Ceffy

I stayed with a 4 stud rotor, it sucks but its the only way to keep cost down. But I found some slotted ones on ns.com heres the link... http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=395629 Better than keeping them stock...

It was purchased online by a mate for his skyline. Then he traded it in and sold the copy to me.

Yes. Your limiter is located under your right foot. To disconnect, lift your foot off the pedal. To connect, put your foot back down on the pedal.

I couldnt be f**ked to rip it out again, 12hrs lying under it will drive me insane. If I cant fint anything today, shes goin down to the clutch shop....

Needs Demon Camber haha... Matte paint looks sweet dude....

4 + 2 plotters are better then 1 + 1. 33 brakes look sweet but dont look as big as my z32's.... But you have rears, I dont =-(

Uni joints are your friend. Perfect for undoing nuts and bolts around corners. Ive pulled off my manifold 4 times now, but I kept the two halfs together every single time. It also helps if you have someone under the car guiding the socket or spanner onto the bolt.

Clutch and box are in, but theres no drive. Cant even select gears with clutch in, bleed the clutch and adjusted the clutch pedal, with no success, look like the slave isnt getting full travel. spent 12hrs on it yesty getting the box in and trying to fix the problem. Very pissed off with it. Im going to start in gear, drive it, crunch through the gears and blow my box up...........................BANG, done.

Kw's for bragging rights. Big power is the shiz these days. My mate is always telling me his 500hp car isnt enough from 35/40 and is going GT42, I went in it and loved it, now I want that power.

Not sure but its an easy bolt up, I know you need a navara speedo cable, but my speedo is out already, was going to get one of those speedo correctors from jaycar. R32 electrical loom for what? only plug on it is for reverse lights, and speedo cable is mechanical, no loom. Dont think anyone goes supra box in a nissan. 25 boxes are pretty strong. Ive seen one handle 500hp from a RB30et for a few years now and the dude smashes gear changes when he races....

UPDATE: Clutch is fried, pulled the gearbox out and it revealed small shavings in the oil. Had a 3 puck cushion button from my knowledge, lots of hot spots on the flywheel. I want to go 25 box but dont have the time to do it, im going to be kicking myself down the track caz I know Ill blow it up on the track, but the car need to be engineered argh!

Looks fat dude, fits the guards well, wat tyres u using? 235s?

Coilovers are in and they are wicked, they are the smoothest riding coilovers Ive ever ridden in. Im so glad I bought these over the Trust/Greddy items. There are 10 levels (0 to 9 clicks) of damper adjustment and there is a noticable difference in each level. 0 being a smooth but firm ride and the 9th click is stiff but too bouncy for the street... The removeal of my old coilovers revealed a nasty surpise, I knew that my camber tops were cracked and taking it out it completely split. The removal and install was quite easy, measured the silkroads to about the same height as the old ones and fitted them up. Used all new nuts, bolts and washers as I had almost rounded of an old nut. The coilovers had come with a special offset holed spacer which pulls the upright of the hub out from the knuckle to reduce camber, but Im not sure how it exactly work as the instructions were in japanese, I really gotta learn how to speak/read it.... At first the cars height was a little lower then what it was before, took it for a drive and the wheels were rubingon the front guards. I had 235s on it and got 225s before I fitted the coilovers but should have gotten 215s. I dialed in more camber but it was not the solution and ended up raising the height by 10mm to a height of about 90mm being the lowest point on the side skirt. Unfortuately this is my only post install shot with the RAYS Engineering Lug Nuts, will get more of installed coilovers. I got the silkroads through Jesse Streeter and bought them for about $1400 in Japan when 1 Aus Dollar was fetching around 82 Yen. It will be more now that the Dollar has gone down, then it was extra for his commission and postage. Good thing is that he can get you anything from Japan direct from the seller and straight to you skipping out on the middle man.

I upgraded to a 40mm triple core radiator and I rarely see temps above 85degrees on the street, only use the clutch fan with no shrud.

Just got these today, so excited now. They are goin in tomoz. Silkroads coilovers, Rays engineering wheel lug nuts and a free silkroads shaving bag haha. These things are excellent quality. Better than the popular tien products as over 90% of this product is manufactured in Japan, instead of getting them from cheaper countries, making quailtiy lower then others. Cheers

What a sleeper this will be, looks awesome dude. Love the custom manifold, are you gonna lower the X?

Have you done a forum search? Could yield some useful info...

sorry dude, its a hard copy...

At work I use something called leak check, some special fluid but you can make the same stuff from water and dish washing detergent. Add a few drops in a bottle with a small hole in the top, shake it up the bottle and spray the bubbles on the vacuum hoses with engine running. Air leaking out will create more bubbles and leak found... Sounds a bit stupid but it works...

IMO dont buy a car that you havint looked at in person and driven, look and take as many for a drive if possible, you'll get a feel and see what good and whats not... I only looked at two before I bought mine and wish I looked at more...

Save money and do the work yourself. Pull out the arm, get them to put in the bushes if they need to be pressed in. Reinstall and get them to do a wheel alignment. Ask if you can get a trade discount to lower price. Or go somewhere else and shop around...

As you said "little problem" you'll fix it. Just keep looking at the light at the end of the tunnel...

I switched to a 0.9bar actuator on my GT30 IW and it held 20psi well on the dyno, but has been set to 16psi by my tuner (thru the EBC). Ideally you want to run an actuator pressure as close to what you want to run. Find yourself a 1.4bar actuator....

I might look into it if I find problems on the track. What did you have to do to make it fit? Ultimately I would like to get a Non Turbo 300ZX brake master/booster as they have more rear brake bias. A mate fitted one from a Nissan Partol and said it worked well but he had a bias adjuster in his 180SX... Also, fitted the bolt on spacers which I'll be using for the track. Looks phat and no more chassis rail rub, yay... Cheers...

Best to buy something thats going to be a bolt up fit, there are traders on this site with a range of stuff of what you want... Try these links: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja...ms-t167807.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ex...Hk-t220968.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...-K-t138738.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...er-t209304.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bl...ot-t271942.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bl...le-t263858.html