Nic_A31

^^ $$.... Weird grille http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h164522370&thumb=http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/img359.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/4/8/3/5/tamao_21-thumb-1337694294910143.jpg&title= Factory spoiler http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page19.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/x211060806&thumb=http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/f12batchimg.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/5/5/3/5/car_used_articles-thumb-1331620806713219.jpg&title=1809%20A31

You can tell it's a 25 by the inlet manifold, more specifically the water lines (solid) around the bleed point. Still, good stealth spec 25 right there.

Kris is as bad as me. Always saying he's gonna sell his car, but will never end up actually doing it. Good to see it still in the game man. Do believe the 20 did a big end bearing, no ?

Looks pretty mint man I think the front ride height looks about right. Maybe compromise half way, lower the front and raise the rear. If you keep it that low on the rear you're gonna get some rubbing if you try to dial the camber out back towards 0 degree's. The higher it is, the less rubbing there'll be closer to 0 degree's, You got some centre caps for those ?

~$2k~ give or take, won't know the damage until the job is completed. I'm being well looked after.

Cheers man Snapped this pic this arvo. When I mounted it first time, it was a bit off centre. Mainly to get the pipework to line up hassle free. I fiddled some more this afternoon and put it back on centre (well, it's still out by like 10mm or something) Cut out the bottom row of 'vertical bits' to clear the pipework a bit better, and also cleaned up the plastics a bit. Got quoted this afternoon to get all the panel+paint work done. Dropping car off either this weekend or early next week to get following: Front bar resprayed Front lip hopefully fixable (depends what bumper repair guy/plastic welder says) Front Right guard resprayed Stage 21 Side Skirts Stage 21 Rear Bar Rear Right door (dent removal, respray) Front Right door (respray, rust removal)

Got bored last night, so decided to put that FMIC on one way or another. This is the kind of mess I make... Intake side was alright, the exhaust side was a bit of a bitch. I'll cut that piping down when I got some spare time at work next, make it all fit a bit neater. Eventually got it all in there and running. Test drive was as per below picture. Didn't have to cut the reinforcement bar at all. Did have to chop the fan blades down a bit, and the bumper at the bottom. Pipework is a bit wonky, but does the job. Sadly not noticing as much performance gain as I was expecting, but I guess now I'm at the stage where it needs a tune. Front lip has come off. Bumper still a bit bent to get it on over the cooler, so it doesn't sit right. That, and, I've smashed it on my driveway and on a box kerb when I was parking up at the shops, so it's starting to look a little shitty. That'll be getting plastic welded sooner or later and it'll go back on when I get the front bar, guard, and kit sprayed. So, stay tuned for a big cosmetic update.

Does he live in Japan at the moment? Kind of lost. Apparently his car? Photo taken in JP. Profile says he lives in SA.......

Am I the only one who noticed that picture clearly wasn't taken in SA or even Australia....... ?

Must be. When you say GTR SwaybarS The front ones fit as well now?

Sounds like a pile of junk. Worthless. Wouldnt even be worth the effort to bin it all. Should just keep it......

Found this on YahooJP last night. RB26DETT powered and numerous R33 GTR bits thrown onto it. Price is going back in over there. $12'300 for the one above, just for the car, then you gotta add freight, compliance, etc.

Looking good man. Bit filthy but definitely heaps of potential there. Keen for updates!!

Still love it like the day I installed it man.

It's not that cops are laid back, it's just that, if I ever am asked to "pop the hood", there's 11 billion very valid reasons for them to start writing up a yellow sticker, starting with "RB20E...RB25DET, not same same - get that shit rego'd" If I'm going down, I'm going down hard. The plan is to create a list soo big, that the dude at the pits will be like "look, this is f**king crazy, there aren't enough hours in the day for me to check all of this just, fix all the illegal shit and come back"

I dug up one of these brackets that came with one of the numerous RB25 turbo's I've bought over the years. Stripped it down to bare metal I did paint it black, but, those photo's didn't turn up on my SD card for some reason. A bit of this stuff I cut the base plate off another bracket, and used that with some threaded rod, nuts and washers to tighten it down, to create: Boost controller is sitll in plain sight, which I suppose isn't the aim of the game, but it's easy to get to, and that shit's bolted down proper. What do y'all think?

So, my dude's next container arrived. Trust twin pipes still in Japan Body kit that I ordered and still haven't received the bill for, was in the container though.... Did receive: Trust downpipe Late model floor mats. TurboTech Performance V2 Boost Controller arrived (3 weeks later) Would definitely recommend these to anyone and everyone. Holds boost way better than any electronic controller ever will. Got some spare time today, so I chucked on the Trust downpipe and an unknown brand stainless split dump. There's a sort of decent increase in diameter size. Wank factor pic. Sounds pretty much same same, a tad louder. Probably same volume as the RB20 was. Performance is definitely up a bit, boost comes up a bit quicker and smoother, and climbs through mid/high revs quicker as well Skanked up the engine bay a bit last week

20's dont use a consult plug. Diagnostics are done via that LED. http://www.motorswap...thread.php?t=62

Sounds like normal A31/C33 factory turbo ECU. Fuel map has several lean/rich spots. R32 GTST ECU doesn't to have the same problem. 32's were also tuned for about 5kw more from factory. Dan_J can spill more info about that.

How many cars do you have exactly....it total?

Did you guys think I was f**king around? Chuck headlights in oven, don't go overboard, just hot enough to break down glue, put clear cover onto brick headlights, probably good idea to clean off old glue and put some new stuff on there. Ta daa! Although finding non projector headlights is a mix of time, price and luck, just in itself.

Skiiiilllsss

You buy a set of each, lock them in a room together, turn the lights off, play some slow jazz, and hope for the best.

No no, on paper, like all JJR products, they're high quality mad shit, but the word around the scene is they last 5'000kms to 10'000kms. Although on that note, most people tighten the bolts up as hard as they possibly can...probably what burns out the bearings. I think they're $300something pair aftermarket, or $200 each OEM for front bearings, but don't quote me on saying that. Still a modification I'd recommend to any Cefiro/Laurel owner for sure.

Was starting to hear a harsh scraping sound at low speeds, gradually became louder. First thought was low brake pads/rotors, but then I kind of got my head around the idea that maybe, finally, the shithouse bearings on the JJR hubs had finally thrown in the towel, since they last about 10'000km max. Brakes were getting a bit low anyway, and I'd already bought pads, so I swapped out my rotors for another set, got mine machined, and after about half an hour of looking around my house, shed, room, and in both cars, I found the brake pads I'd picked up ages ago. Did work at my own house (gravel driveway), and took my sweet ass time. Was a royal PITA trying to get the pistons in the calipers to retract to fit the new pads over the rotors. Found the source of that scraping sound too. The other 7 pads were fine, at around 25% Finished last corner after about 2 hours. Ran pads in at local industrial area. They're pretty damn noisy between 15kmp/h and 0, but pedal feels twice as good as it did with standard Sumitomo pads. JJR wheel bearings are still in tip top condition, 35'000kms and still going strong! New world record!