PUDZ 32R

you want to hope its not a turbo on the way out..... but id suggest an ex leak as above. or a power steering pump on the way out..

deep cycle batteries are not designed for use in cars. the reason is they are designed to be flattened slowly over a long time.. like listening to a stereo or running a car fridge. the best batteries for a car are usually Hybrid batteries. these are a hybrid of a deep cycle and have good Cold cranking amps to start the car. my bat has been in my car for about 4 years and it runs an 800W and a 360W amp and i always drive with my headlights on as well. i have had no worries however i run Gates racing blue belts so i run them tighter.. this brings me to my next point.. if you are getting belt squeal maybe it is slipping on your alternator and so not supplying the charge it needs. id say get it tightened and buy a new battery from supercheap or something.. maybe spend $200 on a century bat? optimas are better but you pay for it and a lot of the reason they are in cars is because they are lighter than standard while giving heaps better performance. normal batteries are heavy f**kers!! hope this helps in some way.

just adjust them down mate!! look at the back of the headlights and find the adjusted screws and turn them. at least that works for a 32. im sure a 33 would be the same.

i changed nine as it had done over 40,000km. used 22mm (or 7/8") from KC tools it only just fit tho and i had to cut the old wires off.. also needed a f**king strong power bar as mine had been in for a good 110,000km... was time for a replacement!!! a good tube socket would work BUT im guessing you wont be able to get the plug from the wires thru the centre..

mine were leaking 2. pulled the lights off and cleaned all the shit off with turps then bought a tube of the proper non hardening black windscreen sealant. $9.95 at supercheap or BCF has it. its shit to work with but at least you can get ur lights back off again. if you use silicone say goodbye to being able to get them out again..

same thing happening to mine. cleaned afm and it fixed it but it still happens so now i figured it out to be a dodgy plug connection on the afm.slowly vibrates loose then i pull over and tap it and it works fine,, thinking im gunna hav2 hard solder the wires to the afm.....

as above!! use pure argon and nylon liner. the liners usually dont last that long tho i welded heaps of alum with mig but nuthin under 4mm plate i would say a mig weld that thin would sit on top of the metal more than a tig weld which tends to "sink in" that was my experience. btw i was using .9 and it welded 4mm up just fine was on a unimig 165.

Nexen N3000's dry grip 9/10 wet grip 7/10 cheap and last approx 40000km or about a year...

gday guys and girls just wondering if any1 knows where and if i can get a 2nd hand set of 17x9 +30 rays T57RC rims? what would be a good price to pay for them as they are $2600 new. i dont need tyres as i will be fitting 225 or 235 nexen N3000's as they grip like shit to a blanket they will be fitting an R32 GTS-T that is only lowered approx 25mm with standard rear guards will they fit or will a +35 fit better? just a few questions any answers will be appreciated thanks guys. have attached a pic...

nobody has any idea how to do this??

the AAC valve only controls the engine idle when you turn the air con etc on and the IAC or idle air control valve does the idle if i am not mistaken? clean them out and check for vac leaks even a tiny hole in your intercooler can screw the AFR and this will make it run heaps rich and idle like a bitch.

wont affect the guage reading. that is taken from the signal wire. all earth wires connect together anyway. and if you dont worry about it being on all the time then wire them together.

you can connect the grounds together then run 1 wire to ground but if you connect the light and positive together the light will run permanently not just when you turn the headlights on. if that is not a worry there is no reason you cant wire them together..

my car was doing the same thing i replaced everything. new water pump, thermostat hoses etc etc.. turns out the rad was blocked solid cos i used cheap shit coolant from woolies. i got it cleaned at a rad place and is great. cost me $135 including labour to pull it out etc. take it out urself and take it in tell them the core is blocked you want it strip cleaned. where they take the tanks off and jam a strip of stainless into every core to clean them. i wish i had done that first wouldve saved me a lot of money and heartache.. give it a shot mate

also when you drill the hole put some tape over where you are going to drill to help stop splintering of the fibres and the resin chipping.

hey guys does anyone know how to remove the red lenses from the placcy frame on the R32 taillights? i took the lights out of the car to clean them and re seal as they were leaking water into my boot (not too good for the install)!! and there is some super hard grey glue that holds the actual lenses into the frame. want to get the lenses out without hurting them. any help would be appriciated! cheers guys and girls

if your fan clutch is screwed it will be locked on even when the engine is warming up. you can tell this by getting under the bonnet and revving the engine. if the fan makes a massive roaring noise so you can hardly hear the motor for more than a few seconds at a time (providing the engine is not very hot) check it on a cold day. if the fan roars for a few seconds and turns off it is working fine. mine locked on in my 31 i used2 own and the motor had f**k all power and chewed the fuel. those fans pump a shitload of air and take about 30hp out at 5000rpm. also like many others have said you should sit in fourth or third. labouring the car will make it use more fuel as the engine is trying to boost even tho the guage says its not so the injectors are pumping shitloads of juice in in an attempt to get more revs when you touch the throttle even a tiny bit. but it will respond slow and chew juice. hope this helps. do you stil run an the AFMs or is it running in D-Jetro mode with MAP sensors?

Ebay!!!! theres a few on there

i recently bought an oxygen sensor for my RB20 and it is the universal fit one to suit EL falcon. seems to have made a good difference to my fuel economy as i am now getting 530km to a tank on 98 at highway driving including overtaking. old one gave me about 380km to a tank. i dont know any of the voltages but when i hooked mine up i bought a 4 pin plug from supercheap and just cut the old factory plug off and replaced the whole lot. there was 2 brown wires an one heavily shieled one which i assumed was the ecu signal. i think your o2 sensor is wired up wrong or is the wrong one. mine is a TRIDON FORD EL replacement P# TOS016 supercheap P# SP100905 got it for $95 inc discount. my car is doing much the same crap as yours still and it gets worse when i run it on 91 or other low octane fuel. im putting it down to the knock sensor but i dont know where it is. sometimes car runs like a shower of shit then it will suddenly lose power and struggle to overtake and refuses to rev out to 7800. gets there eventually but feels slow so i put it down to the timing being retarded by the computer. i think you should change your o2 sensor again mate as you will get crap economy if it isnt working.

cheers for that mate great tutorial there. was just the plastic surround that had me stumped i had no desire to snap it

guys does anyone know any special tricks for getting the plastic surround off the stereo and climate control etc? trying to get rid of my POS pioneer stereo and replace it with Alpine. need to get the whole centre out to fix the climate control 2 any help would be appreciated thanks

i think its 3/4 UNF. but take a new filter to a hardware store and try different bolts.

looks to me like your wastegate and ex outlets merge at the turbo. this might cause tapering boost as it is better for the gases to merge further down the ex(even 6 inches) this helps prevent turbulence. those dumps look mighty small btw.

i am assuming you mean ur '32? if so i am not sure but i dont think the AFM will cause the car to stop it just wont let it rev past about 2300. thats what happened to mine when the afm was playing up so i just un plugged it and drove home. have you considered it could be ur alarm cutting the engine? fuel pump cutting out? also check all the electrical connectors to all your sensors one could be loose and making your car play up. get into them with some CRC or similar. let us know any progress mate

i could not get a cheap regular puller to fit in between the aircon rad and the engine is all. and mine took shitload of force to get to move. but it has been on there for 18 years. younger cars prob wont need much force.