tridentt150v

GT3040's work better on a 25, they work best on a 30. Would not be my choice for a 20. Even a GT3076 is a bit too big, GT3071 would be best. Slide sells 3040's for under the $1700 mark, so depending on age and use etc you should be looking at around the $1k mark.

If you could put the soon to be released garrett 52 trim compressor on the .73 rear housing...........interesting.

If there is enough stud sticking out, you can weld a nut onto it and then undo it ....another option.

It would be a very good housing for a 25. I always reckoned that the .63 from garrett is too small, the .68 from hks is a little bit to small, the .82 from garrett is a little bit too big, and the hks .87 is too big for a road based skyline. I won’t even mention the 1.06 from garrett, its really for specialist applications. The 0.73 housing that AVO is making falls into that sweet spot and I think it would be well suited to the RB25 motor, HKS 3037s COMPRESSOR: -Wheel- 56 Trim - 57.0 Inducer / 76.2 Major -Housing- 100 Inlet / 50 Outlet - 0.60 A/R TURBINE: -Wheel- 84 Trim - 60.0 Major / 55.0 Exducer -Housing- T3 inlet / External GT-Pro outlet; 0.68, 0.87 A/R GT3076R COMPRESSOR: -Wheel- 56 Trim - 57.0 Inducer / 76.2 Major -Housing- 0.60 A/R TURBINE: -Wheel- 84 Trim - 60.0 Major / 55.0 Exducer -Housing- T3 inlet / External outlet; 0.63, 0.82, 1.06 A/R.

Talking turbine not compressor

Get it fixed.......spark erosion will remove it......use the yellow pages.

Anyone have a $$$$ figure?

Old chestnut as they say but..........fuel pump failing? Det is from running too lean, timing to far advanced or carbon hotspots on the pistons [igniting fuel before your sparkplug does].

goes to show, you shouldn't rub a cat up the wrong way!!!

If you have to get a gasket [and that won't be from your local corner mechanic] then you may as well get the studs as well, try somebody like Just Jap or Kamikaze etc, from memory studs and gasket around $100 or a bit less.

depends on your mods/turbo setup?

Read the FAQ, its not a case of upgrading the line [yes the mod is an upgrade, but the stock line remains the same]. What you are doing is supplying a direct voltage feed to the pump via a relay. You are using the stock wire as an on/off signal carrier.

Looks like a door chock!!!! Who designs this cr@p, the french?

All the above, plus Whopping a big turbo on is not going to help you much, you have no supporting mods to use it to its full efficiency.

Isn't there a city to lake fun run??? Thats street racing isn't it??? Dear John..........we don't give a jack sh1t.......so sorry. Actually you can race your 10 speed pushy in the Belco Mall, cos thats about all you'd own [until the cops check the serial numbers].

Steering wheel and carpet prices and condition pls.

Alcohol free..................uummm I'll have to see if I can make it!!!! Maybe thats why its so expensive Leech?

See the FAQ/DIY section, there is a thread there showing you how. Up till 200rwkw I'd say with a new walbro you'd be OK without it. but after this you should think about doing the mod.

Looks good, I want some offcuts?

If you weld cast then the weld will be brittle and likely crack at or near the weld line. Also if your welding cast and its a big job [and what you intend doing is a big job in the context of things] then you will need a barrel of slake lime. The weld should be allowed to slowly cool in it, it won't stop but will help with embrittlement.

Goes OK for a work van!

PM sent

See Nabil's thread on forced Induction http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=145752&hl=. Also see Slide's prices on the trader section on SAU, good prices and http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=131709

For suzuki's????Why...do you want to get your Hayabusa working harder??

Yeah, c'mon even I know wot oil is.................you cook chips and chicken in it!!!!!!!!