Benzino33

<br /><br /><br />yeah a few people have told me that. Dunno if i should just do a full remap of mine or go for a power fc, coz they cost a bit of money. And the guy i wanna buy from said it was tuned here, so it wouldnt be 100octane fuel. I was jus worried about gettin it coz i dnt hav a front mount IC and was worried if it would run wierd without one.

<br /><br /><br />ok, I understand,, the only thing thats worrying me is my exhaust sounding like nothin comin through it.sometimes I have to turn it off and on a few times while driing for the car to sound normal. Sometimes happens as well when the engines warm. It would be normal, i'd turn it off, do something, come back and tun it on and it would do it agian. Maybe a blocked cat converter but i dunno

<br /><br /><br />ok cool, but yeah forgot to mention, the turbo's been high flowed, but i personally wouldnt push it over 12psi anyways. the ecu's been done by top secret so im pretty interested to see what it can do. so ,cool as long as it will be alright then im sold. thanks man

<br /><br /><br />ok cool, but yeah forgot to mention, the turbo's been high flowed, but i personally wouldnt push it over 12psi anyways. the ecu's been done by top secret so im pretty interested to see what it can do. so ,cool as long as it will be alright then im sold. thanks man

Okay, hi everyone My s1 r33 gtst does this wierd thing, usually at cold start, it will rev high, like around 1500 rpm to 2k and wont come down. Either it just stays there for a while and comes down to normal when the engine heats up or it never comes down. What i noticed is that if i turn the car off and then on again, it goes back to normal idle (regardless of how cold the engine is). This has happened for a long time and has me confused. Ive changed the throttle body, IAC complete unit, TPS, cleared all vacuum leaks and changed the crank position sensor. Also what i notice is that when its in this "high rev" mode it kinda sounds like nothing is blowing through my exhaust when down shifting and leaving it in gear. but when i turn it off and back on again (while driving), its fine! thats as best as I could explain it, found it a bit hard to explain to mechanics, but yeah, if any ones experienced this before, how did you deal with it? and would it pose a big problem? Any info would be great, thanks Ben

<br /><br /><brwow, we are in pretty similar situations, Ive done a rebuild, done the turbo and only got a pod filter. Yeah only rebuild the long block, so kinda sems like they gave me back this amazing engine block surrouned by sh*tty parts lol. my idle used to be all over the place, so i began replacing parts. i replaced the IAC valve,then eventually the whole unit, got new tps, got it re positioned, got a new throttle body and cleaned the unit out. That worked for my idle issues, never stalled or hunted around much again, only rarely. I'd also check for any vacuum leaks or cracked hoses, ask ur mech to do a compression test. rebuilt engines have so much power when everything around them is running right. also for your rattle, I'd suggest u check that all the bolts up font are tightened. Good luck wit it Ben

<br /><br /><br />thats fkd

<br /><br /><br />Oh really? well Im not sure coz the guy is from here and ran it in his car, said it was alright with the fuel. the ecus been tuned by top secret. but yah i just wanna know if running a standard intercooler will be alright with that ecu?

Hi, just wanted to ask, coz Im not sure if I should go ahead with this yet, but yeah if I buy a remapped ecu that has been tuned for a front mount intercooler, when I dont have a front mount, is that bad? would I need to get a front mount for it to work properly? I found a tuned r33 ecu for a good price and just wanna know that it will work right with a more stock set-up. The only mods I have are pod filter, and thats about it. The ecu I wanna buy has been tuned for a fmic and can run 15psi of boost. I'm currently running 10 psi. Any input would be greatly appreciated. lol this is where my Krudd bonus is headed

<br /><br /><br />Farrk I get that clicky noise as well when I turn my car on to ACC, dunno wat it is though. My idle's been screwed too, I replaced the IAC valve and the tps and repositioned the tps, idles alright now, but plays up every now and then. Im cleaning ou my AfM tomorro, so hopefully that solves everything. Good luck with yours.

<br /><br /><br />Yeah I used to have a stalling problem, changing the IAC fixd that,,also repositioning the tps helped the idle. lol and I hate it when u go to the mechanics and the car doesnt do what it was doing rong. Anyways, good luck with it

<br /><br /><br />Ok I'll try that tomorro, I already changed my tps a couple of weeks back, got it re positioned right and it ran a bit better, but the overall problems returned, I'll see how I go tomorro. Thanks a lot man

Bump I think I wanna try cleaning out my afm. Is there something specific i gotta buy to clean it out? of is there anything else i can spray in there that could fix it?

<br /><br /><br />Ive had it looked at awhile ago and they said it was alright, but I am considering replacing it. I'll see if I can find one and let u kno

<br /><br /><br />Hi, well yeah Ive had the car checked many times for vacuum leaks had the air flow meter looked at and ive replaced the O2 sensor. Each time I'd leave it with them and thay'd say nothing was wrong with it. When I took it to dyno, I took it to staus tuning and they said they could fix most of what's wrong, I just need a power fc. but I dont know if spending that much money on it will fix everything.They also said the restrictors have been taken off the car, so I know the stock ecu has been remapped before. Do you think its would be a good idea to try out a stocky r33 ecu? I dont have many mods and dnt have a fmic. I live in Melbourne, around Vermont, do u kno any good reputable places I can go to to have my car checked out properly? And with coming to the ecu conclusion, I feel like its the last thing I can try, but yeah I will make sure all the stuff is checked before I purchase an ecu. I'll let u kno how I go. thanks man

bump

<br /><br /><br />Hey man, ok Im pretty interested here, but just want to know, do I need to have a fmic on my car for it to work properly? (since yours has been tuned for it). wud i need to get a front mount for my car run alright?

<br /><br /><br />is your fuel pump alright,,mine sh*t itself a few days ago and would crank and crank but not start,replaced it and its fine

<br /><br /><br />I have that exact same problem,,plus a few more, but lets get this out of the way.. i wanna try it but can you show me a pic of how you did it?

Ok, where to begin? I bought my r33 turbo last June and had a few problems with it. The car ran fine at first but had an idle problem and would stall in neutral when coming to a stop. Found out it was blow-by and a dodgy stepper motor. Fixed that,moved on. Was alright till the end of the yeah when I got a knocking noise when applying throttle, took it to the mechs but they thought it was lifers, in the end, we found the car had done a bearing and i decided to rebiuild.(done at CW) Rebuild gave me a forged long motor, but all the other parts of the engine were put back on. When I got it back, ran ok but not as good as I expected, then the engine started to misfire at idle and about 5000rpms. Fast forward 2 weeks, changed the coil packs and spark plugs(platinum). It seemed to fix everything nd the car ran perfect for about a week, then misfire returned, changed the coil packs again (under warranty) and changed the spark plugs to re-gapped ones (0.6mm). This was done when I took it for a dyno run and we found that the car ran extemely rich (it was off the charts), it would break down at high revs so we changed the plugs to the gapped ones. It didnt make much power on the run but the guy said he couldnt tune it coz it was a stock computer and would require a costly remap, or for a few 100 bucks more I could get a power-fc and that would fix it. I didnt know too much about the car's history but knew it used to have a fmic,very lound and annoying aftermarket fuel pump, hi-flowed turbo and a pod filter. I have the feeling that the ecu would have probably been re mapped, but obviously didnt turn out too well. When I was at the dyno, the guy told me the car did have previous boost modifications but there were some underlying things he could diagnose off that ecu. Also, a few days ago, I was driving and the car suddenly shut down, I knew the fueal pump had gone. I had bought a spare one months earlier luckily(Walbro). Chnaged it the next day and it ran alright but I'd find that at cold start it would hesitate when I'd go to third gear, also when I put it in neautral coming to a stop, it seems to hunt a bit to find the right idle.<br />Ok here's a run down of how its running today: -Seems to have lost a lot of power -Hesitates -Loses power up high -Runs rich A lot of it is hard to explain but it's just not running right. I did change a few more parts over the course of owning the car. These include O2 sensor, Throttle body, TPS, coil packs and spark plugs. Now I have decided that it just might be a faulty ecu, I'm looking to but one from here on the forum (an already tuned one). What I would like to know is: Will changing the ecu completely change how the car runs and fix the problems? Am I better off just getting another series 1 stock ecu? I feel like I've done as many physical mods to help fix this as I could Sorry for the long essay, but I really do need to know what is going on with the car, I would really appreciate and input from any other Skyline owners. Has anyone else come across prblems like this? Hope to hear from you guys real soon, fel free to ask any more questions. Thanks Ben.

Ok, where to begin?& I bought my r33 turbo last June and had a few problems with it. The car ran fine at first but had an idle problem and would stall in neutral when coming to a stop. Found out it was blow-by and a dodgy stepper motor. Fixed that,moved on. Was alright till the end of the yeah when I got a knocking noise when applying throttle, took it to the mechs but they thought it was lifers, in the end, we found the car had done a bearing and i decided to rebiuild.(done at CW) Rebuild gave me a forged long motor, but all the other parts of the engine were put back on. When I got it back, ran ok but not as good as I expected, then the engine started to misfire at idle and about 5000rpms. Fast forward 2 weeks, changed the coil packs and spark plugs(platinum). It seemed to fix everything nd the car ran perfect for about a week, then misfire returned, changed the coil packs again (under warranty) and changed the spark plugs to re-gapped ones (0.6mm). This was done when I took it for a dyno run and we found that the car ran extemely rich (it was off the charts), it would break down at high revs so we changed the plugs to the gapped ones. It didnt make much power on the run but the guy said he couldnt tune it coz it was a stock computer and would require a costly remap, or for a few 100 bucks more I could get a power-fc and that would fix it. I didnt know too much about the car's history but knew it used to have a fmic,very lound and annoying aftermarket fuel pump, hi-flowed turbo and a pod filter. I have the feeling that the ecu would have probably been re mapped, but obviously didnt turn out too well. When I was at the dyno, the guy told me the car did have previous boost modifications but there were some underlying things he could diagnose off that ecu. Also, a few days ago, I was driving and the car suddenly shut down, I knew the fueal pump had gone. I had bought a spare one months earlier luckily(Walbro). Chnaged it the next day and it ran alright but I'd find that at cold start it would hesitate when I'd go to third gear, also when I put it in neautral coming to a stop, it seems to hunt a bit to find the right idle.<br />Ok here's a run down of how its running today: Seems to have lost a lot of power Hesitates Loses power up high Runs rich A lot of it is hard to explain but it's just not running right. I did change a few more parts over the course of owning the car. These include O2 sensor, Throttle body, TPS, coil packs and spark plugs. Now I have decided that it just might be a faulty ecu, I'm looking to but one from here on the forum (an already tuned one). What I would like to know is: Will changing the ecu completely change how the car runs and fix the problems? Am I better off just getting another series 1 stock ecu? I feel like I've done as many physical mods to help fix this as I could Sorry for the long essay, but I really do need to know what is going on with the car, I would really appreciate and input from any other Skyline owners. Has anyone else come across prblems like this? Hope to hear from you guys real soon, fel free to ask any more questions. Thanks Ben.

<br /><br /><br />Hey man, u still got the intercooler? also jus wanna ask, is it front mount, a full kit and would it fit an r33?

<br /><br /><br />Hey man, u still got the intercooler? also jus wanna ask, is it front mount, a full kit and would it fit an r33?

<br /><br /><br />Hey man, u still got the intercooler? also jus wanna ask, is it front mount, a full kit and would it fit an r33?

<br /><br /><br />Hey man, u still got the intercooler? also jus wanna ask, is it front mount, a full kit and would it fit an r33?