ae86 boy

bit more info: http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=66472.0 gtsboy your power sterring is obiously working correctly. see so many 32 owners myself included winge about heavy power steering and this is the reason. trust me when the solenoid is active the steering is that hard to the point of believeing you have no power steering at all. your right though... ghetto as mod

old topic but incase anyone else is after the solition in the future. the problem is the solenoid on the front steering rack. this is controlled by the hicas computer to make the steering really easy at low speed and a bit harder at hi speed 80km+ (when you wouldnt notice the harder steering) When people muck around with the hicas + the 32s getting old these days the hicas computer (located under the rear pacel shelf btw) tells the solenoid to make the steering harder by bypassing power steering flud in the rack sometimes when the car is below 80km which gives it a heavy feel, but not as heavy as no power steering, which is why people often get confused what the hell is going on. the solution! take the solenoid off the front steering rack (3 bolts maybe?), trace the shape out on bit of metal plate, cut out the same shape and simply bolt on a metal plate in its place. Light power steering all the time!

this is where i pulled the picture from. might help describe what im on about a bit better. from what i can tell taking it off wont adversely effect the steering, your right though havnt adjusted the toe yet so ill do that and take it for a test run to make sure it doesnt bind.

on a r32. it had made a difference but yer weirdly there coming no where near the lock stops, i feel the extra turn in my wheel and visualy the wheels turned more but the lock stops at this point dont need any cutting down. not sure if u read my post correctly. at this point in putting in the spacers but am just wondering about taking out the washers that come on the car from factory. ive done a test with the spacers on and the washer thing off and theres no binding so i guess ill lock tight it all up it is strage that im coming no where near the lock stops thought

righto guys so i was doing the steering rack spacer mod when i took the rack apart and saw this. its a washer with rubber on one side to help cushion the steering rack lock nut against the steering rack when on full lock (see pic) after a bit of investigation it looks to be ok (just floating on the shaft there). my question is could i remove this (as well as adding the spacer) to get more lock without compromising the amount of thread to be screwed into the steering rack . it seems the s13's dont have this half rubber washer at all (see video) and doesn't look like the steering rack is overly delicate. my last concern is if i was to do all this would i then have trouble with steering bind... all up it would be about a 10mm increase in the steering movment (lock spacers are just 6mm) 4.41 into video let me know what you guys think cheers.

you have a pm

yer it does and its pretty much farked, goes off and on at the most random times - ive unhooked the alarm speaker though so it only flashes the lights. so to take it out do i pretty much just find it (under the dash somewhere im assuming) and rip it all out?

for the past year ive been having electrical problems. I have now replaced the alternator and battery with brand new items on my r32 gtst. alternator charges the battery great, when the batterys charged it has plenty of kick. But if the car sits for a day or more the charge has dropped considerably. after 3 days or more the battery will be dead flat! cannot find any loose or worn out wires where charge may be escaping - what is going on! ps. my brand new battery is now 100% (wont charge at all from a battery charger) - im assuming this is from it being left dead flat a couple of times...

alot of effort for an extra 44cc or whatever it is and a slighty better flowing head

master cylinder o rings/rubbers probs worn out and are slowly letting oil past depressurising the clutch. when you pump the clutch pdeal does it disengage a bit better? new master cylinder is only $50 or so

$100 its the coilpacks.

to all those recommending putting a hi flo on - he wants to run stock boost so putting a hi flow on will only increase lag with no benifits of extra power. and +1 for it being normal for a bit of oil to be in the intake...

did u actually read his post at all? #1 its a 33 hi flow #2 his still running a stock computer - getting a nisstune soon and yer mate from what ive read hi flow 33 turbos are pretty average on rb25's let alone an rb20... keeping in mind that 1 hiflowed 33 turbo may not be the same as the next

Hi yall. Had my 32 gtst sitting for a while with a worn out alternator, went to start it the other day with a good battery and nothing happens when i turn the key. no fuel pump prime, no dash lights, no sounds. headlights work when you turn them on not that that means anything really Any ideas why this would be happening, cars been sitting for about 2 months....

thats fine