Nic_A31

Owner must be named and shamed. Grab your pitchforks and put the word out!

Left front a/c vent trim - which one ? If you mean the surrounding trim for the far left big AC vent facing the passenger, don't bother. Of all the Ceffies I've seen in the flesh and in pics, I've seen a total of 3 intact trims. These are extremely rare, and renound for breaking (the equivalent part on C33 laurels is the same). Just mock something up with a bit of DIY lovin' Right front sun sensor cover - I've got a couple in my shed, the clips are broken, but from experience, you can just leave them sitting in their recess on the dash, they don't slide out, even under hard acceleration/cornering, you can't even hear any rattling. both front vents on dash - again which ones? pics?? I've still got most of my Cefiro dash parts from when I put a Laurel dash into mine. drivers side (right side) front corner light - I've got a pair of these, I want to hold onto them until my front bar arrives from Japan (mid-OCT), after that, more than happy to sell. Speedo cable - Don't know about your Nissan parts availability over there, but here in Aus they're ~~$130.00 new, genuine Nissan Parts, it's the same cable as R32 Skyline and probably alot of other Nissans from the same era. both sun-visors and the bottons that connect to it, (there are tabs that they screw into the trim, grey color) - I used to have a J30 Maxima, and remember these being exactly the same (just a different color), same applies for various other roof trims. hit up Maxima.org or the local wrecker. As for your electrical parts/window regs, see if you can't get them repaired locally first, these aren't easy to find to start with, and they'll only get harder to find, even if you get a second hand one, it'll likely bump into the same problems further down the track. My driver's side power window switch is on the way out, I put this switch in 2 years ago after the last one threw in the towel.

Use this to find the perfect balance http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

Get your Facebook stalker on... http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=434045009970631&set=a.204789542896180.46353.129303667111435&type=1&theater

Personally don't like it but some of you lot will fap.

Run these guys an inquiry. The CF one doesn't state if it's 2-door or 4-door. http://www.vivagarage.com.au/vivastore/index.php/nissan/skyline-r33-gts-gtst/spoiler.html

What's the offset on the 7.5's ? Any pics showing the current wheel fitment ? +38 is still a rather high offset even for an 8" wide rim.

You want more like +30 offset,at +40 they'll probably rub on the spring on the front.

Had this problem the other night, my headlights were stuck on highbeams as soon as I turned them onto any setting. Isolated the problem to the brown box thing? between the radiator and the battery. Removed that, and since have no auto headlights, that's cool, but I got my running lights and interior/dash lights back (all on the same circuit), and my headlights worked normally, as did high beams (ie only came on when selected). No drama's for the next couple of days but now the fuse for interior/running lights keeps blowing. Any idea's on where I should start looking?? Have noooo idea.

I once said exactly the same thing, and I'd bet we're not the only 2 people that have said it.

Click the links to the FB albums

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=270478056400816&set=a.270456343069654.64386.245497482232207&type=1&comment_id=460121&ref=notif&notif_t=comment_mention&theater

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.3080403068968.103191.1830549980&type=1

Replace it. Other welds all over the subframe won't be too far behind with rusting out.

I think Toffy is talking about the 20s and if he is I'd agree with him. Those Volks in the first post, f**k yea!

Ouch!!

Pic of new panel section welded in and primed.

This will all be done stealth spec. prior to rego. and hopefully stay off the engineer's attention. And we don't have RWC over here. Rego car, pay rego each year, that's it. Only time you need to get inspection is when unregistered or to get a red/yellow sticker off. Anyway, tonight, mate dropped off tailshaft and gearbox crossmember to suit 25 box A31, pretty stoked. Slowly but surely.

Hey dudes, This did once upon-a-time have another thread here, but I figured I'd start a new one, given the new course this is heading. Some of you will recognize this vehicle, I picked up when I was 19 or 20. I got it shipped to WA, and was intending to just clean up the 20DET, paint the inside of the door jambs, engine bay, etc black, get the car sprayed, then register it and be done. I did crack the shits with the car more than once due due to various reasons (uncertainty about the chassis integrity, peer pressure & personal problems) Around April 2010 I bought what is now my daily driver, and that was largely responsible for me barely even looking at this car over the last 2 years. Most aftermarket parts I bought for this bigger project were stripped off it in desperate bids to keep the other one up to scratch. 2012 was a pretty smooth year, the motor blew around January, as soon as the 25DET went it, it was smooth sailing, and after a decent sized panel and paint job on it, I can confidently say that car is "finished". I've been spending a bit more time on this one the last couple of months. Don't mind the mess, it's been hiding for 24 months. Most of that shit was in/on the car. Genuine works on the rear make up for the...whatever they are on the front. The engine bay is entirely stripped out, and has been for some time. I've been cleaning up some surface rust, removing glue between panels, other bits n pieces. HICAS has been completely removed, as have HICAS+fuel lines and the rear cradle. I dropped the cradle about a year and a half ago, and pulled the diff out. Turned out to be a Tomei, and is now in my daily. It's 5 stud hubs and R33 brakes also went onto the daily, so it's rolling on 4 stud at the moment. I've got 5 stud hubs on the way from Japan, along with a set of R33 Brembo's Basic breakdown of plan. Powerplant/drivetrain RB26DETT R33 gearbox R32 GT-R rear cradle Keeping with the standard twin turbo's, at least until it's engineered and registered with the 2.6L, then I might up it to a medium single. Usual mods under the bonnet, magic mushrooms, solid intake, up the boost, 32 GT-R FMIC, coilpacks, out some kind of aftermarket dump pipes, down pipe, high flow cat and into these. Yep, they rocked up from Japan a few weeks ago, rear hanger has been modified to poke the tips out at a wider angle Haven't had the time of daylight to take some pictures of it here yet. Interior R34 GT-R Seats C33 Laurel Dash Gauges (boost + oil press. visible full time, water temp, oil temp, and wideband in the glovebox for the few occasions I'll actually need to look at them) Bodywork Old sections of chassis rails chopped out, new sections welded in Sodablast / wallnut shell blast, inside and out Full respray inside and out, probably Deep Blue Pearl (R35 GT-R) Mixed body kit (TBO 1 front bar, Autech side skirts and rear bar) with a similar two-tonne scheme to what I had done to my other Cef. Big bunch of parts (interior, grille, hubs, air cond.) + kit + brembo's on due in Mid-Oct/2012, around the halfway mark of tracking down all the little fiddly shit I need to finish her off. I've loosely bolted all the panels back onto it, and it's rolling on bare-essential suspension (very difficult to roll when there's no castor rods on either end and steering rack isn't bolt down very well), I'll probably relocate it again soon, put a bunch of parts into storage, finish stripping the interior, then it'll be time to blast it, then panel and paint, then onto running gear. I've written a 4.5 page "budget" / List of things I need to finish her off to the goal I'm aiming for, and the pricelist came in at $25'000 - $30'000, so, very long road ahead (that includes some parts I've already bought, ~$7k panel and paint work, $7k on motor, box, mods, etc, new windshield, brand new semi moving parts (master and slave cylinders), etc etc) Got a few bits of paper to fill out for engineering / rego process with the 26DETT. That's pretty much it for the entry post. I did some work on it the last couple of nights. This is how the intercooler piping inlet/outlet section was cut when I first got the car. Very sloppy. I cut that section out from my Laurel halfcut (factory turbo), and got a mate to MIG weld it in. It needs some bog to fill in the areas too big to fill with the welder, but that's easy. It's all lined up where it should be (used the fasteners on both panels to line it up before welding, tacked it in, then trimmed it down again) I did have a pic just of that area after priming to give you a better idea, but my SD card is being difficult again. Finally here is a pic of the engine bay. Don't mind all the runny primer, I've only been sanding back area's to clean rust and other funky shit, then spraying rattle can stuff straight over the top. Haven't found that much rust in there though, there was a fair bit under the brake master cylinder, as you'd expect. None on the batter tray It'll all go back to bare metal before it gets sprayed. Bedroom and shed are filling up with parts pretty quickly, I'll keep you guys posted on progress as it slowly happens.

Yep that's a series 2. A nice one at that

You polished it, didn't you?

R33, not R32

Are they same as A31/C33? Weird that R32 and R33 are exactly the same, considering the heater hoses are different sizes between RB20 and RB25

She's a bit rough, dunno if some TLC will get the scratches out. I'll say $40 delivered (registered). PM me if you want more pics.