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Nic_A31

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Everything posted by Nic_A31

  1. Cool, I'll have a look at my tail lights and see how mine are looking. Do you have factory fitted taillights? I swapped mine out for Series 2, never had the leak with S1 and the first 12 months or so of having S2, but I didn't re-glue them or anything, so I might try that now.... Here's my Nissan invoice - see below. Disregard the top line, that's an oil dipstick for my RB25DET. Line 2 is the cups, you'll need 6 of them Line 3 is the clips, you'll need 6 also Line 4 is the cup for the exact centre which uses a screw instead of a clip, need 1 only
  2. I don't understand.... ...what f**king color is it? yellow? or orange? Boss wheel fitment though, R33 GT-R awww yeah! Match up the bonnet and that'll look killer!!
  3. The car will only lock the passenger doors, not the drivers side....so, the safest place for your girlfriends hair is probably in your lap....just saying.... Why was her hair near the lock anyway? that's a mile away from the headrest.....
  4. Sorry for the late reply, you've probably fixed yours by now, by just in case/for anyone that hasn't yet, here's pics from mine. -Remove your window wipers. They're marked 'D' and 'A', D is driver's side, A is passenger side. -Remove the bottom row of clips that go along the firewall and keep the clips with the rubber seal. Just put a flat head screwdriver underneath the plastic tray at each clip point and gently push up, the clips should stay inside the rubber seal, if they come out, it's not too hard to put them back in. -Remove the top row of clips and the centre screw. They look like screws but they actually aren't - the one in the exact centre IS a screw, the rest are clips similar to the front.Use the same method as the bottom row, but push the screwdriver/whatever you're prying with in a little further, don't try doing it from the top because you risk scratching or breaking the windshield and/or the plastic tray. That should free the tray up, get that out of the way and you'll see the seals These are all the same, the one in the middle is a different shape. It's only the 2 on the far left hand side that are responsible for letting water inside, as they don't drop into the gutter, the rest of the clips drain into the gutter and go down the A pillar into the wheel arches. pop the new seals in Pop the tray and clips in (I bought new clips as well) Wipers back on, and if you roll like I do, don't forget to put all your spare parts up under the wipers for those roadside emergencies Took me about 10-15 mins job done. I can't remember the exact cost off the top of my head, I bought double of everything so I can do this to my other Cef as well, and I think it was roughly $50 all up, so say $25 to do all seals and new top row clips. Worth every cent. Kind of a pain in the ass but its shit like this that keeps our cars on the road and out of scrap metal yards. Parts were in stock at a Nissan dealer here in Perth, If anyone needs part numbers, PM me and I'll dig up the invoice.
  5. It's a factory feature, it's not a fault & it's not constantly firing, the master unit for the central locking detects when the locks actuate and will try to lock them again. They won't 'wear down' over time because of this. If anything, trying to manually unlock the door while moving will wear our parts, hitting the button on the driver's door probably doesn't do much good either. I know of one dude that ended up with a bent door lock actuator rod from a passenger trying to constantly override it. Central locking is controlled by the passenger side power window switch (it's built in) Other than removing your speedo, or removing your central locking and/or passenger's power window switch, I don't know of any way to remove it. You could get someone else to drive, , unplug the passenger window switch and use a multimeter to look for a signal that comes on around 10kmp/h (often 15 or 20kmp/h with older/stretched speedo cables), theoretically there's a wire off the dash that triggers something inside that switch to lock all the doors. Don't know if it's a simple as cutting one or two wires and if that'll cause other issues, but if you're that desperate to get rid of it, it's worth a shot.
  6. OEM Cefiro/Laurel side mount intercooler, comes with both mounting brackets, pipework, joiners, etc. $150 Cefiro cornering lights for front bumper $50 Cefiro/Laurel CD player brackets $20 Cefiro/Laurle manual centre console lid, retrimmed in black suede (by myself) $30 Located Perth, WA Happy to post at buyers expense Pics on request
  7. Straightened up my FMIC, long overdue Ordered a genuine OMP button since the one that came with the knock-off popped off (twice) Dash cluster was getting a bit dull compared to the boost gauge and CD player which don't dimm down, so I threw in some blue LEDs Gotta work out how I can boost up the light a bit on the A/C and the Laurel analog clock and, unfortunately, f**ked the rear bar trying to get off my lawn pretty pissed but shit happens, bar needed modifying anyway, so it's cable tie stitched in the mean time.
  8. 1 for Penrite Warm up times is subject to much debate, lol. As the guys have said, give it a minute or two to get some oil pressure, but also ease the box and diff in as well. When I was daily-ing my Cefiro, I'd start the car, chuck my bag, phone, wallet etc on passenger seat, jump in, find some tunes/check Facebook, that'd kill about a minute or so, then roll it out the driveway, pop it into second and idle down my street (about 100-200 metres @ 20-30ish kmph??), then be gentle and stick below 2500rpm for the next couple of backstreets, then keep it under 4000rpm, then by the time I hit the highway it was up to temp.
  9. Cheers fellas Sure does feel good to get her back on the road. Serviced it, changed front hubs, and put in a new genuine Nissan speedo cable (no more speedo wobbles at low speeds, and much more accurate at high speeds ) Exhaust leak I might do next week, but I need to get a stud drilled out, otherwise I'll put it off until I do the turbo. Went out on Sunday afternoon with a mate to snap some pics of his 1JZ powered Supra, I got a few decent shots, but I've um...only uploaded these 2 onto FlickR, if you know what I mean.... DSC_9563 by Nic_A31, on Flickr DSC_9568a by Nic_A31, on Flickr
  10. f**k me dead. Good turn around there. Good to see pics in that order for a change rather than the other way round...
  11. You could weld a long bolt onto it and turn that, it'd be pretty tricky trying to get a bead onto it though, and no garuantee it wouldn't just snap straight off, but worth a shot.
  12. Well it's been a while. My regular supplier dude gave me a GT-R engine bay loom for free as long as I removed it myself. 1-2 hours a day over a few weeks, I extended the Cefiro loom about 800mm, cutting it where it rubbed through. One by one, my soldering as already pretty decent to start with but I'm a f**king pro now. Finished a 100g roll of solder and got maybe halfway through a second one before the job was over. This is about a third of the mess I had by the end of it Never consumed soo much Monster/Red Bull/Iced Coffee in such a short period of time... and if my neighbors didn't like my taste in music, they certainly did before I was finished. I marked the modified section in red and black, just incase any future owners of this thing need to open that section of wiring, they know not to trust wire colors, I matched about 80-90% of the loom, but some colors and gauges weren't on the GT-R loom so I used as close a color as I could, or a completely different color when I had no choice. All done now and she's back on the road. I was actually thinking about finally putting it up for sale, but after driving it around for a bit, I quickly dismissed such nonsense. Before I even got to the door at the service station I got a comment from some guy about it, then getting out onto the main roads and opening it up, fwaaaa, bliss. It's still a major pain in the ass, I need to swap the hubs back over tomorrow so I've got new wheel bearings I need to service it, I need to fix an exhaust leak, I need to change the speedo cable the list goes on. Keeping the Honda now, so I can do some more work on this thing, plans: high-flowed turbo PowerFC + tune Clutch thinking about reverting to R32 calipers and getting dogbone spacers to go out to 330mm F / 300mm R, my 296mm R33 rotors don't have long left on them now, so I need to work that one out. For around $750 I can get 4x spacers, 4x rotors, a BM-5x BMC, and braided brake lines (separately) My mate's nagging me to get into drifting with him, and I probably will, just depends how my $$ situation is looking, I'll post up some pics and GoPro footage of my failings as they occur....
  13. I figured you were joking but fuuck, don't even suggest that shit
  14. Do NOT use a bigger fuse, for f**k's sake.....
  15. So we spend a lot of time rambling on about our Cefiros/Laurels/other vehicles with 4 doors for more whores, but what are we all driving every day to work and back, to the shops, etc. I'll start. This is my main weapon. I picked this up around March I think, and has replaced my white Cefiro as my daily thrasher. '99 Honda Civic Non-VTEC, manual, stock standard 1.6 litre monster! uses f**k-all fuel Anything less than a couple of KMs from my house, I usually use this, although I have done longer distances (~10+kms) a couple of times. Diamondback Viper 20" Done some mods to this, but with a fixed 25-to-16 ratio, I usually opt for driving instead. So, 4-door community, what are you rolling around in/on when not in the Ceffy/Laurel/Other 4-door
  16. Yeah that's what I meant, on the rear windshield Mine's at the top but from memory the late model A31s rocked a third brake light at the bottom? I'll confirm that though, and I'll take some pics of my rear windshield and sunroof glass tomorrow to show you what I mean.
  17. Looks like it clips into place on the inside of the windshield. One of mine has similar but it's just a big sticker thats layed onto the glass, same with the sunroof.
  18. C33 Club S front bar + lip http://page12.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p348689353
  19. I've had both those issues before. I'm not sure about the boot, I noticed there's a lot more water build up when it rains, so I'd guess it's the boot lid seal. Sunroof open or closed made no difference so it's not the sunroof drain pipes. I just leave the grommet off and let water drain out as it comes in...I'll work it out one day haha. Interior front, check that it's not coolant first, that'll be your A/C core, that's a dash out job, I thought that's what mine was, but its actually the seals and rubber cups underneath that black plastic gutter thing on top of the firewall. Pop that off and you'll see maybe a dozen across the top of the firewall, mine were dried out and letting water in via those little holes. I can't remember the price but it was pretty cheap to buy the whole lot from Nissan. If you want more info, part numbers, or pics, just let me know.
  20. You know those days you're soo happy to see the postman on your doorstep that you try to kiss him....or is that just me.... ?? Dem CR KAI decals
  21. Not sure if I'll like the wheels but def keen for pics hahaha
  22. Mostly Yahoo, a little of local as well. With the YahooAuctions stuff, I use Google Chrome to translate the pages to English and a local business lays down the bids for me, ships them to his own yard and gets it put into his containers. Usually cheaper than buying local, always ALWAYS in better condition though. GT-R seats are mint, the build date on the stamps on the CR Kai's is 08/08/2012 and all 4 are perfect.
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