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well pulled the turbo out this arvo gonna try porting the w/g passage a little to c if that helps it doesnt seem fouled or anything hopefully ill have it all back in and runnin by tomorrow, let u guys know how i go.

jay95r33, im pretty sure its the stock actuator what i dont get is if the actuator can hold/waste enough for 10psi when its normal why does it creep higher than 10 when the bleeders there. anyhow picked up a rb20 actuator today and gave that a go (still gotta check if it has the same travel as the rb25 actuator). in second gear it was pretty good-held 10 psi crept to a little over 12 by 6000 and had dropped back to a little over 11 by 7000. 3rd gear it held 10 then for everywhere else was about 1psi higher than 2nd gear. this is a improvment over th rb25 actuator but does it sound acceptable/normal?? it seems no matter what happens down low im always gonna run a couple of psi higher up top. do you guys think an ebc would clean things up from hear or is my problems still elsewhere considering i wanna run a pretty acurate 12psi?? i would have the biggest cry if i forked out the money for one and it didnt help, this problems already come close to reducing me to tears as it is(he he eh)

jay95r33, finally got around to runin some compressed air through it, the actuator and wastegate operate really smoothly although the actuator gets to full travel way before the w/g. ie, the w/g itself can rotate around over90 deg whereas the actuator at full trave only rotates it around 40deg. does this sound about right, does anyone know how much travel i should be gettin from my standard actuator? with the compressed air i didnt have it hooked up to a guage or anything (didnt have one) but being really carful on the button once it cracked its movement was very smooth no binding anywhere.

good to hear you got your car back luck one dude, i had my car broken into about 2 years ago at my works car park i had the brant 3 pt imobalizer (needed it 4 shannons insurance) and it stopped the theives so i recon its pretty good i paid 700 od for it but this was with an alarm aswell i think it was just 450 for the imobalizer. got a ignition barrel from a wreckers just off newbridge rd just before the bridge to liverpool $75 cant remember what there called or if they still exist,like someone previosly said youll find everthing at just jap. good luck with it

In reguards to rust, i have had the steel pipes from the type-s kit installed on my car for the past 4-5 months now and there isnt a spec of rust anywhere inside or out. The pipes are coated or painted with something aswell so its not just bare metal, seems pretty good to me

rbvs, i would be happy to run 10psi if i could get it to come on and stay there right through the revs, i actually wanna run 12 but i cant do that at the moment without it creepin another3-4 psi up top will the ebc be able to hold 10+ as bleeders and regs cant seem to do it. i tried to add an external spring today. it ran 11 psi but still managed to creep to 14+ psi up top (done the same thing as when i tried a bleeder or reg)

all the hoses have been checked and r new. im beginin to think and ebc might be the way to go aswell i just dont wanna fork out the dosh for the thing just yet only to discover ive still got the same prob. black33, the w/g opens till the little arm on the outsde of turbo runs parallel with the front to back of car im assuming this is fully open. the dump is the same shape as the standard flange and on the inside i have ground out any weld, dags, and irregularities so i guess its flowin pretty good i think the gasses would hit the gate before they hit the wall of the pipe. is it possible that the waste passage could be a little fouled with carbon or sumthing the car has done 80000kms.

the wierd thing is when i set a bleeders on say 10 psi the car will run 10npsi down below but will have creeped to say 14up top. playn with the boost was how i originally discovered the prob.

thanks for all your imput guys but every thing im tryn just doesnt seem to work. and i dont understand how if i disconect my actuator from the w/g (the machanical linkage) and tie off the w/g in the fully open position and go 4 a drive i can still get 10psi+ by redline. revhead, if what ur sayin is the case what can i do to fix it.

dj l3thal, but then wouldnt i be getting the 10psi at around 3000rpm instead of at redline, jas-25t, might give your compressed air trick a go.

the wastegate itself seems to have a very smooth movment. is it possible that the actuator doesnt have enough travel to open the w/g enough

no its just a one piece 3inch they also used the standard flange off the original pipe and just shaped the 3 inch pipe to fit.

thanks for the tip champ, but i enjoy workin on my car and fixin the probs myself.

Hi guys, Im having a problem where my boost keeps increasing with rpm which i originally thaught was due to my boost controller but now dont know what it is. As i accelerate boost comes on at 2800rpm (7psi) and manages to hold till about 4000 where after this it just slowly increase till i have a max 10+psi at 7000 rpm. its like the wastegate just cant waste enough is this possible on std turbo(the factory solinoid has been removed and i just have a hose going from plenum to w/g actuator). My mods are 3in turb back exaust, hks type s cooler, adjust cam gear, 910 fuel pump. Origially the exaust was restricting the movment of the w/g but i ground it out today and it now seem to have full travel ie, arm is parallel with the front to back of car. but the problem still there. i have driven the car with the actuator off and w/g lockwired fully open and it still manages to make 10psi by 7000 (this was before i grinded the exaust but seeing as ive still got the prob ide say it would still do it now) im wondering weather the std actuator has enough travelin it i pulled it out and had a play it seems to work smooth with no leaks. anyone got any ideas as im all out?????????

this morning i disconected the w/g actuator and lockwired the w/g full open (w/g arm rotated around just under 90 deg about 80) then went for a drive, as expected the car wouldnt make any boost, then at around 4000rpm it started making boost, by 5000 it had 5psi and by redline just under 10psi. Does this sound unrealistic? i have no idea how to fix this problem??

thanks for the help guys, im pretty sure now the problem is with my car and not the diy controller now, but i cant for the life of me figure out why its decided to start doing it. damn, and runin a little more boost was my last thing to do before gettin the safc tuned which i have been dying to do for ages

Hi 51jay, sorry dont have a camera and im pretty hopless on a comp so probably wouldnt have the knowhow to post them if i did, the standard boost solinoid is no longer in the car, went for a drive in it last night with both valves open it ran 7psi till 5000 (around) and then started to creep to 10psi by redline its its really wierd like ive still got the factory solinoid in, i took the whole contoller off and just tryed to run with a hose from pleum to w/g and it done the same thing. so im guessin the problems with the car itself the funny thing is ive never had a problem with the boost creeping before i started screwin with it.

no, just thaught somone here might have had some experiance with it thats all

hi guys, I just installed the audi diy boost controller(autospeed), and am having major troubles setting it up. it seems when i try to set it its stays on one boost setting ie, 8psi till around 4500rpms and then just creeps like crazy till 13psi at 7000 (worse in higher gears). i set the reg first and it done this even without the relief set I used the norgren valves described in the article with the softer springs and a check valve that had a low crack pressure (i could crack it open with my mouth). as far as i can tell ive put it together correctly, wastegate-reg(black nob)-relief(white nob)-plenum, arrows on the valves are facing towards wastegate and on check valve towards plenum. so why isnt it workin?? any suggestions, hints, tip or help would be greatly appreciated.

woops sorry didnt realize this thread had somany other pages, ignore my comment

sorry but unless ur racing around a gocart track there is no way a rs is gonna pull away from any of those bikes especially not the r1. yes it maybe quicker around corners but in therms of on the throttle pull it just doesnt have the power and will be mowed down on any straight.

i have a c's short shifter in my car and compared to stock i recon it feels a million times better the stick feels way tighter and shifts are obviously way shorter although it does feel abit heavier.

i mounted mine ontop of the steering column just off to the left, it does block my view of the fuel gauge abit but i recon it looks pretty cool there.

sorry i meant do they alway come with the valve, I wonder weather the valve is just there as an option to fit a porticular make of car. it ticks me off how they supply us with this wiz bang valve thats impossible to get fittings for. oh well seein as ur in syd and didnt find the fitting it looks like ill just have to remove the valve and get a normal fitting for it, gives me a bit more confidence doin it this way knowing its already worked for you.

sorry that was abit hard to understand i ment when i disconected the fuel line just after the cap(on the outside of the fuel tank) where the hose connects to the cap. if that makes any sense