an untuned stock ecu it is most likly the problem

I also need to get one made up/modified. I don't think it’s a good idea not to have one. I’m a bit wary of the abs wires and air conditioner pipe just below the turbo.

I did this for a while until it blew a hole and I continually had to tape it up with eletrical tape due to a massive boost leak. Not a good idea- but for the short run should be ok.

Its very simple and you can figure it out yourself. All you have connecting the turbo is: oil and water lines (4 in total), dump pipe, intake, elbow and actuator hose. When you take off the turbo analyse the gasket yourself. Just make as much room for yourself as possible.

Seems as though my alternator came loose. However I was driving it after and took it for a good boot. After when I opened my bonnet my overflow bottle was almost full and there seemed to still be bubbles in it. So bleed the system for two hours and it still did not get rid of all the air. I've just baught a radiator off ebay and I am going to get the engine proffesionally flushed, hopefully this solves it

Just buy a metal or silicone intake pipe. I bought a metal intake off ebay for $130 i think, or you can get a silicone one, which i believe ministry of bass has for $105.

I have upgraded the fuel pump to a walbro. I have had this tested by a local mechanic and take his word that it is fine. I took the car for a drive before and seemed to be running fine with a low temperature reading however there is squeeking coming from the motor. I have ran out of light so tomorrow I will check out the belt (one spinning the fan) perhaps it is not operating the waterpump properly due to slipping.

Hey guys, A month after I have finished my R33 gts4 stagea s1 conversion and I have run into some trouble L. My car seems to shut off when it is warm. I checked my coolant and was surprised to see an ugly brown/corroded liquid in my radiator as I changed the coolant a month ago, I quickly checked the oil and was grateful to see just oil and no milky colours J (cracked head). So I decided to flush the system. I removed the radiator and ran a hose through that. Then I took off one of the heater hoses (firewall) and ran a garden hose through it and that seemed to get rid of the brown colour. I noticed however that the bottom hose of the radiator was leaking a bit of water when I was flushing it. At this stage I was concerned about my thermostat as it should be closed when the car is off/not warm correct? I still decided to continue as I did not know if I was correct or not. So I connected everything back up, put a bit of coolant through the block, connected the radiator and filled that up as well. The car ran fine until the temperature gage started to slowly clime. The car started idling weirdly with revs dropping up and down; I quickly thought of air bubbles and opened the bolt. This was unsuccessful and the car shut off. There seems to be little pressure in the bottom radiator hose but not much and I am leaning towards the thermostat not the water pump. I am still running a Non turbo radiator however all mechanics/wreckers believe it is fine for know but I am still planning to get a aluminum radiator. If I was to remove the bottom metal pipe from the block were the thermostat is will it destroy the gasket? Anyone got any ideas??? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thankyou.

Thanks mad082.

But wouldn't the AFM think it would have to pump more air in as it is unsure about the quantity which is still circulating???

Hey guys, I have always wondered about the BOV return on skylines being after the AFM. My Question: How does the ecu register the return if the AFM is before the return? Does it do some sick ass calculations or what? This question has just been annoying me can someone please answer it Cheers.

I'm just about to finish my stagea conversion in my gts4 r33. I would not get a gtst rwd motor and dump it in there as you will need to get a rwd gearbox which costs more money. George is correct in saying it is basically a drop in motor, however your only real problem is changing the diff. My plan was to do this conversion all along for a mini zilla. So if you think you are committed enough to do the conversion yourself it can be very simple. Im not sure about r32s however lot of the r33 parts from the na are compatible

Awesome

Even if it is, can't it be used for future reference, so answers do not have to be repeated again and again? Anyway that method worked for me and seemed safe to my eyes.

I am currently almost finished installing a stagea s1 engine into my 33 gts4. This is one of the easiest conversions as everything is compatible alternator, starter, aircon etc........ Just pick up a bare engine, get all aftermarket exhausts and turbo and dump it in there. You don't need to change over your gearbox as it is strong enough and you don't need to find a manual stagea as all you need is a spigot bush which is very simple to install. The only major hassle is the front diff. I've decided to keep my gts4 ratio as gears are longer than stageas, if your not using your gts4 for the track I advise you to do this but its up to you. Rwd is a lot of fun but AWD is my style of drive. You can hammer it around a corner and swing your ass out with more power on the surface than a rwd car allowing you to come out of the corner a lot quicker. Even if you want a bit of rwd fun just drop the front shaft its simple. If you want a rb26 your better off selling and buying a gtr as parts prices are high. P.S if you are going to do this bigger fuel pump is needed!

I just picked it up like the wrecker gave it to me. Had a long screw on intake side (exhaust/turbo side) with a bracket chained to the two holes on the left side of the intake.

Haha - well corrected luciano

Its most likely the filter. To have a better look, I would remove the fuel inlet on the rb and aim it into a bucket - switch the key onto on and you should hear it prime (listen for a high pitch sound) and immediately fuel should come out consistently for a short period. If it doesn't seem to be consistent change the filter - go to Nissan and get a new one. You herd back from the tuners? Goodluck

Thanks guys, will be purchusing one shortly

The reason because they are different is because stagea s1 only have a oil light.

Yea its pritty simple I did mine a month ago. Do not use the filter it comes with as it is to short and dont get the inlet and return hoses mixed up like i did. hehe. Try it yourself you can't really do major damage its just a fuel pump. live and learn

Thanks guys will check it out tomorrow

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