cheegar

Okay so im bored and thought of a diy water spray kit that doesnt need water pumps. Basically you use the pressure from the cold side to pressurise a small container that holds water. Once boost is hit (17psi) a 1 way valve(to stop water getting sucked into the system) set to 14psi opens up to pressurise the container fromt the top where it is pushed through a hose at the bottom and to another 1 way valve then into sprayers. Ive made a a shitty paint diagram just to show you what i mean. im pretty sure my theory is correct but if anyone has any input on this setup then feel free to share. Cheers, Chris

my little interior light in the boot stayed on even when my car was off and that killed my battery after letting it die and recharge over and over again.

maybe you should part it out *hint hint* get my hands on that 2 way and dem castor rods. but if you dont hopefully you get what you want for it. definitely a babe of a car!

according to the free pocket dyno on my iphone i have 8111kw. my r33 sure pulls hard....

I always use some sorta lube with difficult pipes. makes me happier and swear less

if you got a problem dude just post up on here and ill see what i can do from all the way over in adelaide haha anyways good luck

why not just clean your tank? seems pointless to change it cause its dirty. also remember your fuel runs through a filter sock on the fuel pump then another actual fuel filter. maybe replace your old filters and flush/siphon out the old petty

should of done a diy on it but heres some steps. 1. jack it up and remove rear wheels 2. drop rear propshaft(will need to take out middle thingy) 3. drop zorst. 4. undo 4 subframe bolts and coily mounting bolt dont forget to unplug and label hicas plugs and drop subframe and put aside 5. get to fuel lid )inside boot) undo all hoses and fuel filler hose 6. take out the 2 pins holding the straps and bobs your uncle the fuel tank should come down and crush your head probably missed some stuff out but just use your head and its not that hard will probably take pictures and do a write up when putting back in just to help people who were in my shitty situation

haha holy shit love that last video where the car pulls so much g's the dash just falls off. btw what is that dash made out of?

haha least i wont be stuck with this piece of shit. had to unbolt calipers and drop whole rear cradle and arms. will make it ten times easier to put everything back together btw im in the market for a r33 fuel tank if anyones got one in good condition?

so far ive taken the exh off and the rear 2nd half of the propshaft. undone the straps for the fuek tank and dropped the subframe a few inches. hopefully i can shoe horn it out. are you talking about the clamp that holds the rubber hosing thats connected to the fuel filler cap?

Brother is/was a panel beater and all his stuff is snap-on pretty much. Super expensive but amazing quality im lucky i never had to pay for it and just get to borrow them.

Im halfway through taking out my fuel tank but i cant seem to get to the bolts that hold the metal fuel tank straps to the chasis (the ones up near the boot) Has anyone got any advice on doing this cause im deffinately not keen to take the subframe out for those two large nuts. Cheers, Chris

buy 2 cheap ass allen keys from super cheap and superglue it in the bolt then just buy two more bolts to replace them.

Gday everyone just need some advice not realy sure if this should be here but.. car has got a split in the fuel tank right on the join above and around the strap (towards the front of the car Has anyone got any idea what i can seal it with as its a plastic tank and it needs to be able to resist petrol? ive tried some loctite petrol tank repair putty and some quiksteel putty but both didnt work. apparently it doesnt bond to plastic is what the RAA guy said but im not a fan of the RAA so... If not has anyone removed their fuel tank? how hard? btw this is for an r33 s1 gtst. Much love, Chris

Whats wrong with ABS? From what i understand it's there to help you from braking to hard and locking up causing your braking to become a lot less controlled and dangerous.

pssssh just use thicker zip ties

zip ties

the other day when i was a turbo tune i had seen theyd gotten some heating device and heated up spanners and bent them to make them fit in funny spots. could buy a cheapo spanner from supecheap bend it, drill it. just a thought.

or maybe try a jap wreckers you might be lucky enough to find something like this

metal fabricator? my guess is it wouldn't be cheao but eh thats how shit is haha. best of luck dude. Chris

turns out the banjo bolt from the old turbo and the new turbo kit were both the same size but both somehow wrong and imperial :S but for future reference the oild feed on an rb25 or all rb's for that matter is a 12x1.25. Also +1 to thread dr. very good bloke didnt charge me after we couldnt figure out thread size. Cheers for all the help

Hey mitch hopefully once the car is done and running ill pop round for one of theses

The thread on the block isnt too bad only the first few threads. Anyways i cbf stressin over this shit ive just booked it in with the thread doctor. Thanks for the help guys. CHeers, Chris

yeah cheers mate the guy at coventry fasteners reckons because its a bolt for the block the thread is designed for higher vibrations so its gonna be a harder to find POS