lowlux

i think VPW mailorder have some but its cheaper to get it done yourself,and this i think is a very good idea as when u run a little higher boost pressure that hose sometimes sucks itself in and slows down the flow

well if you read the new zoom mag it tell u how to do it properly and it states that if u use steel piping there is realy no advantage by using ally, also the air inside the piping is moving that fast that even though the piping on the outside might be a little hot, the air inside the cooler piping doesent have enough time to heat up because its constantly moving,so really theres no point in putting your piping the other way, id say the best way would be to come straight out of the throttle body then do a 120degree turn{like sydneykid said) and then go down and out to the cooler as this is the shortest route

Well skyrine_dave i could never put in a rb26 for the money im doing a rb30/25 because i work for a automotive company the parts uses are basically cost price, like i mean the whole block prepped ready for the head will cost me under $1000 thats with NEW pistons and plus the head i can for around the 500-1000 mark now thats nowhere near the 6k+ u need for rb26 have i made a good case??

thanks dragon

for 13,500 its very good landed, alot of stockish gts-x go for around the 11,000 mark. so with the cooler 2.4stroker and turbo its worth the extra 2,500 cause its gonna cost u more than that to do those mods. where do u get all these emails from with these cars going up for auction????

nice one thanks joel,oh and another thing would the rb30 block bolt upto the rb20 5spd gearbox? cause i know the clutches are different,maybe a flywheel change would be what u need???

hey matt can u tell me whether u have to elongate the gallieries on the block or head? if its the block can u draw a circle of which one isnt lined up. And that block is very NICE! do u get it painted silver or does it look like that after being acid dipped?

nah ive got the eccs red top,but in the last dyno i did it ran way too rich so how would u explain this? i put it down to the vacumn line not being in and it leaned out up top

ahhhh thank u very much "works auto" thats what i wanted to hear,sooo taking that off must have leaned it out up top, DAMN YOU!!!!! i knew it after the run i said would taking that pipe of and not teeing into it have anything to do with fuel reg, He said NAH!!. ill take it back and take a look with it, also u said GTR injectors go straight in? like they plug straight in do they? cause i can remap it myself to suit bigger injectors

Matlowth i work at crow cams and one of the grinders builds race engines,and his mate prep's things like blocks,rods,cranks etc for race cars and the price he gave me for "ME" to get it done is around 200, thats why its cheap like i said in my post.

exactly what i thought,maybe ill try a new fuel pump,cause a look at the fuel mapping and there fine sooo im gonna put in a new pump

yeah my boost guage is plubmed into the back aswell but theres a threaded type hole and just a little nipple type thing, where this goes down towards the fuel rail oh and my dyno result was shit, first run toooo lean so i couldnt rev it past 4400 but it made 138rwkws,then the 2nd run it was toooo rich,so somthings farked

just wondering when they had my car on the dyno they put there boost line into the back of my plenum(nearest to the firewall) but they just left it off they didnt T into it.where there is a vacumn line that looks like it goes to the fuel rail? could this be for fuel reg or something cause the car actually ran lean on the dyno, does any1 know where it goes?

shot peening i think is when they make the rod smooth by takeing the imperfections out of it,but i dont know about the other one,

yup most ecu's when theres too much boost will give it a tanker load of fuel and rip the timing out of it,

also i suggest ppl that u send your rods to get shot peened and nitred and they will be alot stronger,and its pretty cheap aswell ive been told by a engine builder at work that it should be around $200 for me but i rekon not more than $400, so put that in the document joel

this is great this is one of the best rb30/25 conversion threads ive read,and the most healpfull. Anyways with ringing up a few places ive found i can chase a rb25det head without VVT now this would be a better choise as u get the better flowing injectors and apparently best valve springs?? but i dont know about that one. Also does any1 have a picture of the rb30 block and the galleries that have to be enlarged???

how would u raise the compression to 9to1 then?? the only way would be to either buy longer rods? or go with different pistons would u? or machineing the head instead?? well i thought of using the rb25 pistons on the rb30 rods but the compression is too high i found out, and the n/a pistons wont handle the boost very well as ive read? is this true?

hmmmmm so what if i used non turbo pistons with better rings? also i thought using the non turbo rb25 head would make more compression than a turbo rb25 head? or is it the same?actually i would be the same wouldnt it, also what would be the best compression ratio? around the 9's? and using the t04 is cheap thats why lol i dont wanna go spending $2000 on turbo, well if i can get away with r32 ecu then maybe spend more money on turbo but who know,i want to build the bottom end first then make decisions from there. But help on the compression side would be good what about a slight machine the top of the block?

i just use powersteering oil cause the hicas and powersteering resivoir is the same ash. i know cause i run out of it every 2 week lol

ok then well my plan is this, use rb30 non turbo block, rip apart block so its bare,send it to get acid dipped,checked etc a light hone. Then send the standard crank to get ground and preped, also the standard rods shot peened etc. Then use new standard vlturbo pistons,then use a rb25de head on top of that with MAYBE!!! using the rb20 ecu to control it all. Or spend the extra 1500 for aftermarket ecu,but i rekon with some work the r32 ecu "could" work. Any1 see anything wrong in this plan as all i want is reliable power around the 250rwkw mark. Oh and using a t04 with ext gate aswell

wondering if any1 has one of these or maybe even a whole motor for sale? any1 out there wanting to put a turbo motor in there r33 then ill buy your old motor

well how much can the stock rb30et rods take? it must be around the 400+hp mark? cause ive got a rb30 sitting in the garage and i want to do this sooo much

i got a little off cut of ally checker plate,gave it a quick polish and cut it to shape,and drilled 2 holes and used that instead looks nice

building a 3ltr really isnt that much more,if u use the rb25head u can use things like exaust manifold,maybe the turbo if yourve got like a t04 already, and the bottom end stuff for the rb30 it actually pretty cheap,i prices brand new pistons and chromeoly rings for the rb30et and they came to $400 for the set, (thats through work) how much power are u looking for out of this rebuild? cause im looking at doing the exact same thing