otto

not sure if an f1 car can even do a sub 10 sec 1/4, superbike definatly can. take off like an aeroplane??? stop giving these cars superhuman powers a funny car is way faster and it doesnt take off like an aeroplane! anyhow 700 odd kg and 800odd bhp vesus 200odd kg with rider and 250 odd bhp you do the math! there aint much between them once downfoce is taken away. if the f1 went past it on the straight its because its corner exit speed is so high (wanna take a guess why).

boy am i sick of hearing how fast f1 cars are compared to xyz try putting a ton of downforce on the bike and then see how quick it is, better yet take the downforce from the f1 and see how slow it is...

sounds like youve awnered your question, your final conclusion is spot on! Its just up to you to make the desision cause unfortunatly we cant do that for you and would take away all the fun of customizing your car. good luck!

I personally doubt weather there will be any gains with his mods and no boost, probably not even a smother power delivery. Timing will be pretty spot on std and the safc will do just as good a job of controlling fuel at those airfow levels, pfc is overkill hands down! the only time the pfc starts to make gains is when the safc starts runing out of resolution(if thats the best word to discribe it, cant be bothered typing a in depth decription) and the std ecu starts taking over playing with the timing and fuel (r&r). my guess is the pfc would start to be worthwile/show gains above the 200rwkw mark

Am thinking of selling my car i love it to death but insurance is to expensive and it stresses me out driving around without it. As stated its a 1993 R33 Gtst with.. #400r front bar and side skirts with M-spec rear pods (std s1 wing) #Hks type-s fmic kit #Full 3in turbo back exaust with h/f cat and 4.5in titanium cannon #Rush 02 pod with heat shield and CAI #Adjust ex cam gear 3.5 deg ret #Bosch 910 fuel pump #Safc II(dyno tuned 208.8rwkw) #boost set 11psi(turboxs bleeder)+rb20 actuator #C's short shifter #2in autometer boost guage #18in shadow chrome rims pedders springs lowered 1.5in #brant 3pt imobalizer #Solace f1 window tint #Leather gear and hbrake boots #Maroon in colour #Done 105,000km (regularly serviced and had major service @ 100k) Has manual and logbooks from japan complied in 2001 when it had 36000km (completly stock)and has been owned by me eva since very clean car $19500ono. Contact Shaun, 0414569024 or pm me for more details and pics

also power fc $500+ to tune, safc $100odd dollars to tune making the powerfc $1000 more expensive and for your mods i dont think your gonna get anywhere near $1000 worth of gains, especially if your not interested in increasing boost.

I hope knowone replys to this thread...and yes you are on the right track this is a stupid question unless ofcourse youve been living on the moon for the past 13 odd yoears

SK is offering to anwser the question burning on everyones lips "how does slides turbo mesure up to the gcg hiflow" as these are 2 turbos that seem to be a direct replacement to the stockie i think its a fair comparo.....I really hope slide takes up the offer so our questions can be awnsered I personally would like to upgrade my turbo but want a direct replacement so these two turbos would be my major options..one is alot cheaper and the other is claiming better performance and possibly service life...It would be nice to see a real life (well close to anyhow)comarison of the two. Sounds like a golden opportunity SLIDE if your turbo is only a little behind the gcg your still on a winner(I surely would strong consider your turbo over the gcg) as your more compeditively priced and imagine if it outperforms it??????

Hey mate my car started doin exactly what your describing when i got cai exaust and cooler i put it down to the wastegate not being able to waste enough. i disconnected the actuator and held the wastegate wide open like you and couldnt get the car to run below 12psi, I ported the wastegate as much as i could and now the lowest the car will run is 9psi which im happy with seeing as i run the car at 11psi, although if i give it a sudden hit in second or first gear it will spike horribaly to 14-15psi(im guessin the wategate is still abit inadiquet) the spiking seems to taper off the higher the gear im in. Ide love to know how othe peoples cars run when there wastegates are held fully open???? comeon guys give it a go

i recon a good imobalizer is far more important than a alarm, had my car broken into once and if it wasnt for the imobalizer my baby would have been history.

I have a similar sound to what your saying but when i press the clutch in it goes away been like that for ages

If your still gonna keep the std turbo and only run about 12psi i would go safc as its way cheaper and your not gonna gain that much more if anything with the pfc. but if you have bigger plans in the future you may aswell get the pfc now.

I got the same gains as you with an safc11 so have alot of other people, should we be claiming the safc is the superior managment??

my canon is titanium, its was so much lighter than the stainless canons.

im pretty sure if you calculated it out you would get 270ish. i bet when your cars at 2000 rpm your doin 70 and when your at4000 rpms your doin 150. you have an increase of 40kph per 1000 rpm increase

putting a h plate on someone to put them through humiliation is almost as bad as the arabs cutting off somenes hand for stealing so everyone can see the no handed man was a thief. I think the people trying to bring in these rediculous laws should be marked down as potencial terrorists cause they share alot of simillar extremist views. i mean why dont we all just wear a list on our backs of all the bad things weve done throughout our lives so everone can know how horrable we all really are (including the wank that wants to invent the hoon plate, bet hes not perfect)!

I recon price wize of you only want 12psi is to get an rb20 actuator and then a bleeder. the actuator will get you 10psi and then you dont have to get the bleeder to work as hard to make the rest (bleeders seem to get more inaccurate with spiking and things the more you make them bleed). ive got this setup on my car and it works alot better than the bleeder alone!

didnt know there was a 98 model r33 gts-t??

try disconecting your w/g actuator and tieng off the w/g in the fully open position then go for a drive and see how much boost it makes then youll know if its your actuator/controller/muscle line or not.

88 honda prelude the one with 4ws, was a fun car handled great and went ok for a 2l norn asp!

Hey my car dont this the other day when i changed my cas i must have torqued it up to much cause the mounting bolts were making contact with the pulley (have hks adjustables and they sit a little proud comared to the std ones). anyhow i just filed the bolt back abit and now its fine.

My car has done over 100,000km i dont have turbo timer and never let it cool down if ive been driving normally, if ive given it a hit then come to a stop (hardly ever happends) ill give it a couple of minutes. everything still seems to be fine! I agree just take it easy for the last minute or 2 of your drive.

Are you talking about an actual map sensor or the sensor for the boost gauge giving info to the ecu? sorry for the stupid questions I just always thaught the ecu got all its info (reguarding air) from the afm only.

sorry to jump in can someone clarify for me ... r33 gtst afm, r34 gtt afm+map. have i got it right??

no!