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do you have the 10 digit model number on the 32 ECU ? , thanks

Thanks for that , got a Greddy E-manage blue - but did not fancy the wiring ! bugger . z32 MAF seems more popular than the Q45 . in price too . V spec Brembos - piranha discs - project MU pads already fitted SAVED MY LICENCE A few times . Would love to trade up to S2 but I have a 32 GTR as well .. and the cost of an S2 is 3 times what i paid for the S1 + I have fitted fully adjustable suspension and arms front and rear - even with the rust I have become attached to its ugly green arse , front is OK as is Nismo though

If you still have the ecu , is it chippable or Hitachi and do you still have plug and wiring loom .

4WD - Auto ECU ?

As the title says .... It is for my Stagea RS4 , and , as we all know the Hitachi ECU cannot be chipped . I have an E-manage Blue but would prefer to get a standard ECU and chip it to what i have in my engine ( forged internals - larger steel turbo - ETC ) But this means i have to start with an AUTOMATIC 4WD RB25DET Only doner car i can think of is the GTS-T-4 . I would like the main plug as well , as the Stagea is a 1 off size ( poss 300zx is same ?!?! ) I would consider anything though as i just want to get back on road ....

been a while but did you shift the R32 conversion kit for the Stagea ? . Thanks

Is there any way yet to tune or chip an ECU for a S1 Stagea RS4 ? Could a S2 ECU from an R33GTST-4 auto ECU fit ? , both have attessa and both are 4WD Auto , but S1 Stagea ECU CANNOT be Chipped ! . Can S1 or S2 R33 ECU be chipped or Tuned ? , I can get a plug to suit the replacement ECU and wire into the S1 Stagea loom but need to find an ECU with Attessa - Auto and Turbo . I have a Mines S1 NONE Turbo ECU that dose work well on the Turbo S1 Stagea , BUT IT CUTS OUT on deceleration ! bloody dangerous !!! . Any help or suggestions welcome , even thoughts ! Not doing the Manual conversion ! have GTR for that .. would consider the Tiptronic but suspect that wiring ( steering wheel gearchange , etc. ) would be a pain in the rear . Engine will be forged - running steel upgrade turbo - FMIC - 370 flow pump -Adjustable FPR - 475cc injectors .

BIGGER the better !!! Turbo works by feeding exhaust gasses to turbo wheel / turning cold side wheel ..... any back pressure would only slow the gasses or wheel down ! .... AND WE DON`T WANT THAT DO WE

I will be using a torque wrench and not an air gun to build

looks like Q45 is going on ebay then , thanks for input gents

there is a big difference between the RB combustion chamber in the head compared to NEO , NEO is 51cc and RB25 56 . Head only cost 100 bucks so no great loss , Maybe cams will be of use ? who knows ..

86.5 HKS pistons on way = tolerance was on limit in block so bore and hone it is . Can`t find spec on Turbo at the moment ; here`s a picture though Chinese outer with Garret internals - on the hunt for the spec now ....

I am sure this has been discussed on here but finding the thread is near impossible , can anyone point me in the right direction , or give me a quick run down on what is needed block is 4 X 4 RB25 S1 Crank is Std. S1 RB26 with a JUN collar Con rods RB26 uprated Pistons are Std. RB26 .. deciding if i should spend out on forged I have a NEO head that came off a N/A block and wondered if i could use that or just use the solid lifters in the RB25 head , or do i bang the RB25 cam`s onto the Neo head ? I have a bolt on Garret internal Turbo that will be on full chat at about 3,500RPM Q45 MAF Adjustable FPR FMIC is on Greddy Blue E-Manage Am i on the right track ??? any help gratefully accepted

I have 2 after market Turbos and actuators fitted and when running above 1bar 1.5ish! the cooling system spits the dummie and pressurises the water straight out of the plastic water reservoir ? , do I need a larger Radiator or could the water system through the Turbos be fouled/scaled and restricting flow ? It had sat for some time b4 i got and fixed .. the water even though flushed keeps turning that rust colour , I have flushed 5 times now . I have checked the Thermostat and all OK would a lower release thermostat cure the over heating ? it has a metal gasket and good even compression through the 6 . Any hints or suggestions gratefully received , cheers

sorry if old news but cant be bothered to trawl through 18 pages !! not sure if this is listed but series 1 clear front bumper indicators are 1996 Nissan Altima Turn Signals .. ebay USA . a small slither of the location tabs needs filing off and they bolt straight on .

Can you clarify as Series 1 ECU is not mappable - unless the chip or board is changed - or you know something we don`t and i would love to know , I do know that the series 2 Stagea ( NEO engine ) IS mappable . If series 1 is mappable I have 10 customers RIGHT NOW !!!! , i am not also not sure that the series 1 ECU is Nistuneable either !! , Mines will do - but not for units outside Japan !! and the Guy in Australia on ebay dose not list the series 1 for a nistune board . If you know different please let us in on the source ................

could be a cracked or damaged ABS ring on a drive shaft

needs blobs of strong heat proof glue on the small velcro type fixings , carpet spray glue aint no good , just needs a few blobs and done , no need to give $200 bucks to a monkey with some glue !! , prop it up over night with some wood ! , stagea 1 is the same !

1996 series 1 , and you have a 1997 series 2 ? , if so you will need to change ecu and loom ! 97 should be NEO engine ! ?

After buying this GTR with new turbos and an inter cooler half full of oil I have replaced the head gasket and cleaned out the inter cooler . I fitted an N1 oil pump but I did not fit a restrictor for the oil channel to the head , would this `as i have read` cause more pressure in the camshaft area and there fore cause oil to pressure past valves and cause light blue/white smoke / or force more oil vapour into balance tube and turbo`s via the pipe work from the camshaft covers ?. I compression tested engine and all were between 142psi and 162psi . No misfire is pressent ! MMHg ? on boost gauge is 320 on tick over and turbo`s are reconditioned steel new . when warm MMHg is 390 . Anything over 0.5bar and there is a blue smoke screen from the exhaust , i think there is oil trace still left in induction from where the turbo seals went and the inter-cooler half filled with oil .// this was how i brought the GTR ! . When driving normally it dose not smoke with all cam pipes connected , when cam to balance tube is blocked then engine smokes when on half throttle and decelerating ( like valve stem oil seals are gone ) there is also a regular ( every 3 seconds ) air pressure escaping noise coming from under the plenum area ( a high pitched puew noise ) happens on constant throttle and tick over . Could it be the Hi-Cas system as the light flickers on and off under 1.2bar , and the car wants to steer right , could be bushes on subframe i suppose . Is it possible that standing turbos could degrade the seals and they are gone ? Any ideas or suggestions `to the positive` would be most greatfully excepted , Thanks __________________

Can confirm that restrictors are in tubes and marked with a yellow band or dot on the pipe , that`s on a series 1 Stagea , is also used to mark pipes on a 32 GTR - so should be the same for a series 2 Stagea , but , the boost controller and pipes are not your only restriction ! , your actuator is only capable of 10psi ( again series 1 information and so presuming same as series 2 Stagea ) so an adjustable actuator is needed . you may need a fuel cut defender as well , as when the boost goes up so dose fuel consumption and the standard fuel pressure regulator cuts of via a signal to the ECU as it dose not recognise the signal and higher flow of fuel - this results in the engine cutting/stalling and detonation of middle piston rings ... !! .. I HAVE JUST DONE THIS SO KNOW THE PIT FALLS !! Now need a new engine !!! To be honest the best route is a one hit assault on your wallet and Garage = ECU upgrade , aftermarket boost controller , adjustable actuator .... Done !! .. Sort of ! The Mines ECU fitted to another Stagea was the Dogs bollox , made a huge power difference and ran as smooth and economical as standard . You can spend a fortune adapting and upgrading and actually make it worse !! ECU upgrade , aftermarket boost controller , adjustable actuator ... have a think about it

Stay away from gizzmo M2 timer and boost , kin shit unit , went wrong and combined with my foot over boosted and blew a ring in number 2 , STAY THE F AWAY FROM GIZZMO !!! , profec or sbc dual work well

Pm Greenmachine or post here http://stageaownersclub.s4.bizhat.com/login.php Brian aka Greenmachine has had and messed with all Stagea series and knows most things

the rb engine should take 400bhp with std internals - but the ceramic standard turbo can only take 0.75bar , change for steel turbo and 1.2bar is ok , any more and you will need a steel head gasket and forged internals , this is `on the safe side` of boost , you will need a greddy ultimate piggyback or ecu mapping or fuel cut defender , as fuel will cut out cos std ecu will not be programmed to take the extra air flow

you do not need to replace the head studs NISSAN SPECIALIST INFO. , your choice really , in standard form these engines are bullets , 7,500rpm all day long , so just to throw away is daft ! . any garage or mechanic can do a compression test as long as the head is on the engine and you can turn it over with the starter motor . If the head is not warped the compression test will tell you which piston/pistons are mixing your water and oil ( i drove a peugeot 305 to the south of France and back to the uk with oil and water mixing , i changed oil 2 times on the way down and 1 time on the return - flushing the radiator at the same time - over 1,200 miles ) if all pistons have a bad pressure reading , under 100 on the compression tester then things maybe more serious . Any Garage or mechanic can change a head gasket if he has a brain and this service manual file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Ted%20F%20McArthur/Desktop/Nissan%20R34%20Skyline%20Service%20Manual%20Supplement.htm all torque settings and cambelt diagrams are there to follow .. you don`t need a metal gasket if you keep boost under 12psi and bhp under 400 , but it is a good idea for the future and any upgrade plans .