rasored

wagon was delivered to tuner running with :- stock cams - stock MAF - stock injectors - hybrid china RB25DET T3 unit with stock 6 bolt elbow fixing with stock internal waste gate / internals are HKS cartridge running stock size rear turbine wheel and has an 80mm cold side air intake but with what i think is stock size compression wheel . It ran well but suffered fuel cut as boost was set to 1.1bar - it had a noticeable flat spot at high 4,000 but then came back with even more of a kick . It ran with a mates manual S1 stock stagea and they were identical in acceleration ! I asked for the 555 injectors - z32 MAF to be fitted that i had supplied . The original idea was for an investigation as to whether the S1 stock ECU could be tuned ! but i was told no chance ( no new news there ) , so I had also supplied a piggy back unit which i was told was dud - so i brought a Stagea S2 ECU and he installed a nistune board ( type 4 is only fit ! ) . Various boost leaks were found and cured , inc. a dud Gizzmo boost controller - It was reported back that my turbo was dropping boost at higher revs , so a new turbo was needed . I suggested that a larger rear turbine wheel and smaller housing was what others were doing with good results and left it with him . Unbeknownst to me he fitted a single T2 RB26DETT turbo and stated 398.9bhp was achieved . Happy with that i drove down again and collected , after pulling out of the 1st turning i knew all was not good - warmed it up after putting in some fuel i attempted to try it again - as i thought ! i had less power slower gear changes and a kick down that was in the post ( so slow ! ) this would not explain the 200bhp loss from a print out piece of paper to the tyres on the road . My mate was following me in his MISFIRING ford focus and was keeping up with me every step of the way !!! He could not believe i was using full throttle as he did not !! The T2 Single RB26DETT turbo has less power and yet a stated 398.9bhp - when i delivered it was around 240bhp with T3 RB25DET AND FASTER INC GEAR CHANGES

by T2 i mean a stock RB26DET SINGLE turbo with Mods to run a forged RB25det 555 injectors stock cams z32 Maf bigger exhaust and fmic idea is to get 400bhp - but not by means of a boost controller . IT WAS !!! was running a T3 hybrid - that - i was told it had boost drop off issues ! and could only run at 240bhp . I !!! suggested that the rear turbine needed changing along with the housing . BUT he said he would put a turbo on that he said would run 400 all day and that he had done this many times . end result is a car that dose not pull any faster than it did running stock ECU !!! IN FACT THE CAR IS SLOWER !! WITH 398.9BHP ??? i DID NOT MENTION THE TUNER !!! as i am not throwing sh1t at anyone without the right info !! AND I dont need a customer who DOSE NOT have an auto S1 Stagea saying he is great and his car runs fine ! that is no comparison .

my tuner seems to think it is ok - but , it needs a boost controller to get 398.9bhp . I have not got an ounce of trust in him anymore and would like to know what others think ! I tried to drive it the other day and it was useless ! he now says that the boost controller was MISS SET ? after he had just set it up !! ?? - Gizzmo M2 why dose he want to use a T2 over a hybrid T3 - ? dose this means that the T2 goint to run at its max ? and therefore will give no more extra power - i have forged pistons so would use 2bar if needed - but dont think it will run on 2bar ? could do with some advise as i think he is not explaining everything .

Just paid a visit to my tuner He has my RB25DET auto with forged pistons / rods / 4" exhaust / steel turbo with Garret internals with china out / FMIC and stock everything else . the turbo is running 0.63 AR turbine side and he could only make 241bhp - then the boost dropped off 1 bar down to 0.6 .. He is sending the turbo to his engineers to convert to 400BHP BUT HE HAS NO IDEA OF WHAT DIMENSIONS WILL BE USED ??? the tuner found some leaks to start with and fixed them - he charged ! - he also charged me double what i was quoted to install the nistune board ! £400 + board - not the £365 inc tune and board fixing quoted by another company !! I have found that asking what system the tuner likes to use is a good start !! as here in UK some do f/con some hate it - all do Nistune . so to sum up in my cas runs .63 turbine housing and is limited to 250bhp at 1bar ! ? ! , i have READ that 0.82 will deliver constant strong boost at higher rpm , but then i will loose some early spool up ( hits 1 bar at 2,650rpm now - good for auto box ) so do I do the obvious and think the turbine wheel needs to be 0.73 to get best of both worlds , or am i wrong and to strengthen the high rev boost pressure is done in another way ??

found the issue - the O ring at the rear of the clutch master cylinder that seals the servo unit to the master cylinder was split in half and so letting air in . Found part of it sticking out of the vacuum pipe that connects to the 1 way valve and then AAC valve . Lucky break as would not have thought of that !

No-eyed Deer - I had never even thought about your bent cam point !! Think i will call the engineer and see what he says - just me being inquisitive . Fitted to the car is an OSGilken multi plate clutch and in traffic if i sit with it depressed in gear it gets hot and will judder when next used ! SO I return to neutral every time i am in traffic with my foot resting on the clutch ready to go . This is when i found the clutch pedal pushing my foot up when i revved the engine . Also the brake servo pipe is SERIOUSLY under pressure / almost solid feeling when the engine is running . I was thinking maybe there is an issue with the AAC valve as the engine rev`s have also increased after refitting the head . Bloody Hicas started to try and kill me today as well , keeps pulsing and trying to correct the steering wheel angle to straight in a bend ?? NOT going to lock out as when it works it is so much faster on the road - have heard that not that good on a track though .

had the head skimmed as was warped ( 0.8" ) on returning to the road I noticed that the brakes were crap and had little effect and the clutch pedal is pushing against my foot when revving and driving ! Any ideas what is wrong ? cheers all

I have JUST ! fitted my HKS FCON GTT R34 Piggy back into the stock S1 Stagea ECU . It works and so far seems that it runs everything OK . So a Nistune board fitted to a GTT ECU SHOULD need no alterations BUT it is never straight forward !! EG I did not connect the extra ECU earth wire to start with !! and the Rev counter spluttered !! - earth fitted and ALL OK . Initially i had 2 pin out diagrams for the GTT and RS4 , they were not the same !!!! - before i cut the 4 wires that were needed i fitted it , AND IT RAN !! So the pin outs stated it was not the same but it was - I have since read that there are 3 ECU`s fitted to the S1 Stagea , i will check what code mine is - for now it is an Hitachi on an RS4 1996 Stagea running RB25DET . the car is booked in to have a tune - this is going to be an experiment as the Tuner says he will attempt to map the stock ECU ( he knows the " you can`t tune saying !! " ) , we will see on the 12th of this month . As for running a NEO engine and not the RB , all i can say is mine is running on all 6 and it is fitted with an Fcon piggy back for a GTT R34 Skyline in an S1 Stagea with an RB engine .......

R32 RB26DETT wondered if anyone recognises what make of piston this is and so what compression rate etc . i have measured the bore and it is 86.66/86.88 average callipers used !! any help gratefully accepted , thanks this is my daily so need it sorted as have to calculate what gasket to use ...

look good , any chance of postage to the UK ?

some nice shots

I like Hicas , when it works it makes life easier in the bends and you can be a bit more aggressive , besides I dont mind `the feeling` others seem not to like , I have yet to get it onto a track and see what the fuss is about !

getting there , defiantly not messing with actual spring ! in steering wheel sensor !! got a consult on it today , and , the steering angle was all out of line , the steering joint that connects the rack to the column looks new so was possibly replaced in the wrong spline ( Hicas boss Fitted but would not align 100% ) explains why the beast wants to power off into the woods ! , like torque steer but 100 times worse . a wire in the fuse block had worked its way out of the rear ( no surprise with all the cutting and feeding off of other wires (( all gone now )) pain in the arse ) and was causing an intermittent fuse fault ! ( eventually blowing and leaving the Hicas light on permanently ) this was found as the consult was found to power off !! the Hicas light with its power feed when it was plugged in ! So you could say all faults down to a fuse but tjhere was a bit more behind it . a 4mm pipe was off the black plastic canister next to the rad ( near side ) . the steering angle is still left 39 and not zero ( will sort at the weekend )( angle goes up to 500 odd ) but the difference on full 400 is amazing !! could almost take hands of the wheel and boot it < worth the hours just for that !!

not tourque steer and launching with over 400bhp aint helping anyone

Went to start car this morning and the Hi-Cas light stayed on , tried to pull away and could hardly move the steering wheel - not as tough as no power steering but still too stiff to drive safely . Over the last month the Hi-as light would flick on and off occasionally , mainly with pot holes and rough road surfaces , on a slow hard right turn the steering wheel would jolt and the Hi-Cas light come on the go off and all was OK . The rear arms and ball joints are new and fluid level ok , there are no oil patches under car and no leaks anywhere . It was tracked months ago BUT under hard right foot the car wants to pull out of a straight line , and launching it just wants to go sideways . Any suggestions or knowledge ( links on this site _ have looked but nothing so far ) this is my daily drive and am stuffed till I get it sorted . Cheers I would rather keep the Hi-Cas as i like it ..

As the title suggests , doing a manual conversion on an RS4 , 33 ECU and wiring - 2WD with gearbox . The Turbo is getting old so i thought with the build a new Turbo would be an idea . Now it will be a manual I am thinking a larger/unrated turbo would be beneficial . I would like to stay with original T3/4 fixings but if that is not a good idea tell me ! Any experience and issues would be a great help .

I heard 560 , nissan kept 60 for racing and the other 500 went on general sale , think rules were same as UK and 500 must be made to qualify for salon car racing ( japan , uk , etc. ) . There is an N1 on sale in USA on ebay , legal !

Riverside .. JDM .. rears have had new outer rims made up as previous owner mashed 1 wheel , and it was impossible to find or make a new rim to match , they are originally pressed not machined and are VERY lightweight , it should have centre caps but they were not supplied .

Knowing Nissans habit of using parts from all models E.G. Stagea/Skyline/S15 suspension , Can anyone tell me if the front lower control arms are the same from R32 or R33 GTR or even Stagea . I've been on the hunt for the nearside arm for the R32 GTR for quite some time now , but can only find r33 gtr arms . They look the same and that leads me to think that they are a match , both have the same ball joints and the arm looks similarly bent and angled . I would crawl under the Stagea but it is under a snow blanket again !

made this to accept Bov and cam cover breather for the uprated turbo and Z32 MAF

KiwiRS4T , no i dont have a pin out diagram but it is 3 rows of pins and has a grey plug and grey receptor in ecu , it is seperted by lugs to locate the plug , 2 lugs 1 side and 3 lugs the other side of the middle fixing screw . Do you know why S2 is different - tiptronic/auto and RB/NEO is the obvious ? 2B honest i am thinking that a piggy back is best , so a pin out diagram would be useful ....

do we know if the long pin plug on the S2 stagea , that goes into the ECU , is the same as R34 / R33 / R32 ? ( longer and blue ) Looks like i have the unique shorter grey pin plug , same as Maxima and Altima ( US market )

UK , need 4WD and dont want to replace tyres every weekend !!!! found a JECS S2 ECU but in Japan and he wants $300 ! , then i would need a nistune board so i may just bite the bullet and wire in Blue greedy ..