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Nic_A31

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Everything posted by Nic_A31

  1. I can take some tomorrow if you like, or just give me a holla on Sunday if you're at Barbagallo Drift Assault, I'll show you there.
  2. R34 has the feed nipple on the elbow. R33 has it on the intercooler pipe. I just drilled a hole, and used an old feed fitting to tap the thread. Bit dodgey. I think mine leaks a bit now.
  3. Yeah, but if youre not confident, a mobile thread repair guy could do it pretty cheap.
  4. You need to tap and drill a provision for the wastegate actuator feed.
  5. Yes but pay someone to do it for you. They'll chop the following plugs and merge them into the 25 loom 4 pin 12v power window wiper motor 2/3x dash plugs They'll also rig up your fuel pump relay and shit, merge up some ground wires, etc. Then you pick up your 'a31 rb25' loom, plug it in, and rip a mad wet weather skid.
  6. You should have kept the loom for the original motor, hack the plugs off that and put it onto the 25 loom.
  7. series 2/3 loom still has different dash plugs. R32 didn't have a consult port anyway though, did it?
  8. Different plugs for the dash loom, and Cefiro/Laurel draws 12v power from a 4 pin plug near the AFM.
  9. haha, might have dropped a zero in there somewhere. Looks spankin' hot though.
  10. Rose-jointed needs to be engineered as well if you've got aftermarket tie-rod ends.
  11. Dan you've never posted pics of your car, ever. Get onto that, so we can pass judgement upon you.
  12. Faaaark dude, every picture I've seen up until now (excluding that first picture, rubber all over the shop), I'd thought your car was 100% mint, every panel straight. Ah well, 1 flaw doesnt hurt.
  13. What in God's name have you done to your guards??
  14. Well, that sheet of vinyl, was something like 1000x1500 mm, and it was about $50 delivered (eBay). Pretty easy to fit, the only hard part was the C pillar, I had to dig up the Cefiro badge I ripped off my old door before I scrapped it, used it as a trace to cut that double-circle shape out of the vinyl, then layed it down.
  15. R34 turbo. Yep, self cancelling FTW, I thought all boss kits did that ... No clue why anyone uses deep dish at all on Ceffy/Laurel, since you can just adjust the column, and bring the steering wheel closer. But, it does look pretty sick. Done some cosmetics, see below. Gloss black vinyl on B and C pillars on the doors. Shields back on. Some stickers - stickers are cool. More stickers are coming. Interior shot. Exhaust fixed up.
  16. Nothing. I got a Laurel halfcut (20DET) and it plugged straight in and ran no worries in my Cefiro (originally 20E)
  17. Have you tried Cartel ? http://shop.cartel-aus.com/
  18. Well the stock arms don't have ball joints like the HICAS systems do. I got a non-HICAS cradle with arms but they weren't connected. The difficulty I had was getting the bolts for both ends of the arm in. Basically, throw the adjustable bolt in on the cradle end, loosen all the bolts for the other arms (upper control, traction, etc) at the knuckle, then flex/twist the knuckle back, bolt the other end of the toe arm up, then tighten all the bolts up. If you've got a mate helping, don't worry about loosening all the other bolts, just get him to push the rear end of the knuckle back towards the cradle while you put the bolt through. Trying to do the job solo was a bitch. Any suspension mob should be able to do the boots for your shafts, drop off and pick up.
  19. Have you tried an Eastern States supplier? That will fit in a 1kg overnight airbag, delivered before 12:00 next day, usually before 10:00 ....
  20. It's putting them back in that's the hard part. Extreme Pain In The Ass.
  21. Awesome shot of my daily taken today, and me reppin' the Five Finger Death Punch merch Credits: Epidemik Perth
  22. HICAS does have a few extra lines. You can just block the 2 extra fittings on the rack for HICAS and use that rack.
  23. Why do you need adjustable toe arms? The factory ones are adjustable to a small extent (they use an off centre bolt on the cradle end of the arm, the bolt itself and the cradle is marked, and it gives you a couple (maybe more) degrees of adjustment either way. Unless you don't have standard arms with the cradle I don't see why you need adjustables. Also, you do NOT want to be doing the cradle high up on a hoist. With standard bushes, it's designed to be a tight fit (you usually need to get a huge screwdriver and bend the bush a bit to slot it onto the bolt on the floorpan), with any kind of aftermarket bushes (presumably a lot stiffer) it's going to be a million times harder, even with the diff out of the cradle. You can take all the arms off to help out with the weight, but it's still an awkward shape and won't be easy, and then once the cradle is mounted, the arms are harder to get back on (some bolts on the cradle end are very crowded) Much easier to use 2+ floorjacks and get a mate to help you out. My $0.02
  24. Correct me if I'm wrong, but even the non-turbo R34s came with 5 stud hubs, yes? So, this guy actually went to the extent of tracking down R32/R33 N/A hubs, just to turn it into a shitter??
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